2.0L ('83-'88) Can i run with the vapor purge valve disconnected?

[Derekzee]

Is the vapor purge valve important to keep? Or can I delete it? I accidentally broke the wire off it and the engine idles waaaaay better without it on. 1984 ford ranger 2.0l. (I replaced the old one because it was clicking and the new one was doing the same thing. The wire came unattached while I was moving it to the side and the engine instantly began idling smoothly)

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Well. It's important.

Something something disconnected vapor purge your truck is now on fire.

I can't remember how it all goes together, but I remember reading it can happen.

I'd fix it. Or install a halon system. YMMV.

 

[SenorNoob]

I'd expect it to click when it works... That said IDK how different the 2.0 is (carbed right?) but the one on my truck is replaced with a vacuum cap and I can't tell a difference.

 

[Derekzee]

Yeah, it's carburetored. I've owned the truck for roughly 5 years already. The purge valve never clicked until after I rebuilt the carb last year. Thought it became faulty so I found another old stock new one to replace it, but it is doing the same clicking. Is your truck carbed too? Maybe I could cap mine off as well? Does that mean your canister itself just has an open port to vent it then? Instead of the line going to the purge valve?

 

[SenorNoob]

Mine is a 4.0. No carb. Multiport EFI. I don't have anything but the plastic line from tank now. (Illegal here and definitely wouldn't pass emissions.) The canister in sitting on the porch I think.

The correct way to handle this to find out why it runs worse when it's connected. I suspect a vacuum leak between the valve and the tank. There isn't much there. Just the canister, some lines, and a grommet at the tank. I wonder if any leak around the tank (gas cap or filler neck maybe) could cause that?

 

[Derekzee]

Mine is a 4.0. No carb. Multiport EFI. I don't have anything but the plastic line from tank now. (Illegal here and definitely wouldn't pass emissions.) The canister in sitting on the porch I think.

The correct way to handle this to find out why it runs worse when it's connected. I suspect a vacuum leak between the valve and the tank. There isn't much there. Just the canister, some lines, and a grommet at the tank. I wonder if any leak around the tank (gas cap or filler neck maybe) could cause that?

Thanks, I'll start checking that line. And all the other vacuum lines too. They could be original still. I'll inspect around the tank as well.

 

[franklin2]

The vapor system is just for emissions. All the old 70's and earlier vehicles, just vented the gas tank to the atmosphere. They decided this was polluting the air, and started making the fuel system closed, trapping the fumes in the charcoal canister, and then burning them later in the engine when the engine was ready for it.

If you made sure the line from the canister was open, the tank would vent like the old vehicles did. If you pull the gas cap at the station to fill the tank, and it puffs air out, you know the tank is not venting properly. The gas cap is designed to let air in when the engine uses the fuel, but it will not let air/fumes out.