Bleeding brakes 93 Ranger

[macx]

I put new shoes on the back axle, then started the bleeding process.

I just bought the truck as a backup, lots of things had been neglected.
Brake fluid very dark, but brakes seemed to work fine.

I've got a brake vacuum bleeder, but can't draw any of the old fluid out.
Actually, got maybe 1/4 cup but now I can't get any more. Just needed
new shoes / pads and fresh fluid.

Have 20+" of vacuum on it and nothing's coming out. I've also tried
leaving vacuum on it and pumping the pedal and that doesn't work either.

Looked in my manual, seems to indicate the brakes can be bled in the
normal manual way - after they describe how to bleed the master cyl
and the ABS valve but then they discuss manually bleeding the wheel
cylinders and don't seem to indicate anything has to be done other than
the normal bleeding procedure.

I looked in the tech library but that all seems to detail with upgrades,
repairs & modifications, nothing about plain old ordinary bleeding.

Normally, the vacuum will pull the fluid thru without pushing the brake pedal
up and down.

What's the trick, or do I have something wrong somewhere?

Thanks for info - I need to get this thing back on the road this weekend.

 

[scotts90ranger]

my bet is the bleeder valves are plugged with rust or other goo, that should work.

 

[macx]

I wish, but I've already tried that. The RR did have a little crud in it.

I did a Search and found an online Ford mechanical help forum that suggested one or
both lines maybe plugged - he suggested cracking the lines loose starting from the
back and working toward the distribution block (ABS valve?).

He also said if it wasn't possible to get fluid out of either rear line, that the
distribution block itself may be plugged.

The way the old brake fluid looks it wouldn't surprise me.

I'm going to try the left rear next and see what happens there.

I did notice it was also said pressure had to be built up on the system before
cracking a bleeder screw. I don't have any help - but I think I can build pressure
then block the brake pedal down then go crack the bleed screw.

I'll try that, too, and post if I have any success.

 

[macx]

Well, nowhere does it say it's gotta be easy.

Followed the advice of the guy in the post I mentioned above and
cracked the lines starting at the back bleeders and worked my way
forward.

Nothing coming out all the way up to the (rear) ABS hydraulic control valve.
But plenty coming out freely on the in side of that valve (comes directly from
the mstr cyl).

And of course a rebuilt is over $100 and nobody stocks one locally.

So, having less than satisfactory experience on another vehicle in winter weather
in Kansas City MO with rear-only ABS, I went to AZone and picked up a 1/4"
(SAE) brake line union and bypassed that valve.

Now I've got fluid coming gangbusters.

So far have pulled a quart of fluid out of just the back with the vac pump
and it's still coming dark, altho it has lightened up fromt he color of way too old
motor oil to maple syrup color. No wonder that valve was stuck! Hard telling
how long it had been since the back brakes even worked!

Anybody that neglects a vehicle that bad ought to be slapped every morning
before they get out of bed!

And thank goodness for the internet!~ I grew up learning how to wrench
before anyone ever heard of computers, let alone the internet. Had to either
figure it out for myself or call somebody or drive somewhere or pay to have it
fixed.

EDIT: Got the front pads changed - never seen that type of caliper mounting
system before, actually pretty easy.

Anyway, no surprise at all that one of the front calipers leaked. Was flat amazed
when I found them available locally for only $17 ea rebuilt exchange! With 75k
miles and the existing fluid in that bad of shape, I'm just gonna go ahead and
change out both of them.

Trouble is, never did get under the truck today to swap the pilot bearing (or what
was left of it, just the shell!), put in the new clutch (flywheel was fine with just
a little TLC with some 600 grit emery on a block) and throwout / slave and
new clutch hose - the previous idiot owner had completely busted the little white
plastic release thing apparently trying to do something to it before - and reinstall the trans.
So, a new hose now also. Surprising what that little bugger cost! Best deal
I could find was on Fleabay for about $65.

Saving the trans rebuild for next summer, gotta get this thing on the road - getting
kinda cold on the bike ride to work in the AM - most of the 45 miles in the 30's last
Thursday with a couple miles in the mid 20's.

 

[rkneeshaw]

Glad you got it fixed, I too just did the same thing with my abs valve. I think mine was still allowing fluid to flow ok but I had the ABS light on the dash and replacing the valve was over $100, so I bypassed it and pulled the bulb form the indicator on the dash.

I just changed my rear wheel cylinders too, they were only $12 each at a local parts store so I thought why not? Mine had 200k miles on them When I went to bleed them the process was just the same as I had expected: had my wife pump the pedal while I opened and closed the bleeder valves, nothing fancy there.

Funny you replaced the clutch hydrolic line too, I just did that myself, same situation with that white plastic sleeve that releases the line from the slave, must be a common problem where people dont care if they mash it all up. I probably got the same one you did, it was over $100 from the dealer but got one for around $60 on amazon.com. Came with reservior and master cylinder. Made by perfection clutch I think, looks like a good quality unit.

 

[macx]

Yes, it's just about shocking to find ANY auto part at a reasonable price any more!
I've had very good luck with Rock Auto, been buying more and more there. They ship very quickly, but it helps to watch when you get in the Shopping Cart screen how many places they're shipping the parts from. It sometimes pays to buy a part that's just a little more than another one to get it to ship out of the same warehouse, worthwhile save on shipping.

I had already ordered the slave, so looked for a hose by itself.

Guy on ebay who was selling a bunch of different ones had one for the Ranger
at I think a dab over $60. Got it real quick, looks fine.

Looks like that little roll pin at the Mstr Cyl might be fun?

The slave came pre-bled, so am gonna have to figure out bleeding to the slave end of
the hose after I get it on the mstr cyl.

Looking at it, there's a spring loaded one way (?) check valve in the slave end of
the hose, I suppose pressurize it, or hold that valve open a bit and slowly apply
the clutch pedal?

If that IS a one way valve in the slave end of the hose, how does it release the pressure?

Oh, suppose there's something in the slave line that holds it open.

I'll figure it out eventually.

There was no warning lite about the ABS, prev owner must have pulled it.
That thing was locked up tight, though. Pulled 20" vacuum on it and nary
a drop thru it.

When I decided to replace the calipers, I was shocked when I emptied the fluid
out of it after disconnecting the hose. Even tho I had bled about 1/2 quart thru
that right front caliper, something about the consistency of a glob of cold molasses plopped out of it when I tipped it up with the hose hole down to drain it.

Thought I'd get the trans back in it this weekend, but screwed around a whole day
just on those darn brakes. Oh, well, I bought some insulated bibs so I can ride my
bike again this week without freezing. Low's gonna be in the 20's in the morning ride.
Even with heated seats and grips, an electric up-down windshield, and a lot of "tupperware" that pretty much keeps the direct wind off me, it still gets cold in 40 miles.

Every different vehicle I've ever owned has been it's own learning curve.