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Brand new to the B2....is the Sven Pruett build real?


Dhaile

Active Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Feb 7, 2023
Messages
25
City
Arnold, MO.
Vehicle Year
1988
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
None yet
Tire Size
Factory for now
I just bought a 88 B2 a couple months ago. I haven't had time to drive it except for the hour or so I drove it home. After weeks of research, I've settled on some mods and things. This vehicle is going to be the kid's first car when he turns 16 next year. However, he will be learning to drive in it. I have to do a ton of maintenance before I get it on the road regularly for a full shake down. It seems to run super smooth. We've deciphered that it has about 159k miles. The only leak is from the valve cover gaskets(at least, that's the only one I've seen so far). It's super clean. The point of all this is I'm looking at making it as reliable as possible. So, I ran into this interesting book by Sven Pruett. If you don't know which one I'm talking about, you probably won't know the answer to my first question on here. And that is, has anyone actually done this build? I'm not looking for huge performance gains. But, with the way that he lays things out, it seems to eliminate quite a few common issues. However, I don't want to go through the hassle, machine shops, parts hunting and everything else if this build is essentially going to be a stock motor and no improvement. This build will be over next winter. He gets to learn how to turn wrenches and and all the other fun stuff. I'd prefer to stick with the 2.9 for simplicity sake. I've been all over this forum and the google. There was a thread going up until October of 22, but it just died. I just want proof that this thing actually exists and works.
 
I had a 86 2.9 with a 5 speed transmission. It had plenty of power. He is your boy, and I know you want to turn wrenches, believe me this thing is old enough if it's driven daily, wrenches are going to be turning. But I would leave it stock since it's running good. No use it having even more power and he wraps it around a tree.

I would keep it low with stock tires also. Aftermarket rims that have a little more offset would be a little better, but stability is one of the reasons they quit making them. I can throw mine into a corner pretty hard with no worries, but you have to be smooth about it. A new driver if they jerk the wheel may be going over on their top. If they accidentally run out of the road they may be going over also.
 
I had a 86 2.9 with a 5 speed transmission. It had plenty of power. He is your boy, and I know you want to turn wrenches, believe me this thing is old enough if it's driven daily, wrenches are going to be turning. But I would leave it stock since it's running good. No use it having even more power and he wraps it around a tree.

I would keep it low with stock tires also. Aftermarket rims that have a little more offset would be a little better, but stability is one of the reasons they quit making them. I can throw mine into a corner pretty hard with no worries, but you have to be smooth about it. A new driver if they jerk the wheel may be going over on their top. If they accidentally run out of the road they may be going over also.
Oh it’s not getting lifted. It is getting aftermarket wheels with offset to widen the stance. My concern was with reliability more than power. New LED headlights are going in this weekend so you can actually see the road at night. An all new sound system went in a couple weeks ago with all kinds of fancy stuff. It’s been fun so far. But, I’ve been reading about all of the improvements that can be made for oiling and longevity. It’s kind of a dog, but I’m not handing a kid anything with actual power.
 
@PetroleumJunkie412 is well versed on the 2.9l, Pruett's work and a lot of the stuff the Europeans have done with the 2.9l. Search the forums here and read his threads and comments.
 
@PetroleumJunkie412 is well versed on the 2.9l, Pruett's work and a lot of the stuff the Europeans have done with the 2.9l. Search the forums here and read his threads and comments.
I read through a very long one. The last comment shows half a motor put back together. The post and thread died last October. I really wanted to see it through. I’ve read through quite a few of his posts. Him and I should sit down for a few beers. I’d even buy.
 
Be careful with offset wheels, for one I'm not a fan of the look (personal preference, you do you :)), two the more offset the more leverage it puts on the springs up front which will change the camber and possibly screw with the alignment, and finally 3 the wheel bearings will likely hate life, I don't think they're too beefy to start with, I haven't had a Dana 28 in a while though... If you're talking within an inch or two in offset off of factory ignore this, but the "bro dozer" look will be hard on things...

Good luck on the project though and have fun!
 
Be careful with offset wheels, for one I'm not a fan of the look (personal preference, you do you :)), two the more offset the more leverage it puts on the springs up front which will change the camber and possibly screw with the alignment, and finally 3 the wheel bearings will likely hate life, I don't think they're too beefy to start with, I haven't had a Dana 28 in a while though... If you're talking within an inch or two in offset off of factory ignore this, but the "bro dozer" look will be hard on things...

Good luck on the project though and have fun!
😂 bro dozer. That’s a new one. I’m keeping that for sure. But these wheels are going out like 63/64” or whatever the mm equivalent is. I don’t remember the exact measurement. The wheels we picked are 17” instead of 15. So we’ll be real close at full lock. I might even have to trim a hair somewhere. But anyway, no worries, we don’t drive bro dozers at this house.
 
Be careful with offset wheels, for one I'm not a fan of the look (personal preference, you do you :)), two the more offset the more leverage it puts on the springs up front which will change the camber and possibly screw with the alignment, and finally 3 the wheel bearings will likely hate life, I don't think they're too beefy to start with, I haven't had a Dana 28 in a while though... If you're talking within an inch or two in offset off of factory ignore this, but the "bro dozer" look will be hard on things...

Good luck on the project though and have fun!
I was not talking of anything that stuck way out. I have some on mine and they may be 3/4 inch more than stock with a wider tire on them. If you get them out too far, they throw road crap all over the side of the vehicle and scratch the paint with rocks.

I can't figure out what the difference in the 2.9's were. Is it the 5 speed versus the automatic? My 2.9 would run, and it was completely stock except the electric fan. I got the truck from a co-worker and he was not a car guy, but always commented how much power it had for such a small engine.
 
