Dann757
Active Member
Thanks for all the help with my seized caliper problem!
I freaked out when a new caliper bound up on a new rotor. I got new brake hoses all around, new slaves for the rear brakes and took everything apart, cleaned it all up and put it back together. This truck is really clean for its age so no problems disconnecting brake line fittings.
I bleed brakes by running clear tygon tubing into glass jars with a hole punched in the lid. As per advice, I bled and bled until the fluid was clear and bubble free.
When you run the tubing into a jar, you see when you put the pedal to the floor a lot of fluid comes out, when you release it, some does go backwards up the hose, but not as much as comes out. So with the hose under fluid in the jar, eventually all the air gets bled out. This is a way to do it "one man".
I have also cut a 2x4 in the past to fit between the pedal and the seat so as to be able to shut the bleeders and come back and release the pedal. Too much work though. This way worked out good for me. I also put never-seize on the bleeder screws to make the threads air tight while bleeding and to prevent them from corroding up over time.
Brakes working good now, but I still don't understand how new hoses solved the problem, the old ones didn't look that bad at all to me; no cracks and still relatively flexible.
I freaked out when a new caliper bound up on a new rotor. I got new brake hoses all around, new slaves for the rear brakes and took everything apart, cleaned it all up and put it back together. This truck is really clean for its age so no problems disconnecting brake line fittings.
I bleed brakes by running clear tygon tubing into glass jars with a hole punched in the lid. As per advice, I bled and bled until the fluid was clear and bubble free.
When you run the tubing into a jar, you see when you put the pedal to the floor a lot of fluid comes out, when you release it, some does go backwards up the hose, but not as much as comes out. So with the hose under fluid in the jar, eventually all the air gets bled out. This is a way to do it "one man".
I have also cut a 2x4 in the past to fit between the pedal and the seat so as to be able to shut the bleeders and come back and release the pedal. Too much work though. This way worked out good for me. I also put never-seize on the bleeder screws to make the threads air tight while bleeding and to prevent them from corroding up over time.
Brakes working good now, but I still don't understand how new hoses solved the problem, the old ones didn't look that bad at all to me; no cracks and still relatively flexible.