2.0L ('83-'88) Can i run with the vapor purge valve disconnected?


Derekzee

5+ Year Member

Joined
May 24, 2021
Messages
12
Points
601
City
Ontario canada
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Automatic
Is the vapor purge valve important to keep? Or can I delete it? I accidentally broke the wire off it and the engine idles waaaaay better without it on. 1984 ford ranger 2.0l. (I replaced the old one because it was clicking and the new one was doing the same thing. The wire came unattached while I was moving it to the side and the engine instantly began idling smoothly)
 

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Well. It's important.

Something something disconnected vapor purge your truck is now on fire.

I can't remember how it all goes together, but I remember reading it can happen.

I'd fix it. Or install a halon system. YMMV.
 
I'd expect it to click when it works... That said IDK how different the 2.0 is (carbed right?) but the one on my truck is replaced with a vacuum cap and I can't tell a difference.
 
Yeah, it's carburetored. I've owned the truck for roughly 5 years already. The purge valve never clicked until after I rebuilt the carb last year. Thought it became faulty so I found another old stock new one to replace it, but it is doing the same clicking. Is your truck carbed too? Maybe I could cap mine off as well? Does that mean your canister itself just has an open port to vent it then? Instead of the line going to the purge valve?
 
Mine is a 4.0. No carb. Multiport EFI. I don't have anything but the plastic line from tank now. (Illegal here and definitely wouldn't pass emissions.) The canister in sitting on the porch I think.

The correct way to handle this to find out why it runs worse when it's connected. I suspect a vacuum leak between the valve and the tank. There isn't much there. Just the canister, some lines, and a grommet at the tank. I wonder if any leak around the tank (gas cap or filler neck maybe) could cause that?
 
Mine is a 4.0. No carb. Multiport EFI. I don't have anything but the plastic line from tank now. (Illegal here and definitely wouldn't pass emissions.) The canister in sitting on the porch I think.

The correct way to handle this to find out why it runs worse when it's connected. I suspect a vacuum leak between the valve and the tank. There isn't much there. Just the canister, some lines, and a grommet at the tank. I wonder if any leak around the tank (gas cap or filler neck maybe) could cause that?
Thanks, I'll start checking that line. And all the other vacuum lines too. They could be original still. I'll inspect around the tank as well.
 

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