Can't anyone figure this mind bending issue out???????????


Yes, that's pretty much how I go about things but the more I learn about fuel injection and the interaction of parts the more I realize how critical it is to fully understand the realm of function of each component...

Adsm08 once told me I was reading way too much into what an engine computer can do...lol
 
You should use key to crank engine for compression test, and hold gas pedal to the floor while cranking.
It is a good idea

Must used screw in compression gauge, not "hold in place" gauge

I had a Chevy motor with distributor wobble, caused intermittent misfire on one cylinder, but never seen it before or after so very unlikely cause

Glad I checked back before doing the compression test I hope to get that done soon. Its running worse like double popping and its surging in rpm's at idle from 900-1000 rpm's. I drove to town popping bogging I stopped got out went around back the tailpipe smelled of fuel real strong. It don't seam to want to clear up and run right like it use to do off and on

Maybe I should pull the dist cap look it over inside its a new Borg Warner cap and rotor. The old cap number 3 terminal or pole inside was corroded real bad all others where ok
 
Corrected :)

Do the compression test to take it off the table or find out if it IS the problem
 
Corrected :)

Do the compression test to take it off the table or find out if it IS the problem

Ron

Still waiting for the weather to get better to do the compression test. This issue started right after the vacuum line blew off the Cruise Control. It was running rough at start up popping missing. I thought about it I pulled the vacuum line off the Cruise Control the engine died. I put it back on fired it up its running smooth again. I got on the highway it was surging at 55mph got to town popping again. I got home pulled the vacuum line off plugged it the other vacuum line goes down through the firewall. It didn't change this time still running bad
 

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