Brake Problem Need Help

[Dann757]

I just got my 93 Ranger 2.3 5spd 2wd. 42k orig miles, but a lot of issues from not being used much.
It siezed up the right front caliper on a test drive, really smoked it. I just got new front rotors, calipers and pads and rebuilt both sides, totally cleaned and repacked the bearings.

My brand new (rebuilt) caliper is doing the same thing!!! WTF?? I just blued up my new rotor from the heat and of course I'm freaking out. What the heck could be causing this? I made sure all caliper and mount surfaces were clean and slightly lubed with never-seize. The pads are not binding.
It's a PEP Boys reman caliper, could it be the caliper with a bad phenolic piston in it? I don't want to return it if I'm not sure it's that.
I just pulled the caliper and pads and extended the piston onto a piece of 2x4. It seems bound when I try to push it back in with a c clamp, but then it goes back in. SUX

 

[gotmudd]

did you make sure the rotor was trued? on some fullsize models where the rotor seperates from the hub[ the kind you have to drive the studs out to seperate the rotor/hub assembly] you have to have the rotors machined or turned for tolerances. not sure about caliper bind, unless you didn't get the c-clamp centered in the piston bore and the piston tried to cock at an angle.

 

[kevinsranger]

your brake line may be collapsed or clogged, check that first

 

[Dann757]

Brake line not clogged, fluid poured out when I separated it from the caliper, and no problem bleeding the brakes. I'll get a mike on the new rotor and see. I extended the piston to see if it would put more fluid to the seal to lube it.
Since this has recurred with all new parts, I don't know how to troubleshoot it. Maybe the caliper mount is bent and causing the piston to cock in the bore. I went to get another caliper and they won't have one until Thursday. I was going to just buy it and return the other new one under warranty if it solved the problem; this is my usual wild goose chase way of auto mechanics. SUX

 

[Earl43P]

I have personally experienced (on my own vehicles) three front brake flex lines that failed and acted just that way (perhaps not exactly, two were severe pad wear on the bad side, found by following my nose - hot wheel, brake smell)). I have read and heard of many more.

The problem isn't "getting pressurized fluid" to the caliper. The problem is "releasing that pressure, once applied". Your flex line is acting like a check valve, due to internal deterioration.

Once you replace that flex line (I'd do both), try to blow through it backwards, while flexing it different ways. See?

 

[tn600]

If you have new or rebuild parts and they fit right, (on jacks no binding), and since brake fluid had a chance to boil (from lockup) Bleed,Bleed,Bleed and Bleed your bake System again, new brake fluid to all brakes. With that done take Earl43P's advice those line can with age act as a check value. Look for abnormal swelling when brakes applied. Good luck

 

[Mark_88]

Sounds like what Earl says...when you replace the flex lines (and they are pretty cheap compared to the rotors and pads) make sure you follow the instructions on how to handle the line...mishandling these lines can result in the same situation repeating itself...

 

[Dann757]

Thanks guys. I found I need to replace the wheel cylinders in the back anyway so I'm ordering new brake hoses too. I had the caliper off today and no jamming on the jack, seems to move smoothly. No seizing on a short test drive, rotors were hot to the touch though, but not over 212f. I guess any rotor is going to be hot after driving. If a new caliper is doing the same thing as the old one, it probably isn't the caliper (I hope).

 

[Mark_88]

My calipers used to stick too...and the wheels would get very hot...that's a good thing about steel rims...they can take the heat...but aluminum rims tend to dissipate the heat better...not sure how much heat they can actually take before they start to weaken though...best to reduce the heat as much as possible and a more open rim will allow better cooling I would imagine...