Broken brake line, brakes won’t bleed!

[Dirtman]

Just take the ABS pump off, throw it in a river and make some short lines to connect the old input and output lines together. Problem solved.

 

[Mhfco6]

Just take the ABS pump off, throw it in a river and make some short lines to connect the old input and output lines together. Problem solved.

I have heard of people doing that, not only will the rear brakes lock up, but my light in the dash will stay on correct?? Can anyone tell me if the bleeding needs be done repeatedly, or is valve shot??

 

[Uncle Gump]

I know when I did my lines on my 94... in January... I just bypassed the rear abs valve. It was too cold to mess with it. The Brakes work fine and I've noticed no ill effects other then the rear ABS is inoperative.

That being said... If I remember correctly there is a rubber boot on one end and you can push the valve to reset it. Might take some good force to do it and while it is depressed have someone push the brake pedal. You can also rap it with a hammer (valve body) to try and free it up if it is stuck.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Just take the ABS pump off, throw it in a river and make some short lines to connect the old input and output lines together. Problem solved.

I don't think the old systems had an ABS pump. The thing worked more like an electric proportioning valve. Solenoids would activate to limit the pressure to the rear brakes to limit the lock up.

 

[Denisefwd93]

I have heard of people doing that, not only will the rear brakes lock up, but my light in the dash will stay on correct?? Can anyone tell me if the bleeding needs be done repeatedly, or is valve shot??

How to here --> https://youtu.be/JgMjB-r6vVA
pull the codes easy to do. https://youtu.be/tafU3QkkElI

 

[Mhfco6]

Yea I’ve gotten pretty good at pullling the CEL codes on the OBD1. Also, I’ve heard people say if you leave the RABS module in the frame still connected, the CEL will not show in the dash. Might try it out and see. If anyone can come up with a solution without bypassing let me know. Thanks.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Yea I’ve gotten pretty good at pullling the CEL codes on the OBD1. Also, I’ve heard people say if you leave the RABS module in the frame still connected, the CEL will not show in the dash. Might try it out and see. If anyone can come up with a solution without bypassing let me know. Thanks.

It's not part of the PCM system.

It's been written about over and over here and on other forums. 2 search words " bypass RABS

https://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes_rwal.htm

 

[Denisefwd93]

LOL additionally.. the lines are standard AFTER the RABS valve. 3/16" flare. the line going in is metric..and the rear line from the MC although 3/16" uses a odd size metric connector.. I have more pics of that somewhere. LOL We used a 24" pre-made line and short adapter line.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yea I’ve gotten pretty good at pullling the CEL codes on the OBD1. Also, I’ve heard people say if you leave the RABS module in the frame still connected, the CEL will not show in the dash. Might try it out and see. If anyone can come up with a solution without bypassing let me know. Thanks.

That was exactly what I was trying to do in my previous post... maybe you missed it.

When a rear brake line breaks... the internals mechanically shift... trip the brake light indicator and attempt to stop the bleeding of brake fluid. It internally needs to be mechanically reset... to allow fluid to flow to the rear brakes. Even the diagram posted appears to have a button for this issue.

 

[Mhfco6]

Denise I saw you’ve posted that diagram a lot haha. So my light was on and never blinked, was on for about 25 miles before I realized the brake pedal was going to the floor.. then I knew there was a real issue. I don’t mind bypassing as long as the light will go away. Still gotta get it inspected.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Denise I saw you’ve posted that diagram a lot haha. So my light was on and never blinked, was on for about 25 miles before I realized the brake pedal was going to the floor.. then I knew there was a real issue. I don’t mind bypassing as long as the light will go away. Still gotta get it inspected.

I study stuff before getting into it. The light needs to be killed or pulled. some times it goes out with the RABS out. Mine is still on. need to kill for inspection in January on this truck I have now.

Theres's some real good photos on a 2012 discussion here
https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133050

 

[Uncle Gump]

If all you're worried about is the ABS light... take the damn bulb out. Problem solved.

If you're set on keeping the functionality of the ABS... and can't reset the valve... buy a new one. Again.... problem solved.

 

[Bgunner]

Please try Uncle Gump's reset method and then check behind the RABS valve to see if fluid is flowing strong if not the RABS valve is bad and needs to be replaced OR bypassed. I don't know the vehicle inspection laws in Virginia but I have yet to hear of a north east state that says the ABS needs work since it reverts to standard breaking when the ABS system fails. That being said why cant you bypass the RABS valve and remove the light bulb from the dash?

 

[Denisefwd93]

If all you're worried about is the ABS light... take the damn bulb out. Problem solved.

If you're set on keeping the functionality of the ABS... and can't reset the valve... buy a new one. Again.... problem solved.

Spot on, but people really get worked up over this rabs piece of junk, like they really think it's going to save a life when it does everything but save a life. Now on the other hand 4-wheel abs is quite good I had it in my Safari awd van and it was very dependable

 

[Mhfco6]

Spot on, but people really get worked up over this rabs piece of junk, like they really think it's going to save a life when it does everything but save a life. Now on the other hand 4-wheel abs is quite good I had it in my Safari awd van and it was very dependable

Haha, I drive enough junk already and not terribly worried about it too much. Ive seen a lot of information but nothing pertaining directly to my RABS the way it appears. Which size union do I need. Hopefully I can keep old flare nuts, if not what size are they?? Thanks for all your guys help this far.