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bronco2 SAS?


hey man, it really depends what you're looking to do with your rig, how much time you wanna put into it, how much money you wanna spend, what size tire, etc. I did a bronco II a couple years ago with an EB dana 44, i got the radius arms from the same bronco and just extended them and put heims on them and wristed them. I used 5.5" james duff progressive rate springs for an EB as well. pretty simple set up and worked good. good articulation too. just depends what you wanna do
 
toyota axles (would work great on a b2 IMO since its a light weight truck and all just like yota pickups) are passenger side drop...not driver side drop. the diff is on the wrong side for what you need unless you find a different t/case and make it work.

I thought long and hard about how to cheap-ishly put yota axles under my b2 b/c of the width and strength they offer...
 
I have heard multiple people say putting yota axles under an RBV is too much time and effort and money to be worth it. Especially cause a d44 is almost bolt in
 
I'd still love yota axles under a b2... With the size and strength; they'd be a perfect match if the diff was on the correct side.
 
I got the front axle, radius arms, radius arm brackets, and coil buckets for $300. I got the coil springs for $80. And then heims, tube and brackets for the panhard bar and to extend the radius arms were a couple hundred bucks. Can't remember exactly on that. But you can make your own brackets to cut down in cost. I ended making my own radius arm brackets because of the heims. And the radius arm wedges on the axle are already spaced the right width so you don't have cut and move them. It's about as close to a bolt in swap as you can get. I wristed my passenger side radius arm and that helped a ton. Helped take some of the bind out of the setup. Very simple. Strongly recommend it. Good luck!
 
I did a sas on my Ranger and I wouldn't think it would be any diff than a b ll. I've owned several of them too.
I got axels from a 78 1/2 ton ford and it was fairly simple just line it up, drill holes, bend the track arm, cut and adapt the drag link, build a trany cross member, cut the old perches off the rear end then welded the new ones on and had a drive line built. It took longer getting the front axel square than actually doing the work. Well maybe not longer but it was a pretty easy swap.
 

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