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bleeding a clutch


83RangerBill

Active Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2010
Messages
42
Vehicle Year
1983
Transmission
Manual
I'm working on a 86 ranger 5 speed manual. I'm trying to bleed the clutch and having no luck I read the tech article on it and when I open the bleeder no fluid will flow out unless I pump the clutch and then its not much. I'll pump the clut h about 4 times hold to the floor then have my assistant open the bleeder sometimes fluid comes out a d other times it will not I'm stuck please help
 
First, you need to keep the fluid level up in the clutch reservoir. If you don't, then you'll be drawing air into the system as fast as you're bleeding it out.

To bleed a clutch, have an assistant sit in the drivers seat, and push and hold the clutch pedal all the way down. Lie on your back under the transmission, and open the bleeder screw just a bit, maybe 1/4 turn. Allow air and oil to drip out for a few seconds, then tighten the bleeder screw. Tell your assistant to release the clutch pedal, then send them to check the clutch reservoir, and add oil to bring it back up to max, if it's low.

Repeat this a dozen or more times, until the clutch feels good and firm. As long as the pedal feels soft, or you're getting bubbles out with the oil, keep repeating the process.

Never allow the clutch pedal to come back up while the bleeder screw is open, or air may get drawn back into the system through the bleeder screw.

Spott
 
Last edited:
I've been making sure the level is up I have the front of the truck raised up. Stupid question does the cap have to be on. And its not gravity flowing like the tech article says. I crawled under the truck and the slave moves just a little side to side

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The cap does not have to be on while bleeding. Put the cap on while driving to keep oil in the system, and dirt out.

My clutch didn't gravity drain either, it was like the line between the reservoir and the master cylinder was mostly blocked. The pedal would very slowly come back up after each bleeding stroke. Regular use of the pedal was normal, it just struggled to draw fluid in from the reservoir. I considered, at one point, trying to rod-out the obstruction with a piece of bicycle cable, but about then the pedal firmed up and I didn't need to worry about it anymore.

Nevertheless, oil had to be forced from the master to the slave (and out the bleed screw) by the pedal stroke, and drawn back in from the reservoir to replace it. Gravity wasn't strong enough to bleed it on its own.
 
I have a tip...but it's not for the "faint of heart".
The MC on the Ranger slants uphill toward the firewall. The output hose that runs to the slave cyl is located at the bottom of the MC. This results in a large volume of air becoming trapped in the top,or uphill,portion of the MC,and is very nearly impossible to get out with traditional bleeding procedures.
My "quick and dirty fix" is this: Pile some rags or towels inside the cab,below the MC rod. COMPLETELY fill the resevior w/fluid. Remove the circlip that retains the rod and "Guts" of the MC,inside the cab. QUICKLY pull the "GUTS"out of the MC and,as fast as possible PUT IT BACK IN. Almost all in one motion. Out,and In. You will see a big "glurg" of trapped air escape from the MC as well as a considerable amount of fluid. (The reason for the rags or towel on the floor!) The tricky part is to replace the circlip. (YOU CAN DO IT!)
Then top off the resevoir and then use the standard bleeding procedure (explained VERY well above,in another members post) to finish the job.
Another,but more difficult, procedure I've seen is to bench bleed the MC and hose as a unit,then install the 2 at once. I can never seem to pull it off as jockeying the MC into place w/hose attached,AND then routing the hose to the Trans has never worked for me. YMMV Good Luck!
 
I bleed mine using the instructions in the manual and had no issues. On the slave side get some clear plastic running from an aquarium supply store and bleed until no bubbles can be seen coming out of the bleed screw. Works well for brakes too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk
 
Alright got it blead had to pump it quite a bit the took the cap from the reservoir drilled a hole attached a nylon hose barb to it then used vacuum to pull the air from the top of the mc. Worked like a champ slowly pumped it halfway down twice and had perfect pedal thanks again for all the help

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 

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