Bought a BII

[rusty ol ranger]

86 2.9/5sp with a mitsu trans and 3.45 rear.

Its pretty solid, frame/shackles etc are excellent. Drivers floorpan was replaced. This is the only spot im concerned a bit with...

Its much more solid bodywise/floorwise then my ranger.

It needs brake work, it stops but pedal is soft. Rear hatch is hitting the bumper for some reason? The headliner has some creative fixing. The engine runs....but its flooding out....bad. But the 2 minutes i heard it run it sounded good and strong. Coolant is full lol.

Kid was 17, said he drove it 3 hours home. Then it started running shitty. He thought it needed a rebuild. Hiss face kinda drooped when i told him it was too much fuel and probably a sensor/regulator issue.

Has a new fuel tank, gauges work....it shifts good from 2hi to 4hi but i couldnt get 4 low....but i didnt try very hard.

Im hoping to fix the brakes/flooding and DD it and patch it up as i go. Probably wheel it a bit. It needs new rear springs...its saggy in the ass.

Got it for 1000 bucks.

What do yall think? Score? Or was i an idiot?

 

[sgtsandman]

Overall, it sounds like a score. I guess it depends on how good you are at sheet metal work. I can do it but it won't be pretty. Functional but not pretty. Mainly because I don't know how to weld and don't have a welder.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Overall, it sounds like a score. I guess it depends on how good you are at sheet metal work. I can do it but it won't be pretty. Functional but not pretty. Mainly because I don't know how to weld and don't have a welder.

Basically where im at

 

[RobbieD]

1) SCORE!

2) No comment (we're all idiots here, for loving these old trucks the way that we do).

3) Congratulations!

In case you've never had a B2, once you make it a runner, YOU'LL FREAKIN' LOVE DRIVING IT!


It might even cure you of that pitiful Jeep disease . . .

 

[rusty ol ranger]

1) SCORE!

2) No comment (we're all idiots here, for loving these old trucks the way that we do).

3) Congratulations!

In case you've never had a B2, once you make it a runner, YOU'LL FREAKIN' LOVE DRIVING IT!


It might even cure you of that pitiful Jeep disease . . .

I actually did have one like 20 years ago. I did love it lol. But i kinda got out of the RBV game for a long time untill i got my ranger in 2018. kinda reignited my love affair with these little turds lol.

Oh and i forgot...its got a normal U jointed driveshaft that looks fairly new

 

[scotts90ranger]

Not having the dumb CV rear driveshaft is a plus!

Not getting into low range isn't that bad, likely an adjustment in the shift linkage, most people don't understand it... just loosen the one smaller bolt, pull the shifter back and get into the 4 hi detent then crawl underneath and put the linkage to the point where the flat sits against the shifter and tighten the small bolt, the rest will work from there... hopefully that makes sense...

Get yourself a cheap wire welder and play around, stuff doesn't have to be perfect to be structural... the yeswelders online are apparently good cheap options... Flux core isn't ideal but will for sure get the job done, I know your preferences

For the runability, I would check the vacuum hose to the map sensor and probably just change the O2 sensor...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

By today’s prices, sounds like a score. The hatch meeting the rear bumper likely is either rear body mounts, body rot along the bottom of the body by the hatch, or a bit of both.

As for a welder, you can always look for a used one. I picked up a Lincoln Weld-PAC awhile back used. Had feed issues but all it needed was a new liner. I wanted a portable 120v welder and that fit the bill because I wanted something with more adjustment than just high or low and wire feed.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Not having the dumb CV rear driveshaft is a plus!

Not getting into low range isn't that bad, likely an adjustment in the shift linkage, most people don't understand it... just loosen the one smaller bolt, pull the shifter back and get into the 4 hi detent then crawl underneath and put the linkage to the point where the flat sits against the shifter and tighten the small bolt, the rest will work from there... hopefully that makes sense...

Get yourself a cheap wire welder and play around, stuff doesn't have to be perfect to be structural... the yeswelders online are apparently good cheap options... Flux core isn't ideal but will for sure get the job done, I know your preferences

For the runability, I would check the vacuum hose to the map sensor and probably just change the O2 sensor...

I got it into low when i got home. It was running so rich it didnt have the ass in high to hop over the little bucket edge on tge dolly. Had to drop it in low lol.

i got a feeling its the MAP. Its acting very similar to my ranger when mine took a shit. I unplugged a vaccum line to let some more air in and it ran slight better.

There is aome odd looking...um...fixes under the hood but nothing that looks super serious.

I do have a wire welder....guess nows good of time as any. If i pull up the carpet it shouldnt be a huge deal to patch what needs patched.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

By today’s prices, sounds like a score. The hatch meeting the rear bumper likely is either rear body mounts, body rot along the bottom of the body by the hatch, or a bit of both.

As for a welder, you can always look for a used one. I picked up a Lincoln Weld-PAC awhile back used. Had feed issues but all it needed was a new liner. I wanted a portable 120v welder and that fit the bill because I wanted something with more adjustment than just high or low and wire feed.

Yeah im gonna look into that hatch. Im not 100% sure it has the correct rear bumper to be honest....it has 3 hitch holes (never seen an RBV like that....and they dont look home drilled) and something seems weird about it...like its to rounded or something.

oh as a side note...im kinda in love with towing on a dolly. Jeep didnt even notice it besides kicking down a bit more on hills...i was getting 16-17mpg crusin 60 in 8th