Body Mount Torque & Tire Size (1992 Ranger)

[rangerenthiusiast]

Hey, guys.

Bought the Prothane bushings for the body mounts on my ’92 Ranger Custom 4x4 (4.0, A4LD). Finally ready to tighten them down, but no torque settings came with them (the instructions said to consult my repair manual and Haynes has no info). Anyone know what the correct torque is?

Also, I currently have what I believe are the 15x7 stock steel rims on her, along with 235/75R15s. Although they have mega tread left on them, I may have to replace the tires, due to splits deep down inside the treads (no idea how this occurred, I only found out it was like this after I bought the truck - maybe the PO overinflated them at some point).

I think I remember reading that for this year Ranger, 235 75R15s are the biggest I can go without a lift or cutting (neither of which is desirable to me). This makes it kind of hard, since a lot of what I see on Craigslist are 16” tires, 15” 31s and 33s, etc. Can anyone verify if this is true? Anyone know what else will fit besides what I have on there without modification? I’d love something a little wider, but not sure if that’s do-able.

PS - I checked several tire/wheel fitment threads in the Tech section, but they did not contain the above info (they assumed a lift is added, gave info on bolt patterns, etc).

Thanks.

 

[adsm08]

Body torque is "tight AF w/ threadlock".

Those are about the biggest tires you are going to fit. 31's should just fit. They fit mine with minor trimming, and my wheel wells are smaller than yours. I still get a little rub if I hit bumps too fast, but my bump stops are gone.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Body torque is "tight AF w/ threadlock".

Those are about the biggest tires you are going to fit. 31's should just fit. They fit mine with minor trimming, and my wheel wells are smaller than yours. I still get a little rub if I hit bumps too fast, but my bump stops are gone.

Okay, thanks. Yeah, I was planning to use thread lock, but TAF? Really? Won’t it crush the bushings?

 

[adsm08]

I usually do until the bushings start to bulge a bit, then back off and retighten a bit. I don't have an actual spec.

Your tire cracks are dry rot.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

I usually do until the bushings start to bulge a bit, then back off and retighten a bit. I don't have an actual spec.

Your tire cracks are dry rot.

Thanks man, I’ll plan on doing the same.

Yeah, I always thought it was dry rot when I first found it. But I’ve never seen dry rot affect the inside of the tread, while leaving the outside face unaffected. I guess it happens, but... Weird.

 

[adsm08]

I've seen it a few times, it is unusual though. It usually occurs because someone used a protective spray on the sidewalls. Some sort of UV protecting tire-shine.

It should also be noted that I have rubber body bushings, not poly bushings. My method will damage poly bushings.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

I've seen it a few times, it is unusual though. It usually occurs because someone used a protective spray on the sidewalls. Some sort of UV protecting tire-shine.

It should also be noted that I have rubber body bushings, not poly bushings. My method will damage poly bushings.

OH! Glad you mentioned that. As I say, I have the Prothane bushings, which are poly. Anyone know how tight I should go?

 

[BlackBII]

OH! Glad you mentioned that. As I say, I have the Prothane bushings, which are poly. Anyone know how tight I should go?

I don't have a spec for you, but I tightened mine with a regular 1/2" drive ratchet and used regular nuts with split lock washers. If I had to guess, somewhere around 50-60 ft-lbs. Not crazy tight. Haven't had any movement or loosening from what I can tell. I have the Poly bushings.

I have the factory service manual at home. It might have a spec in there; I'll check for you.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

I don't have a spec for you, but I tightened mine with a regular 1/2" drive ratchet and used regular nuts with split lock washers. If I had to guess, somewhere around 50-60 ft-lbs. Not crazy tight. Haven't had any movement or loosening from what I can tell. I have the Poly bushings.

I have the factory service manual at home. It might have a spec in there; I'll check for you.

Hey, thanks brotha!

 

[bobbywalter]

you should have the steel inserts where it collars in the frame hole. assuming you repaired your holes back to spec, mine are 60ish ft lb. actually had a spec on the sheet in the kit. the baby ones on the core were a bit less...40 or so.


but i dont have that kind of stuff anymore in the front for mounts.


is it this style?

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/ptp-6-106-bl_ml.jpg[/IMG]

Yessireebob, that’s them! Thanks for the great info! Hadn’t thought about the fact that the little ones that go on the radiator support bottom should be torqued a bit less than the beefier ones.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

I don't have a spec for you, but I tightened mine with a regular 1/2" drive ratchet and used regular nuts with split lock washers. If I had to guess, somewhere around 50-60 ft-lbs. Not crazy tight. Haven't had any movement or loosening from what I can tell. I have the Poly bushings.

I have the factory service manual at home. It might have a spec in there; I'll check for you.

Hey, Bill.

Did you ever get a chance to check on this? I started tightening mine down today. Started with the biggest ones, at the rear of the cab. Turned the torque wrench all the way down to 40 ft lbs and the tall bushings on top were already bulging pretty good in the center. 60 seems like it would just crush them.