Ok, probably 24mm offset which is just under an inch, should be fine. Wheel size doesn't change tire size at all, I prefer smaller wheels, my '90 has 35" tires and 15" wheels, but whatever, I'm not modern :), if you stick around 30" tire you shouldn't have to trim much if anything, at most it might be the front of the fenders...

I like bro dozer too, don't know what the youngins are calling that look but that's what I'm sticking with... I see trucks with like 8" lift and shorter than stock tires all the time, they need the lift because the tires stick out all dumb so they don't hit the body while turning but the tires are now under the body, and if they actually ended up offroad you can't let air out of the tires for better ground contact because there's no sidewall... ok, I'll stop sidetracking :)

With all the praise (rusty loves them...) the 2.9L sounds like a decently rounded engine power wise
 
After 35 years of playing with these trucks... I got my first 2.9L a year ago. I can't see myself putting the time... efforts and draining my bank account into one of them. I'm going to just make it right and drive it. I don't care what kinds of gains you can get I personally don't feel it's worth it.

I remember a fella from across the pond that is big into the Cologne engines talking in one of PJ'S threads and basically calling us knuckle heads for doing all that to a 2.9L when we have readily available and nearly endless supply of 4.0L OHV engines. You can do everything they do to a 2.9L to the 4.0L. You will be further ahead in the end.

Whatever you choose to do just enjoy the journey.
 
hi, i know the book and have a copy posted somewhere in the forums for downloads if you need a copy.

I have no experience working on the 2.9 so i can not comment on what you need or want to use from the book there. however, i have used items from it on 2.8 builds.

My 78 Pinto is 2.8 and when i built the engine for the car i used the book for a few pointers. I drilled out the heads to let more water into the passages. I also have access to a couple full on lathes and shop guys where i work so i was able to make the floating rocker guides that he talks about. I also am blessed enough to have a custom cam grinding shop 20 miles away for getting work done. the car got a custom 5500 rpm cam. I can not compare this car or engine to anything except that it gets up and goes when the loud pedal is hit.

currently building another 2.8 for a truck and did the same thing, drilled the heads and will be getting another set of rocker holders made. the cam for this truck will be 4000 rpm cam, custom ground and also they reface tappet lifters.

I found the book has some great information and break down of these engines. and some good references as to what can be done if money is not an object and you want to go that route.

cheers, and i know i can't shed light on your subject any deeper than i did. as stated above, petroleumjunkie is the one to ask if he ever come back on line.

cheers
 
After 35 years of playing with these trucks... I got my first 2.9L a year ago. I can't see myself putting the time... efforts and draining my bank account into one of them. I'm going to just make it right and drive it. I don't care what kinds of gains you can get I personally don't feel it's worth it.

I remember a fella from across the pond that is big into the Cologne engines talking in one of PJ'S threads and basically calling us knuckle heads for doing all that to a 2.9L when we have readily available and nearly endless supply of 4.0L OHV engines. You can do everything they do to a 2.9L to the 4.0L. You will be further ahead in the end.

Whatever you choose to do just enjoy the journey.
As blasphemous as it may sound, if I swap anything it wouldn’t stay a Ford power plant. I’ve budgeted the build for the 2.9. Gains were never really the point. It was the reliability more than anything.
 
hi, i know the book and have a copy posted somewhere in the forums for downloads if you need a copy.

I have no experience working on the 2.9 so i can not comment on what you need or want to use from the book there. however, i have used items from it on 2.8 builds.

My 78 Pinto is 2.8 and when i built the engine for the car i used the book for a few pointers. I drilled out the heads to let more water into the passages. I also have access to a couple full on lathes and shop guys where i work so i was able to make the floating rocker guides that he talks about. I also am blessed enough to have a custom cam grinding shop 20 miles away for getting work done. the car got a custom 5500 rpm cam. I can not compare this car or engine to anything except that it gets up and goes when the loud pedal is hit.

currently building another 2.8 for a truck and did the same thing, drilled the heads and will be getting another set of rocker holders made. the cam for this truck will be 4000 rpm cam, custom ground and also they reface tappet lifters.

I found the book has some great information and break down of these engines. and some good references as to what can be done if money is not an object and you want to go that route.

cheers, and i know i can't shed light on your subject any deeper than i did. as stated above, petroleumjunkie is the one to ask if he ever come back on line.

cheers
He does go way too far with some of that stuff. Am I going custom forged rods? OMG no. Nor am I going custom forged pistons. But, I have a budget for this. And it allows for custom machining and some better parts. If an extra 20hp(which is kind of inconsequential in the end) happens, then so be it. I was more interested in a better oiled valvetrain, rockers that didn’t walk, springs that don’t just quit, a more balanced engine that doesn’t decide to spin a random bearing like it’s a circus trick, etc. You’re the first person, that’s actually said yes, you’ve used his book with success. I have a copy. I came across it for just a few dollars. This book has thrown a lot of curveballs. But half the things he talks about either don’t exist anymore, or have become prohibitive in cost. I’m just glad to hear that someone actually used it successfully.
 
The one thing that happened to my 2.9 and it must happen to a lot of them, is the heads developing cracks. I got a set of the better heads off ebay and swapped them on after I found some cracks. I looked at the bottom end when I had it apart and it looked perfect, so I did nothing to it.

If you can figure out how to keep those pesky valve covers from leaking, that would be something also. I have heard you can get a later model 2.9 valve cover that helps fix the oil leaking problem.
 
I don't have any problem with a nice, clean good running 2.9, even stock. They don't make a ton of power but in a small, light truck like ours, they are good enough. Great engine for a kid - it'll teach him to watch the fluids and doesn't have enough power to get him in trouble.
 

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