Building a fiberglass center console with FAST Fabrication

[FAST Fabrication]

FAST Fabrication decided to build a fiberglass console for the race truck. This is not the first fiberglass thing we have built on the truck (we did the scoops, upper visor and lower visor and valence); however this was the first time we used the wire mesh purely for skeleton shape purpose. I will tell you how we went about getting to the point we are now, and will continue to post updates until the final product is ready for paint.

Step 1: We built the main structure out of thin wall tubing, and put a compound bend so it could go in between the seats and down to the back seat bar. The 3 major components going in the console were mounted to this framework: shifter, intercom, and master shutoff. Everything was put in place so either the console would lay flush with the top of the components or lay over the components edges to hold it in place.

Step 2: Once we had the tube structure completely welded with all the components going into the console we built a structure to lay the fiberglass on. We used ¼” wire mesh and ½” mdf to build our framework for which the console would be built on.

Step 3: We needed to come up with a way to lay the fiberglass, but be able to separate it from the wire framework once it was complete. We tested a hefty 1.1mil black trash bag with a puddle of mixed resin to make sure it did not burn through the plastic and would separate after it cured.

Step 4: Next we cut the trash bags up and used cellophane packing tape to get a nice tight fit and laid plastic over the flooring of the cab.

Step 5: Time to start building a fiberglass console, first we cut the cloth and mat to shape of the console with 1” overlap at joints. We laid our first layer using cloth and then let it cure for an hour.

Step 6: We laid our second layer using mat in sections, with the same overlap as above and used any extra mixed resin to buildup areas already completed. Applied the extra resin so when we sand it to smooth out the shape, we don’t sand into the glass. We had originally planned to do a 3rd layer of mat, but the 2 layers (cloth & mat) are rigid enough for our fiberglass console that is basically just a cover.

Step 7: After two hours of cure time, we removed the trash bag with the console connected from the wire mesh framework. As you see in the pictures above, those yellow and light color areas were spots were the fiberglass was already separating from the plastic not air pockets. Once we had it out of the truck we simply pulled the plastic away from the fiberglass shell. We then trimmed excess with scissors and next we will do the final shape trim with a cut-off wheel.

Some dna was left in the console

The skeleton framework after console removed

Couldn’t wait till after final trimming to check it out

Future steps to come: we will be sanding and shaping the glass to our liking. Once the console is the shape and size we want, we will cut the whole for the components and mount it. Then paint will follow after that. If you built a mold, basically the reverse of doing a frame, you could build the smoothness into your mold so you skip the whole step of sanding and shaping. Normally in a mold the first thing you would spray down after your mold release would be gel coat, we however will not be doing gel coat on this con sole, just primer and paint.


if you have not seen the build thread for the race ranger be sure to check it out for lots of detailed pictures

 

[strvger]

interesting project. i would have been tempted to put cloth on both sides of the mesh and mdf. then additional mat where the components would be placed. the extra support of the wire mesh frame and mdf wouldn't be a bad idea on a race truck.
i built a sailboat from a kit many years ago and fiber-glassed over plywood structural supports making it more a part of the molded f'glass deck and hull. just my thoughts.
will be fun to watch and see how it performs for you. great info on modding with fiberglass!

 

[FAST Fabrication]

interesting project. i would have been tempted to put cloth on both sides of the mesh and mdf. then additional mat where the components would be placed. the extra support of the wire mesh frame and mdf wouldn't be a bad idea on a race truck.
i built a sailboat from a kit many years ago and fiber-glassed over plywood structural supports making it more a part of the molded f'glass deck and hull. just my thoughts.
will be fun to watch and see how it performs for you. great info on modding with fiberglass!

remember, the mesh and mdf was only used to keep the form of the glass, its no longer part of the console. The components are all mounted to the tube structure, the console is purely a slip over cover, thats why we stuck with just the two layers. No need for the top cloth layer or gel coat because were sand and smoothing the console then doing a skin coat of bondo and then paint and primer... be different if we were making them for production and selling to a customer that may just keep it raw for awhile

 

[strvger]

ahhh. i didn't realize it was just being slipped on and off as needed. thought it was going to be more of a permanent fixture. thanks for the explanation.

 

[FAST Fabrication]

ahhh. i didn't realize it was just being slipped on and off as needed. thought it was going to be more of a permanent fixture. thanks for the explanation.

no the glass is just a shell, held on with dzus fasteners. The tubing is the permanent fixture and all the components are mounted to it. It really is purely for esthetics, all are breakers and switches are being mounted up in the center of dash. We may put the one starter button next to the intercom, but that would be the extent to things mounted in the console.

 

[FAST Fabrication]

Here is a supply list

Big jug of fiberglass resin. $35
1-2 bags of cloth $4.50 each
autobody mat, either get at autozone or you can get it all at walmart or buy on ebay for bigger quantity
2" throw away brushes, need a lot. To hard to try and clean after each mix $1
1 qt clear plastic cups .87 cents
Acetone
80 grit sand paper
1/4" wire mesh in outside section of home depot
1/2" mdf
3-black trash bags
roll of aluminum foil tape

the prices came from walmart, this is not the only way to do this. You can use foil instead of a 1.1 mil black trash bag for separation from frame. You can leave the frame inside depending on application. There are lots of ways to lay glass and building a positive or a negative are your options for the actual process you will follow.

Updates.

We did the final trim, basically laid it on our permanent fixture the tube and drew a line with marker and then used a cut off wheel to cut the shape.

cut our components and did some sanding

Here is a look at the top, its close still some work here and there

working on sides as we speak

 

[88_Eddie]

lookin sweet

 

[Xandor]

Great looking work so far.

 

[FAST Fabrication]

thanks guys, if you like our work and want to see all the pictures of new work and products when they get done, become a fan of our facebook page. The fast fab website only gets updated about once a month, but we try to update the fan page daily, right now we are trying to get caught up and get everything on there.

 

[FAST Fabrication]

The final product, weighs 5 lbs. Once we are ready for paint will sand the primer with 500 grit and paint the console. It looks like it leans in the pictures, and it does but that is because its on a flat surface. When its laid on the tubes, it sits level. One tube has more of an angle in it, the driver side. The throttle cable comes out the bottom, underneath the glass were that lil hump is. The shifter cable comes out of a notch on the bottom of driver side as well. We will be wrapping all the edges in that black trim we put on the scoops and visor to protect it when taking it on and off. When we do the dzus mounts we plan to make it so you can remove it with the seats in it. Might get a picture of that tomorrow. Well here they are.