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Best Rivet Removal technique


modelageek

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
2,241
City
Boston, MA
Vehicle Year
2004
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
This afternoon my hanger and shackle on my leaf spring rusted thru. I was the hanger is attached with 2 bolts and 2 rivets. The bolts came right off but the rivets I tried sawsall and inexpensive. Air hammer neither was working well I am going to get a grinding wheel for mt grinder. Any suggestions would be great. Thanx
 
I use a hand grinder to take the heads of the rivets off then drive them through with a punch and a BFH.
 
Thanx for responding I have a dewault grinder what wheel should I get what size how many will I go thru a few I am going to the depot.
 
just get a thick grinding wheel, the small cuters will only break or wear to fast.

one thick grinder will do the job, but its good to have extras
 
just get a thick grinding wheel, the small cuters will only break or wear to fast.

one thick grinder will do the job, but its good to have extras

+1
1/4" thick grinding wheel will do the trick. While you're at it, get two. You'll need them later for other things anyway.
 
Cut an X into the head of the rivet then use the air chisel to remove the 4 pieces.

Fastest and cleanest way to do it. Plazma and torch are quick but messy.
 
No offense bud but drilling out a rivet sucks!
The X method or grinding them flat and driving them thru are the best in my book.
 
i'd say drill as long as you use a good bit
 
I also recommend using the grinder and cutting wheel. You can make quick work of even these larger rivet heads. I used it to replace the front coil spring buckets and also to removed my rear radius arm-to-frame brackets. As long as you've got the room, the work great.
 
thanks for the responses I don't have a plasma cutter and i am not sure how a torch would work. I will get a grinding wheel and try that x method i have a cheesy airhammer with a point chisel. i will see if that works......thanks again
 
A GOOD air hammer will take them off like butter. A cheesy air hammer will just make a lot of noise. I tried my air hammer when I did mine and all I did is get frustrated. I used my friends BIG air hammer and it took about 30 seconds a rivet. If you can't borrow a good hammer go with the "X" method with the grinder and drive it out with a punch and BFH. Good luck and wear goggles.
 
Took me about an hour to hack the 2 rivets off. The bottom one i grinded right off and I used a cheesy airhammer punch and it popped off. the top rivet was harder to get to because the old hanger and shackle where all bent around it . i used a sawsall and airhammer to get that one off. No parts stores had the parts in stock so i ordered them from advanced and should have them tomorrow. I would suggest anyone with a truck like mine check your hanger and shackles at the rear of your rear leafssprings. my truck is
 
SORRY GOOFED HERE IS THE REST is not rusted bad at all. and the one just rusted tru and the other shackle is about to rust trhu. I think i will keep the hanger on that side and just repalce the shackle. I looked up the parts for a 1992 2wd and a 2001 2wd and the parts where the same dorman 722-010 and dorman 722-001. you can order them online for less than stores. I paid $26 for the hanger and $28 for the shackle. I will post after i get them installed. but again I would suggest you go check yours. much easier and cheaper to do it as maintenance then as a rush repair
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