Here:
Instructions:
1. The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.
2. Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.
3. Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...
4. Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.
5. Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.
6. Close the bleeder valve.
7. Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.
8. Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help suck fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.
9. Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.
10. The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.
11. Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.
12. Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.
Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.
and:
I bleed the master cylinder while holding it in my hands with the reservoir and clutch line attached (no slave cylinder)
I have a friend hold the reservoir up and I orient the master "nose up" and press in the pushrod by hand (air is compressible, fluid is not) I keep moving the clutch line and the master cylinder around to work all the air out of the line and cylinder and up into the reservoir
When you can no longer push the pushrod in by hand the job is done, (it feels like you are trying to compress a steel bar) you can then install the master into the firewall (bend the plastic inner fender out of the way with a small ratchet strap)
Though this is easier to do if instead of using the pushrod to bleed a NEW master cylinder you use instead a screwdriver as a pushrod and only install the pushrod AFTER you've mounted the master to the firewall
the '93-94 and '95-current master cylinders CANNOT (absolutely cannot) be bled
when mounted to the firewall (I may be wrong, but I've never accomplished it)
The '85-92 master cylinder bleeds out rather nicely when bolted into place, but
though the '93-up clutch line will attach to it allowing the use of the '93-up slave cylinder you probably wouldn't like the result....
Hope this helps!!!!
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and 
This damn cltch system is a PITA. I have been trying everything the books says and some. I have tried to use a vaccuum on it, I even tried bleeding it like a brake system but no joy. 
I even took the quick disconnect out of the slave and pushed the button inside and tried to get it to bleed that way. still nothing coming out. This is really starting to get frustrating. 
