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Best Axle Swap

SAS axle choice and suspension set-up!

  • Dana 30

    Votes: 2 11.1%
  • Dana 44

    Votes: 13 72.2%
  • Dana 60

    Votes: 3 16.7%
  • Rockwell

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Coils

    Votes: 8 44.4%
  • Leafs

    Votes: 3 16.7%
  • 4-Link

    Votes: 1 5.6%

  • Total voters
    18

Just wanted to get the ball rolling on seeing what people think and what people suggest just to see what is what.

I like to get a view of what people are going for, just what they would build up there rig to do.

I'm currently building my truck up with a Dana 30 and a 8.8. Its my DD and weekend trail blazer. But if I were to build a strict off roader I would deff got with a Dana 60 and a 14 bolt with 37's. Be so solid and go all day with a 5.0 behind it.

Keep the posts coming....!:icon_thumby:
 
You could easily DD a 5.0 powered linked 60/14b rig IF you take the time to do it right.
I know a jeep TJ on that combo I would dd IF it didn't have drive flanges up front and full spools.
 
Just wanted to get the ball rolling on seeing what people think and what people suggest just to see what is what.

I like to get a view of what people are going for, just what they would build up there rig to do.

I'm currently building my truck up with a Dana 30 and a 8.8. Its my DD and weekend trail blazer. But if I were to build a strict off roader I would deff got with a Dana 60 and a 14 bolt with 37's. Be so solid and go all day with a 5.0 behind it.


Keep the posts coming....!:icon_thumby:




i think your doing exactly the right thing...perfect actually....

on a budget, only way to make it better is with lockouts. i would actually rob the inner "c,s" and outer knuckles from a 10 bolt and run lockouts on the front and upgrade the 8.8 with 5x5.5 shafts.




You could easily DD a 5.0 powered linked 60/14b rig IF you take the time to do it right.
I know a jeep TJ on that combo I would dd IF it didn't have drive flanges up front and full spools.



for driving on a budget....i would not waste the money on links...a decent leaf setup is cost effective. ridiculously cost effective to get 1 ton strength and security.

but it gets costly when you want a super plush ride.

if you are wheeling where you need links, its gonna be big money to keep it a driver comparatively.



my ranger is easy to drive when it was spooled in tight slow traffic and turning....compared to the b2, it really sux spooled. especially when turning sharp on pavement.



with that, my ranger is my main vehicle. its on tons and is leaf.

it having tons was the only logical upgrade from a d35 for me. i was actually having problems and at the limits of the 31 spline 8.8 for my purposes and that is what drove the upgrade...if good not so rusted and shitty d35 parts were still heavily available where i live for cheap i would have likely swapped in a cc 14b with 5x5.5 pattern and 44 shit again up front on my 35.

but good easy to get d35 parts were waning....so 60's it was.


so there is not best build in my eyes for most people and the realities of money. if your daily driving a ranger, budget is probably something you need to abide by.

i did what was necessary and most cost effective for my situation, and generally help others find the logic in that as well.
 
Yeah. I agree. Leafs are awesomely effective if you get the packs right.
Cheap. Easy. Flexy to.

We are dreaming in this thread tho... So links it is lol
 
Yeah. I agree. Leafs are awesomely effective if you get the packs right.
Cheap. Easy. Flexy to.

We are dreaming in this thread tho... So links it is lol

I also agree with this
 

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