Bugs

[Davis]

ahh crap. can you jut run the NB for now? you are running the LC-1 in NB emulate, correct?

 

[anupaum]

ahh crap. can you jut run the NB for now? you are running the LC-1 in NB emulate, correct?

Changing the MSQ file to use a narrow band sensor is easily done. All I need to do is put the narrow band back in, re-flash the Megasquirt MSQ file and it will use the fuel and spark tables I've tuned with the wide band without trouble.

That's by far the easiest and cheapest solution.

I was NOT using it in "emulate" mode--I had it all set up for wideband use.

We're snowed in today. I should be working on the truck, but right now I have NO motivation to do so . . .

 

[TireIron]

With all the new pipeing and different IC your fuel tables will probably be different now also than they were before... It would be a bummer to not have the wideband to tune it back to where it should be. I wonder if there is anyway they will warranty it.

 

[anupaum]

With all the new pipeing and different IC your fuel tables will probably be different now also than they were before... It would be a bummer to not have the wideband to tune it back to where it should be. I wonder if there is anyway they will warranty it.

Retuning is really no big deal. I had the fuel map VERY close with the narrow band sensor and didn't do very much with the wideband anyway. A bit of driving around with my son tweaking the fuel tables and I'll be back in business!

I wanted to work on the truck yesterday, but there is so much snow on the ground we had a tough time getting back from Christmas with the in-laws. I'm hoping I'll get some work done on it tomorrow.

 

[anupaum]

This afternoon I swapped out the wide band O2 sensor and removed the non-functional LC-1. I replaced the throttle position sensor, and to my delight, got a voltage reading of .9 the FIRST TIME I hooked up my voltmeter to the sensor.

However, the intercooler tubing WON'T fit under the blower as easily as I'd thought. Part of the problem is that I've got the heater hoses and a bunch of wiring under there. The other issue is that the intercooler tubing would come up right next to the exhaust header, which sort of defeats the whole purpose of an intercooler . . .

So, I'm trying a different geometry for my tubing. I've hurt one of my fingers and it's a little uncomfortable to work on the truck, but I'm hoping that with a bit more tweaking, I'll be able to get this thing back on the road where it belongs!

 

[anupaum]

I've now re-routed my intercooler tubing, tightened everything up and swapped out both the O2 sensor AND the TPS.

But now the truck won't start . . .

It DID cough to life the first time I tried it, only to race to 5 000 rpm. I shut it down and checked all of my joints, then it wouldn't start again.

Also, my TPS readings won't go below 79. (They SHOULD be less than 30 when the throttle is completely shut.)

GRRRR!!!!!

 

[anupaum]

More info . . .

The reason the truck won't start is because it's in "flood clear" mode. That means there's a problem with the TPS, because Megasquirt ONLY uses the TPS for flood clear and over run. When I disconnected the TPS, the truck fired up without trouble.

Well, almost . . .

It's running at 5 000 rpm again . . .

I am getting VERY frustrated!

 

[TireIron]

did you remember to switch the MS over to narrowband O2? and if you tuned the MS for the bad TPS, not that it has a good one will the readings be wrong in the MS?

 

[anupaum]

did you remember to switch the MS over to narrowband O2? and if you tuned the MS for the bad TPS, not that it has a good one will the readings be wrong in the MS?

I did switch the Megasquirt back to a narrow band O2 sensor. Yesterday I swapped one of the pieces for my intercooler outlet (which was slightly smaller than the others) and that helped bring my idle down to about 2 500 rpm. I'll replace one of the clamps today and check to see if the throttle plate is closing completely. I suspect that my TPS woes may relate to an issue with the throttle cable itself.

If that's not the case, then I simply can't figure out what's wrong with the TPS readings. I've got a brand new sensor in there now. Sometimes the readings are perfect, and sometimes they're not.

Oh, and there's a NEW problem now . . . When the truck is running, my "battery light" comes on. It seems the moment I deal with one issue, another crops up.

At this point, I'm ready to pull the entire thing off and sell the truck . . .

Grrr!!!

 

[anupaum]

Ok, I found a major leak. It's in one of my 45 degree elbows, where the tubing itself is bent / indented enough that the clamp can't form a proper seal. That explains the high idle!

 

[Yellowsplash]

Have you tried making your own boost tester to find these leaks? Pressurizing the system to your desired boost level will allow you to listen for air leaks. Alittle soap and water at all the couplers and clamps, bov, gasket mating surfaces, ect., will help to find them. You'll never find all of them without some sort of device to pressurize and imitate boost. Remember, some leaks will not leak until you’re in boost....

 

[anupaum]

Have you tried making your own boost tester to find these leaks? Pressurizing the system to your desired boost level will allow you to listen for air leaks. Alittle soap and water at all the couplers and clamps, bov, gasket mating surfaces, ect., will help to find them. You'll never find all of them without some sort of device to pressurize and imitate boost. Remember, some leaks will not leak until you’re in boost....

It's leaking under vacuum, not boost. I replaced the offending elbow with a temporary crush bent pipe this morning, but it's STILL leaking. Air leaks have been my nemesis since this project began!

 

[Yellowsplash]

If its leaking under vacuum, chances are it is leaking under boost as well... How many ply are the couplers you are using? What type of clamps are you using? I have a feeling the parts you have vouched to go cheap on (for availability or simplicity) are causing your issues.

 

[Davis]

you are using t-bolt clamps, right?

 

[anupaum]

you are using t-bolt clamps, right?

Yes. It's not the clamps that are the problem. I need a 45 degree piece that is the SAME outside diameter as the rest of my tubing, and the clamps need to be attached on a STRAIGHT section of the tubing.

In my effort to re-arrange the intercooler outlet tubing geometry to solve my hood-closing problem, I've had to re-configure the layout. My hood shuts now, but now I need a 45 degree section of the same diameter as the rest of my tubing. One of the local muffler shops sold me a mandrel bent piece of stainless steel, but its OUTSIDE diameter is the same as the INSIDE diameter of the rest of my tubing. The clamps simply won't close down tight enough to make up the difference, and THAT'S where my leak is coming from.

I had the air leak problem solved before I tried re-arranging the tubing layout so that I could shut my hood. After ordering another piece between Christmas and New Year's Day, I've tried to use the stainless piece, as well as a crush-bent mild steel piece in its place so I can get the truck running until the new piece comes in. (It's back ordered. My luck, huh?)

So now I'm stuck. My truck has been down for 2 months and every time I see the "2 for 1 Truck Sale" at the local Ford dealer, I'm REALLY tempted to dump the Ranger altogether.

I just can't afford another payment right now. Of course, everyone else is in the same situation, and THAT'S why Ford is offering the 2 for 1 deal.