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Can you tell if fluids need to be changed by the way they look?


bluebombersfan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Messages
361
Vehicle Year
2006
Transmission
Manual
I bought a 2006 Ranger with 100k highway kms and want to know if I should just go by how they look or just change them all?

I know how to do my manual transmission fluid and diff fluid so I suppose I just have to pay the shop for the power steering and brake fluid.
 
Clear fluid gets yellow or cloudy or dark/red fluid will get darker or slightly pink. You can buy a suction "gun" from a parts store...it looks like a grease gun...put the rubber tube into the resevoir/pull the handle out the end of the gun/it sucks the fluid out of the resevoir into the gun/squirt the used fluid in an old container bby pushing the handle back into the gun slowly/refill resevoir with correct new fluid with a funnel
 
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Yes replace all the fluids when you buy a vehicle just because you dont know when they changed it last, and now you will and be able to write somewhere at what miles you should change what fluids.
 
^^^I agree with Brownie Mobile, every used vehicle I've ever purchased has always gone through a "Full Service". Often times a previous owner will not change fluids if they know they plan on selling the vehicle or trading it in, and a lot of used car dealers won't change the fluids either, I find that if I buy a used vehicle that has freshly changed fluids they are usually covering up a problem, I know the Bronco 2 I just picked up needs head gaskets, the oil was freshly changed but the previous owner was nice enough to inform me when I picked it up that they had the gaskets just wasn't using the vehicle so they never tore into it to change them, its not leaking bad but showing signs so I'll be doing that here soon.

Going by color is sometimes a key, but like I said if they changed the fluids to cover something up it may take a few days weeks or months to show itself.
 
Not only should you change the fluids. I suggest marking on the reservoir if you can the level at which you filled too. Most reservoirs should stay at the same level. You will be able to tell if the break lines are leaking or power steering master clutch cylinder and such. Those are real important to know. I wouldn't want to be driving knowing my breadlines are leaking fluid.
 
Well 90K miles is one of the service intervals for all that stuff. I think 100K km is about 90K miles, so just do them all anyway. You can't over maintain a car.


Well, you can, but it isn't easy to do.
 
I change A/T fluid every 25,000...never had an A/T go bad....got 213,000 on the Ranger A/T---takes a few seconds to drop into drive but does fine in 2nd/3rd/3rd O.D./4th/4thO.D....

(of course I run outta speedometer by then :icon_rofl: }
 
And - unless if you are using the DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, it's hydroscopic (which means it absorbs water) that can help rot out brake systems from the inside. I put new brake fluid in all our cars every few years.
 
And - unless if you are using the DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, it's hygroscopic (which means it absorbs water) that can help rot out brake systems from the inside. I put new brake fluid in all our cars every few years.

Fixed it for you.

You're supposed to change fluids??? I thought you buy a used car, dont do anything other then put gas in it. Then call it a POS when it leaves you stranded on the side of the road.
Thats what it seems like most people do.
 
i always go through a vehicle & change everything, got a S10 blazer for the wife (free from dad) it had 180,000 on it, both diferentials were low & the axle fluid really smelled bad too! after refilling with fresh i soon discovered both front & rear axles needed axleshaft seals....and if you ride in the back theres a definate bearing noise in the rear axle, got a spare axle out to the farm if i ever need it, so not really worring about it. brake fluid? usually at some point in time i need a caliper, wheel cylinder or a brake line goes bad. when i bleed the system i run enough through that its all fresh fluid by the time im done. usually dont worry about the clutch fluid, but due to some recent issues, ive got all new clutch hydraulics and the fluid of course is now new as well. powersteering fluid i dont mess with unless it looks really bad, had a line go about 5-6 years ago, so its got new fluid as of the line replacement. i have heard of a inline p/s fluid filter. all in all, any new to you vehicle with over 100,000 miles should get a real going-through, someone earlier said "you can never over maintain a vehicle" i second that!
 
And - unless if you are using the DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, it's hydroscopic (which means it absorbs water) that can help rot out brake systems from the inside. I put new brake fluid in all our cars every few years.
uuuhmn Dont use DOT 5 for any normal brake system. It isnt compatible with DOT 3-4 systems. The only vehicle Ive seen that specs DOT 5 are the mail trucks. You aren't going hurt anything by checking the levels of all the things you can check. You really can't over check anything. If the Mercon is pink it is OK. By checking all the driveline, I discovered that the front diff and the transfer case leak a little.. So does the steering box.
The diffs are supposed to smell bad, but it should be clear ish. All brake fluid is hydroscopic. That is why wheel cylinders pit. That is why the spec is for dryboiling pont
 
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I don't think I ever even changed the clutch fluid in my other truck,
 
uuuhmn Dont use DOT 5 for any normal brake system. It isnt compatible with DOT 3-4 systems. The only vehicle Ive seen that specs DOT 5 are the mail trucks. You aren't going hurt anything by checking the levels of all the things you can check. You really can't over check anything. If the Mercon is pink it is OK. By checking all the driveline, I discovered that the front diff and the transfer case leak a little.. So does the steering box.
The diffs are supposed to smell bad, but it should be clear ish. All brake fluid is hydroscopic. That is why wheel cylinders pit. That is why the spec is for dryboiling pont

Motorcycles have been DOT 5 for many decades.
 

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