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Hi there,
I have a problem I am trying to figure what if anything I did wrong on my front disc brake job about a month ago on my 97 Ford Ranger 2.3 liter step side. I replaced the pads, put in a new drivers side disc, bearings inner and outer and inner bearing seal. I don't think there is an outer bearing seal did not put one on anyway. Truck ran just fine for over a month, this morning though…
The problem is, this morning, there was a loud grinding, knocking sound coming out of the front end, and when I took the front drivers side wheel off, the top caliper bolt was gone, came completely off, and the caliper was flopping around, swung completely off the mounting bracket, only the lower bolt was holding the caliper on. Also, the nut that goes on the spindle and on top of the outer bearing and holds the wheel on, managed to get loose, even though the cotter pin and bearing washer were in place, the bearing nut loosened up and there was a big amount of clearance or gap between the outer bearing – and the large washer that goes on top of the outer bearing. I could not figure out how that could happen if the cotter pin and that nut and the cage that goes over the bearing nut were securely on. Anyway, I got a new caliper bolt on there, tightened up the bearing nut, got the truck home and tore it down again, am inspecting the disc, bearings, etc.
Questions are - could the loose caliper cause the bearing nut to go loose?
Second question, I don’t see how that could happen. My inner and outer bearings kit came with these steel cups or rings (called a race?) which are tapered on the ID, the bearings seat right into them, I figured on some discs they are needed, but my previous break job did not seem to have these seperate seats, or cups, inserted or press fitted into the disc id. Do these need to be press fit or tapped into the disc and the bearings ride on them?
If yes, on all discs, or do some discs not need them? because the discs ID's are tapered too, and the bearings ride right on the tapered surface of the ID of the discs, so I thought they were not needed.
If this was the problem, that would explain maybe how there was a big amount of space between the bearing nut and the outer bearing itself because the cups were not taking up the clearance.
If this is the case and the cups do need to be press fit into the discs, could that have caused the caliper bolt to vibrate off?
Thanks for any insights on this one.
As a footnote to this one, both the folks at NAPA and Murrays auto parts tell me that the discs they sell for the ranger already have the races press fit into the disc. They also say that the caliper coming loose might cause the gap and a loose disc, the nut getting loose and maybe an 1/8 inch gap between the bearing and the bearing spacer - nut, but that it was un likely. So it's a really mystery to me, I don't want to put this back together until I find the problem, but the only thing I could think of is that maybe they sold me the wrong sized bearings? Any ideas here? Anyone ever have this happen to them?
Another thing, is there a way if I can find out if I have anti lock brakes? I don't think I do, but when I go to the parts store they all say that this vehicle has anti lock brakes, but how can I tell if I have anti lock brakes? Maybe they sold me bearings for a ranger that has anti locks, but I don't have anti lock brakes and thus is why I got the wrong bearings?
I’ve done my own brake jobs all my life and never had anything like this happen before…
I have a problem I am trying to figure what if anything I did wrong on my front disc brake job about a month ago on my 97 Ford Ranger 2.3 liter step side. I replaced the pads, put in a new drivers side disc, bearings inner and outer and inner bearing seal. I don't think there is an outer bearing seal did not put one on anyway. Truck ran just fine for over a month, this morning though…
The problem is, this morning, there was a loud grinding, knocking sound coming out of the front end, and when I took the front drivers side wheel off, the top caliper bolt was gone, came completely off, and the caliper was flopping around, swung completely off the mounting bracket, only the lower bolt was holding the caliper on. Also, the nut that goes on the spindle and on top of the outer bearing and holds the wheel on, managed to get loose, even though the cotter pin and bearing washer were in place, the bearing nut loosened up and there was a big amount of clearance or gap between the outer bearing – and the large washer that goes on top of the outer bearing. I could not figure out how that could happen if the cotter pin and that nut and the cage that goes over the bearing nut were securely on. Anyway, I got a new caliper bolt on there, tightened up the bearing nut, got the truck home and tore it down again, am inspecting the disc, bearings, etc.
Questions are - could the loose caliper cause the bearing nut to go loose?
Second question, I don’t see how that could happen. My inner and outer bearings kit came with these steel cups or rings (called a race?) which are tapered on the ID, the bearings seat right into them, I figured on some discs they are needed, but my previous break job did not seem to have these seperate seats, or cups, inserted or press fitted into the disc id. Do these need to be press fit or tapped into the disc and the bearings ride on them?
If yes, on all discs, or do some discs not need them? because the discs ID's are tapered too, and the bearings ride right on the tapered surface of the ID of the discs, so I thought they were not needed.
If this was the problem, that would explain maybe how there was a big amount of space between the bearing nut and the outer bearing itself because the cups were not taking up the clearance.
If this is the case and the cups do need to be press fit into the discs, could that have caused the caliper bolt to vibrate off?
Thanks for any insights on this one.
As a footnote to this one, both the folks at NAPA and Murrays auto parts tell me that the discs they sell for the ranger already have the races press fit into the disc. They also say that the caliper coming loose might cause the gap and a loose disc, the nut getting loose and maybe an 1/8 inch gap between the bearing and the bearing spacer - nut, but that it was un likely. So it's a really mystery to me, I don't want to put this back together until I find the problem, but the only thing I could think of is that maybe they sold me the wrong sized bearings? Any ideas here? Anyone ever have this happen to them?
Another thing, is there a way if I can find out if I have anti lock brakes? I don't think I do, but when I go to the parts store they all say that this vehicle has anti lock brakes, but how can I tell if I have anti lock brakes? Maybe they sold me bearings for a ranger that has anti locks, but I don't have anti lock brakes and thus is why I got the wrong bearings?
I’ve done my own brake jobs all my life and never had anything like this happen before…
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