Busted shock and muffler question

[computersoc]

2001 Ford Ranger XLT 215k miles. RWD. Upstate NY.

My muffler falls off every 2 or 3 years, even if I use a nicer stainless steel one. It gets strapped in there and everything. Not sure what's going on other than rust but it's getting annoying. I removed it along with the tailpipe other than a piece coming from the cat.

When it fell off, it fell off and hit the driveshaft and got thrown into my passenger side rear Bilstein shock. The shock no longer moves up and down. I tried using a 15 and 18 mm socket to remove the shock but I only have one socket and the bolts didn't budge (even with PB blaster).

Can I drive this 25 miles (highway) to a shop or should I get it towed? The other shock bounces fine. I bought two new ones.

What can be done so the muffler straps stop rusting out and letting the muffler fall?

I ordered a catback and am waiting for it to arrive.

 

[Curious Hound]

I personally would not drive it on the highway like that. A couple miles slowly on secondary roads, MAYBE. I would rather drive with the shock removed. Keep going with the PB Blaster and see if you can get the shock removed. 6-point sockets are best to avoid rounding off the stuck fasteners. A breaker bar might help also so that you don't break a ratchet. With a good quality breaker bar and 6-point socket, you could probably slip a piece of pipe over the handle to make it longer and get more leverage.

Otherwise, as a last resort, you could use a nut splitter.

To reduce the frequency of the exhaust falling off, I only have 2 ideas. First, make sure the exhaust is fastened with good quality hangars and maybe paint them to help slow down the corrosion. Second, frequently rinse the bottom of the truck to keep salt/chemical buildup to a minimum. I know that's not fun through the wintertime. But even if it only doubles the life of your exhaust, it's worth the trouble.

... and yes. I grew up in Pennsylvania. So even though my profile says I'm in South Carolina now, I do know how bad northern winters are on vehicles.

Eric B

 

[97RangerXLT]

I agree with Eric. get that shock out of there. worst case, take a sawzall and cut through the shock at the bottom and top right beffore where it mounts, then drive it.

If you are trying to save a bit, keep pb blasting it, go to harbor freight and get a good 24 inch breaker bar and an impact socket for the nut, and then one size lower and work the nut with the breaker bar. tighten a little bit, then loosen a little bit, hit it with more PB blaster and repeat. eventually you will be able to move the breaker bar a bit more each time.

Also, there are only 6 bolts, three screws, and a wiring harness connector that holds the bed on. grab a friend and remove the bed, you will be able to get to those shock mounts much easier then.

Regards,

AJ

 

[computersoc]

I'll try with a friend this weekend.

What is the rubber piece that holds the tail pipe up? Are these readily available at auto parts store? I cut it in half when I removed my muffler, tailpipe, muffler pipe, etc. not realizing I would need it. I'm guessing one won't come with the catback that I ordered.

 

[Curious Hound]

I don't remember what those pieces are called. They are just part of the hanger. Most auto parts places have a variety of straps and hangers. Your catback system may include some hangers. Some do and some don't.

Eric B

 

[RayInStl]

If you still can't get the bolt to budge, get a small propane torch and heat the nut. The heat will cause the nut to expand, breaking the bond of the rust.

Good luck! Gotta love the rust belt!

 

[RayInStl]

I'll try with a friend this weekend.

What is the rubber piece that holds the tail pipe up? Are these readily available at auto parts store? I cut it in half when I removed my muffler, tailpipe, muffler pipe, etc. not realizing I would need it. I'm guessing one won't come with the catback that I ordered.

I know autozone sells them in their "HELP!" section. On their site, they call them a "Walker Rubber Exhaust Hanger".

 

[computersoc]

I bought this but not sure it's the correct size? Says "may fit". It looks exactly like the picture.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...YvLyB2yUxysH+Yf5R7i8TJ+eVSryBQtY3yM13n/4RqrkJ

If I use heat, do I use heat on the top bolt too? Do I need to let it cool down before tightening it again? It won't budge and tried another friend and he couldn't get it either. It definitely needs heat.

 

[Curious Hound]

That's the part you need.

I would concentrate the heat on the nut. It would be great if you could heat the nut but keep the bolt or stud cold. But that's nearly impossible to do. The heat expands the metal. But the rust expands at a different rate. So, the theory is that the rust bond breaks free.

You're in a fight. But you will win eventually.

Eric B

 

[RayInStl]

Here's a video that explains it very well.