BW 1354 manual trouble

[evan61]

I recently converted my Ranger over from an electric 1354 to a manual 1354, everything bolted up perfectly. My trouble is the manual case now wants to pop out of gear into neutral going down the road. My Ranger is a 91 SC with a 4.0 and a M50D in it.

Before I put it in I tested it on the floor and ran it through the gears, all 4x4 gears engage okay, but there's a real fine line between neutral and 2 wheel drive. I thought once I got it in and everything the shifter would hold it in 2 wheel drive, but it just pops out. Nothing is in the way as far as hitting the side of the shifter to cause this. I took it shopping today, first real test for it and it popped out twice and I finally ended up driving home in 4X4 hi real slow with all the front shafts turning but not having the hubs locked in.

Is there a specific procedure for aligning each gear or is it the case itself ?? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks !!

 

[Ranger44]

Have you checked the shift linkage under the truck? It could be binding on something, or may need to be ajusted. Sounds weird to me. Transfer Cases that come from RBV's are pretty tough, I wouldn't think it was shot...but it's still a possibility.

 

[evan61]

I've checked for binding in the linkage, there is none, it moves freely. Before I put it in the truck I tested it on the floor running through the gears. There's a nice snapping noise when you hit 4hi and 4 lo, but neutral and 2 wheel drive it doesn't do that. You just barely have to move the shifter on the case and you are either in neutral or grinding to keep it in 2 wheel drive, move it ahead or back and you hear that nice crisp snap as it goes into gear.

 

[Redneckryder]

there's a real fine line between neutral and 2 wheel drive.

2H
4H
N
4L

i dont understand this? Dont you have to go through 4H and dont you have to go over to the left to hit neutral??

 

[evan61]

2H
4H
N
4L

i dont understand this? Dont you have to go through 4H and dont you have to go over to the left to hit neutral??

The indicator is not on the shift level, but all the way back is 4lo, next up is neutral, then what I call 2 wheel drive(when only back drive shaft is turning) and finally 4hi.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

no, the gear your calling 2wd is actually 4 hi. the shift pattern candy posted is correct.

 

[surffishin07]

no, the gear your calling 2wd is actually 4 hi. the shift pattern candy posted is correct.

i agree and it sounds to me like he has the front axle binding and forcing into neutral because he is using 4hi on road surfaces. my 1350 does have a fine line between the 4hi and n position but no jumping out

 

[evan61]

Well, in any case it pops out of gear going down the highway. This is only when the back drive shaft is turning. I never had any trouble with my old electric 1354, that is when it actually worked.

Last night I was playing with a 1350 I had on the garage floor. I ran it through all the gears and there's no way any are popping out on that case. You put that one in gear and it stays there. I beginning to think it's the 1354 case I bought that's the trouble. I had problems with it popping out of gear while it was still laying on the floor yet before I even had put it in the truck.

I'm tempted at this point in time to put the 1350 case in my truck and shorten my front drive shaft and make or find linkage that works. This is fast becoming a major headache. It's suppose to be an easy swap. It was only a 2 hour job on the last truck I did it on, that's where the old 1350 manual case is from I was playing with.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

i would try going down the highway in 2wd rather than 4wd and see if its still a problem.

and a 1350 is 100% bolt in on a stock ranger.

 

[Evan]

Again, (maybe I missed something) I don't see how it can jump into N since you need to go left to get there.

It is normal for a case to want to jump out of 4LO or 4HI and into neutral. That's why the linkage locks into 4LO and why it locks in 4HI from going down unless you push the stick to the left.

I would take a look at your linkage. If it's improperly adjusted, set up, or has a broken, missing, or disconnected lateral spring, that locking mechanism won't work and will allow the case to jump from 4LO or 4HI into N.

 

[evan61]

Are you saying there are suppose to be springs on the linkage itself or inside the case ? When I bought the transfer case it only came with the linkage.

 

[Evan]

Are you saying there are suppose to be springs on the linkage itself or inside the case ? When I bought the transfer case it only came with the linkage.

There is a spring under the truck on the linkage that constantly pulls the stick to the right. This allows the linkage to "lock in" to 4HI (a downward lock) and 4LO (an upward lock).

Another thing to check: make sure the linkage is not connected to the body or the frame of the truck in any way. Such a connection can cause the case to be pulled out of gear when the powertrain rotates in the mounts.

 

[evan61]

Okay, maybe that's my trouble then, no spring came with the case and linkage. On the swap I did a few years ago, that was a 1350 though, it had no spring for the linkage and it worked like a charm.

Any chance of a picture of what that spring may look like and exactly where does it hook on the linkage ?? Any chance of taking an after market spring and putting on there ??

The linkage is only bolted to the tranny where it's suppose to go, it could only flex with the tranny and case itself, not rubbing on anything either.

Thanks for your help !!

 

[AllanD]

there is no "spring" on a RBV T-case shifter.

The tension you have to push the lever left against is a miniature rubber bump stop.

The position of the "gate" is the adjustment of the shifter.

To adjust loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) both bolts that hold the shifter to the trans tailshaft.

Push the lever ALL the way forward into 2wd.
Move the gate so it just DOESN'T touch the shift lever.

tighten the small bolt then the big bolt.

At this point you are done and it should work correctly.

AD

 

[Evan]

there is no "spring" on a RBV T-case shifter.

The tension you have to push the lever left against is a miniature rubber bump stop.

The position of the "gate" is the adjustment of the shifter.

To adjust loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) both bolts that hold the shifter to the trans tailshaft.

Push the lever ALL the way forward into 2wd.
Move the gate so it just DOESN'T touch the shift lever.

tighten the small bolt then the big bolt.

At this point you are done and it should work correctly.

AD

For some reason I remember a spring....but chances are I'm incorrect. It sounds like Allan knows what he's talking about here.