Bleeder Screws?

[Joeshark]

Hey Guys,

So I wanted to bleed the brakes today, because feels like maybe pedals are a little too mushy?

Any how, This would be easy of course if this truck didn't have a nice smattering of rust underside.

I was running my fingers around one of the rear screws and noticed that I shaved about a mm of material off it just by doing that. Now it is about a 7mm instead of 8, (I may be off on the numbers).
Anyhow should I be worried that if I grab at this one with a vise grip I might actually just crumple it to pieces?
These things are frozen in, I've soaked already with PB. Of course I'm wanting to change them out.
Should I just go at them with the vise grip & hope for the best???

Or is there a better way?




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[Ranger850]

If you are replacing them, do whatever you have to to get them out. If you have to reuse them, DO NOT USE VICE GRIPS, go get a bleeder wrench. It should be a 7 one one end and 8 on the other. A bleeder wrench is almost the only way without doing damage. Soak them in pb blaster first.

 

[RonD]

Assuming Calipers?

If rear slaves then just get new ones they are not expensive

And you have stripped the nut?
If not use box end or socket first, then vise grip as last resort

Never crushed one but have broken them off


Get some spare bleeders and have correct size EZE out and drill bit, be careful brake fluid is flammable

 

[Joeshark]

If you are replacing them, do whatever you have to to get them out. If you have to reuse them, DO NOT USE VICE GRIPS, go get a bleeder wrench. It should be a 7 one one end and 8 on the other. A bleeder wrench is almost the only way without doing damage. Soak them in pb blaster first.

Definitely not going to reuse, all of them are shot [emoji35].
At least they are showing over night with PB blaster, maybe tomorrow will be easier, I hope.

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[Joeshark]

Assuming Calipers?

If rear slaves then just get new ones they are not expensive

And you have stripped the nut?
If not use box end or socket first, then vise grip as last resort

Never crushed one but have broken them off


Get some spare bleeders and have correct size EZE out and drill bit, be careful brake fluid is flammable

Front & rears are stuck.

When you say Rear Slaves, what do you mean by that?



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[pjtoledo]

there is a penetrant that freezes the parts. that causes contraction and can break the rust bond.
clean the hole real good, put the tube all the way in and freeze it a few times.

its imperative that torque is applied properly, that is twisting but not bending the wrench sideways. sometimes its best to use a socket with a long extension so you can steady the head and all power goes into twisting, not pulling the socket sideways.

if its rusted badly try forcing the next smaller size wrench on, use either metric or fractions, whichever works.

if all else fails, you'll have to replace the wheel cylinder,,,,if you can get the rusted line off

 

[adsm08]

I'm with Ron, do what you gotta do. 6 point socket or wrench first, then vice grips as a last resort.

If you end up destroying them, just get new wheel cylinders for the rear. They are cheap, and you don't even have to fully assemble the brakes to replace them.

Plus the brake system is supposed to be sealed, so if you are getting squishy and don't see an obvious external leak, there is a good chance you need at least one (which means you need at least two, always do brake stuff in pairs) wheel cylinders any way.

 

[Joeshark]

Thanks PJ

there is a penetrant that freezes the parts. that causes contraction and can break the rust bond.
clean the hole real good, put the tube all the way in and freeze it a few times.

its imperative that torque is applied properly, that is twisting but not bending the wrench sideways. sometimes its best to use a socket with a long extension so you can steady the head and all power goes into twisting, not pulling the socket sideways.

if its rusted badly try forcing the next smaller size wrench on, use either metric or fractions, whichever works.

if all else fails, you'll have to replace the wheel cylinder,,,,if you can get the rusted line off

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[Joeshark]

I'm with Ron, do what you gotta do. 6 point socket or wrench first, then vice grips as a last resort.

If you end up destroying them, just get new wheel cylinders for the rear. They are cheap, and you don't even have to fully assemble the brakes to replace them.

Plus the brake system is supposed to be sealed, so if you are getting squishy and don't see an obvious external leak, there is a good chance you need at least one (which means you need at least two, always do brake stuff in pairs) wheel cylinders any way.

Thanks adsm08, This is what I'm dealing with in the rear.

Been a while since I've done anything brake related. The wheel cylinders are behind the drums, have to remove those & then get the lines of as well?

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[RonD]

Yes, if you can't get rear bleeders to break loose then you will need to take off brake line and wheel, to replace wheel cylinders, I called them slaves

You can bleed brakes using the Brake line, loosen it, but it can leave air at the top of the slave or caliper.
Bleeder is placed at the top where any air would collect

You can buy Flair nut wrenches, like these: https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/5-pc-metric-flare-nut-wrench-set/A-p8259566e

They are made for brake line nuts and other hose fitting, they grip better, more like a box end wrench than open end which tends to strip nuts

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Heat up the bleeder screw with a small torch, then use a can of Air Duster turned upsidedown on the bleeder screw. Then spray with P.B. Blaster. Try turning it after that. Just use whatever wrench/socket fits it the best. I've got an old set of metric sockets than are graduated every half mm. 4.5-5-5.5-6-6.5 etc. They come in really handy for this kind of thing.

If all that fails, vice grips, and then trying an easy-out may be your next best alternative.



GB

 

[Ranger850]

Yes This is what I was calling a "bleeder" wrench. it is made for to fit around the bleeder and go around the actual line on all sides but one, less likely to slip.

 

[Ranger850]

Yes, if you can't get rear bleeders to break loose then you will need to take off brake line and wheel, to replace wheel cylinders, I called them slaves

You can bleed brakes using the Brake line, loosen it, but it can leave air at the top of the slave or caliper.
Bleeder is placed at the top where any air would collect

You can buy Flair nut wrenches, like these: https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/5-pc-metric-flare-nut-wrench-set/A-p8259566e

They are made for brake line nuts and other hose fitting, they grip better, more like a box end wrench than open end which tends to strip nuts

Sorry forgot to QUOTE Rob D for my previous post. lol

 

[adsm08]

Yes This is what I was calling a "bleeder" wrench. it is made for to fit around the bleeder and go around the actual line on all sides but one, less likely to slip.

No, that's a line wrench. It has a slot to pass over the line, but is otherwise a 6 point box end.

A bleeder screw has no line going into it and so a bleeder wrench is fully closed.

It does have some hard angles on it to get in around corners.

 

[Joeshark]

WOW thanks guys seriously for the awesome responses!
Really appreciative.

I took off a drum so I could measure it, apparently you can get parts for 9" & 10" drum.
Looks like I've got 9" & a ton of rust. I'm just going to go ahead & replace the drums, shoes, cylinders & hardware. It's needed bad, the cylinders look like something out of a sunken ship lol.

I'll update with photos & progress, thanks again.


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