Bumper Color ?

[Scrambler82]

As some of you know I am in the middle of a Custom 4x4 Fabrication (C4x4) Rear Steppie bumper Project.
I have been working with C4x4 on this bumper for about 6 months and it is now in the finish stage of fitting.
I am at the point in the project to consider what color I will be painting the bumper.
Was going to do Line-X but not as this time so my color choice is easy, BLACK.
Question is what level of gloss will look the best.
I am thinking something less than a semi-gloss but not flat.

I started a poll just to get an idea from other Ranger owners.

thanks

This isn’t the finished position for the bumper, needs to be raised 1/25”, new brackets are on their way and should finish the project.

Customer 4x4 Fabrication is a great place to deal with, Mike is easy to talk to for mods and his quality is good.

the bumper after last fitting:

 

[Frank The Tank]

Satin Black is the only choice I would even consider... So, somewhere in between.

 

[brinker88]

I use Chassis Saver on every metal piece I make/use. I use the semi-gloss. You need to clear coat it or it will fade to a flat black in a couple months.

 

[Scrambler82]

Satin Black is the only choice I would even consider... So, somewhere in between.

Isn’t that what is called Semi-gloss ?

I am not sure but was thinking that way.

so, if the both colors are the same semi and satin we are on the same page.

thanks.



brinker88,
I will be priming this stuff with an etching primer, seems to stop a lot of rusting.
Then the black paint semi-gloss or statin, up in the air here, then on to a clear but I do not think you can get a flat or satin clear.
I will have to ask my buddy who is the painter to see what he can get.

thanks

 

[brinker88]

Isn’t that what is called Semi-gloss ?

I am not sure but was thinking that way.

so, if the both colors are the same semi and satin we are on the same page.

thanks.



brinker88,
I will be priming this stuff with an etching primer, seems to stop a lot of rusting.
Then the black paint semi-gloss or statin, up in the air here, then on to a clear but I do not think you can get a flat or satin clear.
I will have to ask my buddy who is the painter to see what he can get.

thanks

This chassis saver (if you've never used it) has a chemical reaction to the metal. It literally seals it shut. Plus this stuff dries like a powder coat. Nice and smooth.

 

[Scrambler82]

This chassis saver (if you've never used it) has a chemical reaction to the metal. It literally seals it shut. Plus this stuff dries like a powder coat. Nice and smooth.

You got a name/manufacturer of this stuff, sound interesting ?

 

[brinker88]

http://magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

I get it at O'Reilly Supply local to me. About $45/qt.

 

[Scrambler82]

http://magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

I get it at O'Reilly Supply local to me. About $45/qt.

Thanks.
I can get it at the local CAPs (Consumer Auto Parts).

I will talk to my painter friend and see if he can handle this stuff.

How did you apply it, brush or spray ?

If you sprayed it, how much reducer did you use ?

thanks again / ltr

 

[brinker88]

I just brush it on with a good synthetic paint brush.

 

[Frank The Tank]

There is actually a "Gloss Meter" that actually puts a number to a sheen level. The amount of gloss or sheen is measured in degrees.

This will help you for comparative purposes:

Gloss = 90 Degrees
Semi-Gloss= 60 Degrees
Satin = 50 Degrees
Hand Rubbed Oil Finish = 35 Degrees
Flat = 25 Degrees
Dead Flat = 10 Degrees.

You can order any amount of sheen you want or adjust it yourself with the addition of flatteners.

I copied that from another website. The rest is my opinion.


You must never put self etching primer over rust, dirt, paint, oil or moisture. It's acid based and is good for bare steel or aluminum that is too smooth for mechanical adhesion coatings. IE: if you rough or with 80 grit first you have enough scratches for standard primer or fillers to adhere. The trouble I run into is completely eliminating the rust in hard to reach spaces for the self/etching.
I typically rough it all and use Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Unlike other rust primers it is not oil based (try to find another not oil based, I haven't) when you go to paint it you will be glad you used urethane based. Always use alcohol or a (final wipe) product before painting.
Next if I'm rattle canning I use Diamond Hard satin black. This stuff levels like glass (really its amazing on frames) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002XKH814?tag=959media-20 I order it by the case.

If I'm shooting it with an HVLP I use Kirker Hot Rod Black (satin) with a medium speed urethane. I order it from Pivco it's about 85 bucks a gallon for paint and Urethane. I love the look. Plus if you ever need to do a little touch up the satin diamond hard is an exact match. https://pivco.net/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_model=1&keyword=Hot+rod+black

If you have any questions I'm happy to assist (even if you go with another type of paint)

 

[Surrey]

Generally the more glossy the paint the more durable. That's why kitchen and bath paints are typoically semi gloss or gloss.

Satin is between semi gloss and flat.