can't get bleeder valves loose

[upnorthdad]

Hi,
put on the new master cylinder but 2 of the 4 brakes have very badly rusted bleeder valves and I can't get them loose to finish bleeding the system... I don't want to buy a new caliper just because I can't get the valve loose.... I will need to get new bleeder valves which is fine... even the vise grip does nothing....
Thanks Dave

 

[ghost_rader]

what i have done in the past is apply some heat to the bleeder, but be careful as to not get the caliper too hot, you will melt the seals you can use a propane torch,
oh and the brake fluid will boil and spit once you get it loose ... good luck

 

[Crunchy]

Or you can ask yourself, if messing with your bleeder for hours on end outweighs the $30 a rebuilt caliper would cost after you return your old core? I'd just get new ones.

 

[Psychopete]

Or you can ask yourself, if messing with your bleeder for hours on end outweighs the $30 a rebuilt caliper would cost after you return your old core? I'd just get new ones.

+1

I have a very small patience for those. I might take 10-15 minutes trying to get it loose, and before I know it, I snapped it. Never had issues getting a grip on them, but I've never tried to use a set of vise grips for this particular job. I just used the approperiate sized deep well socket - 1/4" drive. If it's THAT rusty where you did something similar and it stripped the hex out, I wish you the best of luck getting that out. IMO, It should have snapped before that happened..

Ran into this not too long ago on my Tempo, one caliper was already sized and I busted the passenger size trying to bleed the system. I am a sissy when it comes to heating anything that has rubber near by. Fortunately I was able to get the bleeders on the rear wheel cylinders.

Pete

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

not to mention, the rust didnt stop at the bleeder. theres a good shance the cylinder, piston, caliper slides, and other important moving parts of the caliper are rusted and ready to stick and cause you greif in a very short time.

replace the calipers and be done with this project....unless you like putting your truck up on jackstands....

 

[upnorthdad]

we're thinking the same

I just called the auto parts store to see if the caliper and back cylinder were in stock.... I don't see these valves coming lose anytime soon.... it is so rusted.... I just hope now I can get the brake line of the cylinder....
Thanks Dave

 

[Capt Jay]

Add a little heat AROUND the bleeder. Your trying to make the metal expand and let the bleeder move. Then put a 6 point wrench on it and give it a quick little rap with a hammer. It works a lot better than trying constant pressure with Vise-grips. All it has to do is move a little before it frees up. Hope that helps. It should work (99%).

 

[MAKG]

A rusted bleeder is VERY likely to accompany rusted internals.

It's a $30 caliper and a $15 wheel cylinder. Replace them ALL.

If the lines are so rusted they break, replace them. But to prevent that, try some Kroil and use a properly sized line wrench (NEVER an open end wrench).

 

[Mark_88]

Good thing you're not in Canada...I paid over $100 each for the calipers...the back end was cheaper...only $20 per cylinder...if you have to replace the lines you might be able to get away with the section to the splitter on the axel on the rears...I ended up replacing them all and was much happier...brake lines are fairly inexpensive and if you get a flaring tool it makes custom cutting a breeze...

You can patch lines, but not recommended at all...

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

a properly sized line wrench (NEVER an open end wrench).

+20!

everyone save yourselves the trouble now and go buy a set of line wrenches. i got an el-cheapo set from napa for like $15...one of the first "specialty" tools i ever bought back in the day, and by far one of the best investments ever.

 

[MAKG]

Actually, the first set of line wrenches I bought was a POS. The body would distort and it would round off just about anything.

After I got sick of that, I picked up a set of flare-nut crows' feet. MUCH better. There are also GOOD line wrenches around.

 

[2ranger87]

Good thing you're not in Canada...I paid over $100 each for the calipers...the back end was cheaper...only $20 per cylinder...if you have to replace the lines you might be able to get away with the section to the splitter on the axel on the rears...I ended up replacing them all and was much happier...brake lines are fairly inexpensive and if you get a flaring tool it makes custom cutting a breeze...

You can patch lines, but not recommended at all...

Um....

I live in Canada, and have NEVER paid any where near that per caliper, even after the core........

Without the core charge, i've been able to put a pair of calipers and wheel cylinders on for about $100, including brake fluid.

Unless of course, you are talking about a vehicle not in your sig.....

 

[Mark_88]

Nope...bought two calipers at CTC around the 9/11 (guess that was a few years ago) and they charged me around $100 per side...before the castings, I know the prices have dropped since then because the rotors were about $75 each also...now they're about $35 each...even still...prices for parts in Canada are higher than the US...in Ontario, anyways...

 

[upnorthdad]

Guys, we got everything all put back together... with new caliper and wheel cylinder.... the caliper was $36 and the w.c. was $29, I also had to buy one new line for the back. Those brake lines you can bend yourself is great.... I got real close to matching the existing lines profile..... but now I still have a brake problem I thought all this work would fix... I will post on another thread.
Thanks Dave

 

[2ranger87]

Nope...bought two calipers at CTC around the 9/11 (guess that was a few years ago) and they charged me around $100 per side...before the castings, I know the prices have dropped since then because the rotors were about $75 each also...now they're about $35 each...even still...prices for parts in Canada are higher than the US...in Ontario, anyways...

I don't disagree that parts pricing is higher in Canada, but wow, $100 per side is high, even 1 or 2 years ago.......

I suppose pricing could be based on demand and core availability, but really, how many years has that casting been used? (I can bet almost 10 years, maybe more)

One of the many reasons I will NOT by auto parts from CTC. Sometimes their sale prices are "good", but they are simply not competitive with jobbers (I used to work for CTC, hence the "hate-on)