blew a brake line

[EMB1230]

My truck blew a brake line back in July and it's been sitting since then. It's the rear line coming from the RABS control unit, the leak is right before where it connects to the flexible hose. A buddy of mine just looked at it for me and said that it looks like I'll have to drop the gas tank to replace that line. is he wrong or will I have to do that? Also, if that is the case, could we just pull the bed instead?

 

[adsm08]

You can do it without dropping the tank. It is a little tricky, but you can do it easy enough. Worst part is fishing it up in there.

 

[bobbywalter]

just remember to tape off or put a plug on the end of the line before you gets to ramminz.

 

[EMB1230]

ok another question, HYPOTHETICALLY, and I can't stress that enough, what if for the time being, I just put a plug in at the MC. How bad of an idea is that? PS my parking brake IS fully functional.

 

[Mark_88]

Well, it is a bad idea because you do reduce your braking power by about 30 to 40% depending on the load split...

But I will say I did exactly that on my Ford Tempo and drove it for quite a while till I could get it fixed properly...and the Tempo actually had 4 lines from the MC...so I only reduced my braking power by one line as opposed to two on the Ranger configuration...

I replaced my Ranger rear lines with the tank in so it is possible to do it that way...it feeds through the rail and the tank is not in the way from what I recall...never worked on a vehicle with ABS so there may be other complications...if you prepare the flare before hand and cover it over as Bobby suggested before you feed it through you won't get any crud in the line.

 

[EMB1230]

well, I almost never have anything in my bed, but when I do it's usually nothing heavier than a weeks worth of groceries.

 

[bobbywalter]

the thing about running with fronts only leave no safety factor.

if you have to to get by for a minute remember the front will lock much more easily especially when its wet out....more room to stop!!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

the thing about running with fronts only leave no safety factor.

if you have to to get by for a minute remember the front will lock much more easily especially when its wet out....leave more room to stop!!

fixed it for you,

Richard

 

[wizkid00104]

When I pulled my tank I found 3 brake lines. They just kept stuffing new ones in there...

If you have to replace it, I'd recommend using NiCopp line. It is a nickel copper alloy and you can just shape it with your hands. It should long outlast a coated steel line and being from Wisconsin, I imagine you see some rock salt. I'd also use brass tube nuts for the fittings. www.allensfasteners.com has them really cheap. Advance had them for like $4 each.

 

[kevinsranger]

When I pulled my tank I found 3 brake lines. They just kept stuffing new ones in there...

If you have to replace it, I'd recommend using NiCopp line. It is a nickel copper alloy and you can just shape it with your hands. It should long outlast a coated steel line and being from Wisconsin, I imagine you see some rock salt. I'd also use brass tube nuts for the fittings. www.allensfasteners.com has them really cheap. Advance had them for like $4 each.

+1 on the nicopp, i ran my bake brakes with it, its so much easier to work with and doesnt rust!!

riding around with just front brakes works, i did it for a year, but you wear your radius arm bushings fast and you can brake for anything in rain or snow, you just slide around

 

[wizkid00104]

+1 on the nicopp, i ran my bake brakes with it, its so much easier to work with and doesnt rust!!

riding around with just front brakes works, i did it for a year, but you wear your radius arm bushings fast and you can brake for anything in rain or snow, you just slide around

If it works it works, but I'd kick myself if I got in an accident because of it.

 

[cvar]

Remove the bed (6 bolts), and the skid plate (4 bolts), and gas tank (2 bolts). It's WAY easier that way. You'll see. Siphon out gas, if needed.

Photos are here ==> http://imgur.com/a/sUnMy

Yes, +1 on the nickel-copper (NiCu) cuz it's a pleasure to bend & flare, and won't rust. Autozone sells a roll of the stuff.

Tricky bit was clipping it to the frame, since the original plastic clips are too big (ie, meant for spring-wound tubing). I couldn't find any suitable replacement clips. Anybody else find em?

 

[bobbywalter]

Remove the bed (6 bolts), and the skid plate (4 bolts), and gas tank (2 bolts). It's WAY easier that way. You'll see. Siphon out gas, if needed.

Photos are here ==> http://imgur.com/a/sUnMy

Yes, +1 on the nickel-copper (NiCu) cuz it's a pleasure to bend & flare, and won't rust. Autozone sells a roll of the stuff.

Tricky bit was clipping it to the frame, since the original plastic clips are too big (ie, meant for spring-wound tubing). I couldn't find any suitable replacement clips. Anybody else find em?

if you go to this point, pull the tank and all the bracketry for the bridging, and spring hangers, and wire wheel it all up....and paint it all as it will be half rotted already.


waaaaay way way worth the efforrt.

 

[Mark_88]

Tricky bit was clipping it to the frame, since the original plastic clips are too big (ie, meant for spring-wound tubing). I couldn't find any suitable replacement clips. Anybody else find em?

I managed to use, uh, ahem, zip ties...lol

Last I checked they were still there and still holding both the brake and fuel lines where I put them 6 years ago...

One thing the OP might consider is hanging them higher...mine were originally run along the bottom of the rail where all the salt and other crud manages to build itself into a nice little pile of line disintegrating sludge...I moved them up as much as I could to keep them out of the way and to try to prevent the premature rotting...hopefully...