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Capacitor


Killion22

Active Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2008
Messages
26
City
Yamhill, Oregon
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
:icon_bounceblue:This might be a dumb question... but why would one need to put a power capicitor in their audio system? I have a 900 Watt amp, and a 550 watt sub. What would it do for it?
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Last edited:
i cant find the article that explains how capacitors work. i wouldnt use one. if your having power consumption issues you sould look into upgrading the big 3. or even getting a bigger battery.
 
Thanks... I don't have any problems with it draining anything. My lights dont dim or anything... The amp provides plenty of power.
 
Even if your lights don't dim a capacitor "reacts MUCH faster than your battery or alternator can.

It's about the ability to DUMP energy in microseconds.

Even bigger cables and multiple batteries won't do what a capacitor will

They might not help, but certainly won't hurt.... except your wallet if you overpay.
 
Even if your lights don't dim a capacitor "reacts MUCH faster than your battery or alternator can.

It's about the ability to DUMP energy in microseconds.

Even bigger cables and multiple batteries won't do what a capacitor will

They might not help, but certainly won't hurt.... except your wallet if you overpay.

i put a 1 farad (fairly small) in my set up. made a huge difference on how psychotic my battery needle went, and my lights didnt dim any more. only paid $20 for it too, bought it from a friend.
 
A flux capacitor, 88mph, hmm.... is just might work!

88? that doesnt sound right...i thought it was like 83 or 86 or something....its been a while.

i vote that caps are band-aids. they may dump energy faster than your battery, but its nothing that is going to improve a well set-up and properly fed "average joe" system.
 
88? that doesnt sound right...i thought it was like 83 or 86 or something....its been a while.

i vote that caps are band-aids. they may dump energy faster than your battery, but its nothing that is going to improve a well set-up and properly fed "average joe" system.


the discussion wasn't about "average joe" audio systems

so your your "fact (and opinion) is irrelevant and uncoordinated.

There is nothing "Band-aid" about it, I've had a vehicle with FOUR batteries
(two under the hood, wo larger "aux" batteries in the back and a Diesel engine with a 150amp alternator and frankly the capacitor still made a difference.... but in my case it wasn't an audio system, but rather a fairly powerful radio transmitter.

What everyone here who talks down at adding a capacitor is simply
ignorant (lacking knowledge) of the facts.

Batteries store energy chemically they cannot react to load
events lasting milliseconds.

Alternators have voltage regulators that also can't react fast,
(particularly when the alternator is being turned by an engine
at idle speed.
a capacitor can in some cases can react in MICROseconds
MILLIONTHS of a second and they can dump ALL their energy
in one big spark a battery cannot come close to that

Basically it smooths out the dips and absorbs the spikes.

In a way it kinda acts like a shock absorber between the electrical system and what ever device you are running off it.

MOST things don't notice those spikes and dips.

Audio systems and two-way radios do.

AD
 
88? that doesnt sound right...i thought it was like 83 or 86 or something....its been a while.

i vote that caps are band-aids. they may dump energy faster than your battery, but its nothing that is going to improve a well set-up and properly fed "average joe" system.
you my friend must really like dumping money into alternators, like AllanD said, when you have an event that lasts milliseconds you need all the juice you can get, and when you constantly have to draw that extra juice from your alternator or battery it will prematurely wear those components out. the "cap" depending on size, stores between 18 and 20 volts, which is isolated from the rest of the vehicles voltage needs so that when you listen to music with alot of bass it gives your amp a little somethin-somethin to draw off of without puting undo strain on your charging system.:icon_thumby:i might also add that a 900 watt amp is not exactly an "average joe" system. my first recommendation is to put at least a '100 amp' fuse inline at the battery and use at least 4-6 gauge power wire with the same size for ground, keeping your ground as short as possible for the best thump. when you wire the "cap" charge according to directions, then ground to the same location as your amp, run your main power feed to another fuse, at least 50 amp, then to positve side of "cap" then from positive side of "cap" to amp:icon_thumby:
 
the discussion wasn't about "average joe" audio systems

so your your "fact (and opinion) is irrelevant and uncoordinated.

There is nothing "Band-aid" about it, I've had a vehicle with FOUR batteries
(two under the hood, wo larger "aux" batteries in the back and a Diesel engine with a 150amp alternator and frankly the capacitor still made a difference.... but in my case it wasn't an audio system, but rather a fairly powerful radio transmitter.

What everyone here who talks down at adding a capacitor is simply
ignorant (lacking knowledge) of the facts.

Batteries store energy chemically they cannot react to load
events lasting milliseconds.

Alternators have voltage regulators that also can't react fast,
(particularly when the alternator is being turned by an engine
at idle speed.
a capacitor can in some cases can react in MICROseconds
MILLIONTHS of a second and they can dump ALL their energy
in one big spark a battery cannot come close to that

Basically it smooths out the dips and absorbs the spikes.

In a way it kinda acts like a shock absorber between the electrical system and what ever device you are running off it.

MOST things don't notice those spikes and dips.

Audio systems and two-way radios do.

AD



Finally someone who knows what they are talking about....
 
If I didn't the FCC would probably take my license away:)

there are many devices that can't work without a capacitor.

High powered AC electric motors, flourescent lights, your IGNITION system!

AD
 
so your your "fact (and opinion) is irrelevant and uncoordinated.

it was my opinion, not a fact.

so your your "fact (and opinion) is irrelevant and
There is nothing "Band-aid" about it, I've had a vehicle with FOUR batteries
(two under the hood, wo larger "aux" batteries in the back and a Diesel engine with a 150amp alternator

that sounds a little critical to be called "average joe".

im running a total of 600 watts in my truck without a cap. my amp is fed by 4/0 awg welding cable. i can make my dome light dim ever so slightly at night if i have my heater blower and headlights on and i dont focus my eyes at the light.

i might also add that ive been running the same (i believe its the original '93) alternator and orbital battery for the entire 5 years ive had my system and havnt had any longevity problems (of coarse, this is only one example out of many that ive expirienced).

ive worked at 3 different shops that install stereos and ive heard numorous systems with and without their caps and its my solid opinion that the money can be better spent elsewhere. im not denying that they help your system, because they do. but you could get a lot more "bang for your buck" elsewhere.
 

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