bronco ii jeep dana 30 axle swap

[cammeddrz]

Reread what I posted

maybe you should

no strategy, pedal to the floor till the motor blows up

driving on the street, the track, rock crawling, mudding, trails, moab, even desert pre-running......only a chump would approach it that way

 

[4.0B2]

I never said they did that. I refered to how we crawl with strategy and if thats not real riding then what is?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.0B2
no strategy, pedal to the floor till the motor blows up

But ok. You didn't catch on, I didn't spell it out enough. UNDERSTAND???

 

[cammeddrz]

"spelled out" ?

do you mean like "d30 swap=pointless" was?

ok if you meant it differently than i took it fine. you and your friends go out and do what you do.

swap in your d30 like i said 3 pages ago. what-his-bucket even has what you need

 

[The_Dealer]

35s are gonna grenade your d30 just the same as they would a d35...
If you want 35s, I would highly suggest the d44. I guess if you never go into any thick sticky mud, you might get a few months outta it...

Also, if its going to be your DD, putting the stronger axle would seem like an advantage too... All you need is to not be able to get to work on Monday 'cause you snapped your axle on Sunday afternoon.

um no...theres a shit ton of guys running stock 297x d30's with 4.56-5.13 gearing, locked, with 35's, 37's, and i ran 38.5's on mine for a short time with a d30/8.8 combo till i went full width. that was with a 383 stroker and 203/205 doubler. yea i broke some shit but its all in your technique.

d30's are good for 35's-36's, but thats borderline pushing it. if u upgrade shafts u will be fine. ive been in the jeeping scene for about 10 years(haha most of my life) and have run and seen alot of different combo's. the weakest part is the diff and the ring and pinion when u go over 4.56's. the front axle doesnt have near as much stress on it as a rear, esp rear semi float. also with a d30 or hell any front solid axle if u break a shaft or u joint or whatver u can still drive to work or wherever else, provided u are running manual hubs, not flanges

ive broken shit on my jeep when i went d60's with 35 spline shafts, ctm joints, all the goodies. its all in how u drive and what u do. yea for moderate family wheeling/sightseeing and daily driven rig with no bigger then 35's i say go for it. me, i like to tear shit up for some reason so i usually try to make things overkill


and to the original poster. check out escort_gts build thread. he used some ironman arms and they seem to be pretty beefy, and a hell of alot cheaper then other arms

 

[4.0B2]

Escorts build was one of the links I posted for him I think..

 

[brando-commando]

thanks for all the info guys i think i should be able to put somethings together and build up some radius arms.

 

[94xlt4.0]

ive heard from many jeep guys that for MODERATE wheeling 33's are the biggest they would be comfortable running on the d30. 35's will work but your increasing the chances of breaking something drastically. pretty much the same with the d35 too. will the d35 hold up to the same abuse as a d30 yeah and vice versa. if your gonna put a beating on it its best to go d44 or better

 

[chrwilkins30]

Man these people complain about stupid shit.

 

[The_Dealer]

haha...plenty of tj and jk guys runnin 35's and 37's on em. dont be stupid with the skinny and u will be fine

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/front-dana-30-strong-enough-35s-1055286/

pasted from tech library here on trs


a hpd30 and a standard cut d44 are pretty close in strength with the d30 being a tad weaker. the hp will be in some 95yj's (4cyl models, rio grande, some sahara) 97+tj's and xj's

they have the 297x ujoints and dont have the cad. u can run 30 spline shafts with a selectable locker(super 30 kit, yukon, superior, and some other companies make em) and then your weak point will be the r&p, but if u stay 4.56's or 4.88's it will be alot stonger then the thinner 5.13

i wheeled my yj with 35's and hpd30 lightly modded and 8.8 rear for about 3 years with pretty hard trail usage(tellico, uwharrie, some local trails) and i broke a couple outer shafts and trashed a r&p, but i believe the r&p was setup error when i put the locker in

i mean its not gonna last to "pirate" wheeling, but for the normal wheeler not trying to drive over bus sized boulders u will be fine. of course the engine size and driving style will have alot to do with it as well. if its free or super cheap i'd run it. if not hell u can get 44's and 60's pretty cheap and just run a regear and beat the piss out of it. everything breaks, thats just how it is. ive seen a d60 with 35 spline shafts break with a stock 4.0 I-6 and 32's, and ive also seen 40's last on a super 30/super 8.8 setup(dont know how)

just ask yourself what kind of usage it will see. mostly highway with some mud and light crawling(the kind where when u exit the trail your rig doesnt look like a demolitian derby car), or if u want to beat on it like it owes u money

EDIT: u can run 44 outers and knuckles on the d30 with lockout hubs and cross over steering as well

 

[mhughes165]

ok......this is another one of those threads....its amusing, ya, 4cylinder jeeps with gears and big tires, same concept as a yota at that point, they will tend to hold up, but then, take REAL power and apply it to that axle, and look out.

there are advantages to the d35 swap FAR AND BEYOND the advantages that a d30 swap will yield.

the TTB suspension will get u much further then a solid axle will in this scenario, with the power of a healthy small block (in my case) and being locked in the rear allows the ttb in the front to work beautiful. as all of us know, then u have downward travel on our trucks with a 35 not only does it travel down and in on one side(like a solid axle would) but can go down and in on BOTH sides, allowing u to bite a inside edge that those with a solid axle didnt have a dream about....that works in technical trail situation, the mud and on rocks, and has been proved time and time and time again.....

just most of us guys that KNOW BETTER have stopped responding to these threads