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Blown freeze plug


superdave1984

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Mar 25, 2008
Messages
1,215
Age
59
City
KY
Transmission
Manual
So my daughter's car, 99 Mercury Tracer, 2.0SPI just blew the freeze plug on the back side of the engine. Of course while I was driving so it's MY fault. Anyway my question is this: Why is it now unable to start? Acts like it isn't getting fuel and the starter spins really loud. There isn't any water in the oil and the oil level is fine. I shut it off immediately when it blew the plug. There was a noticeable knocking sound right before I shut it off but I can't identify it. I pulled the plugs and the pistons look fine, nothing looks weird in there that I can see through the spark plug hole. Any idea's? I checked the timing belt and it is fine. It has almost no fuel pressure, but you can hear the pump run for about a second when you turn the key on. I wondered if it was the inertia switch somehow, but wouldn't that keep the pump from running at all?
 
So my daughter's car, 99 Mercury Tracer, 2.0SPI just blew the freeze plug on the back side of the engine. Of course while I was driving so it's MY fault. Anyway my question is this: Why is it now unable to start? Acts like it isn't getting fuel and the starter spins really loud. There isn't any water in the oil and the oil level is fine. I shut it off immediately when it blew the plug. There was a noticeable knocking sound right before I shut it off but I can't identify it. I pulled the plugs and the pistons look fine, nothing looks weird in there that I can see through the spark plug hole. Any idea's? I checked the timing belt and it is fine. It has almost no fuel pressure, but you can hear the pump run for about a second when you turn the key on. I wondered if it was the inertia switch somehow, but wouldn't that keep the pump from running at all?

Inertia switch should kill the pump completely.

How did you know you blew a freeze plug while you were driving it?
 
my guess is it overheated and bent a valve .. but thats just me
 
you may have kissed a valve but that depends on if its an interference engine or not.

replace the freeze plug on the block
check compression on each cylinder (if one is out over 10% you have to change rings)
- this can also determind a kissed valve
check fuel pressure on feed and return line (35-45psi i beleave but check the spec)
- if thats good check before and after filter
- its a ford product so you may run into quick cuplers which will give you trouble.
remove head and check for the bent valve
- check prices on a previously enjoyed head just incase it goes for the worse for the valve
 
Inertia switch should kill the pump completely.

How did you know you blew a freeze plug while you were driving it?

I didn't know that was what it was until I got it home and started checking things out. It only ran a few seconds after the plug blew and the temp gauge never got above the normal range.
 
Checked compression today. 3 have about 40 and one has about 20. Not good. The pressure didn't bleed down after I stopped so it's even more puzzling. I figured if the head was blown then the compression would bleed down after I stopped spinning the engine. Guess I'm pulling a head this weekend.
 
sounds like you blew a head gasket. Hate to tell you this but you didnt shut it off right after it blew. The temp gauge never went up because it leaked all the coolant out very quickly and a temp sender or cts cannot read air temp very well so it overheated probably pretty badly.
 
Check the cam timing before you pull the whole thing apart. If it's jumped a few cogs it will give a low compression reading but will hold pressure on a leakdown test.
 
Check the cam timing before you pull the whole thing apart. If it's jumped a few cogs it will give a low compression reading but will hold pressure on a leakdown test.

thats exactly what it sounds like. the 2.0 spi's are also notorious for throwing valve seats but it doesnt sound like it on this one...
 
Check the cam timing before you pull the whole thing apart. If it's jumped a few cogs it will give a low compression reading but will hold pressure on a leakdown test.

This would possibly answer some of my questions. I'll try that this evening and see how it looks.
 
OK timing was on spec. Pulled the head, can't see any damage anywhere. Valves look fine and seem to seat correctly. Cylinders show no signs of anything bad. Pistons look perfect on top. There was oil between the block and the head gasket. So I cleaned everything up, put on a new head gasket, new head bolts, torqued em down, put it all back together and it still won't start. I haven't checked the compression again but I can't see why it would be bad now. Unless there is some hidden damage like broken rings or something. But seems like that would have left some marks on the cylinders. Confused.
 

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