Bead lock thoughts and recommendations?

[sgtsandman]

One of the uses it to just prevent the wheel from spinning faster than the tire. A single side bead lock is probably more than adequate for that. Not that Rangers in general can generate enough torque for that to be an issue. I’m not even sure a 2019+ has much to worry about in that department.

 

[Dirtman]

One of the uses it to just prevent the wheel from spinning faster than the tire. A single side bead lock is probably more than adequate for that. Not that Rangers in general can generate enough torque for that to be an issue. I’m not even sure a 2019+ has much to worry about in that department.

Now this makes some sense.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

One of the uses it to just prevent the wheel from spinning faster than the tire. A single side bead lock is probably more than adequate for that. Not that Rangers in general can generate enough torque for that to be an issue. I’m not even sure a 2019+ has much to worry about in that department.

It is easier with lower tire pressure too. Used to be pretty common for tractors (that run 15psi max) to spin the rims in the tire and snip the valve stems off the inner tubes.

I think tires see more stress at the bottom being pulled towards the vehicle than getting pulled away from the vehicle too.

 

[4x4junkie]

I know I'm a bit late to the party here,

Single-beadlock wheels exist largely for cost considerations (obviously it's much cheaper to have one beadlock than two), and to a smaller extent, ease of use (only one beadlock to torque down). Single beadlock wheels are practical in a lot of cases simply because the inner sidewall of a tire is generally not subject to the same forces as the outer sidewall.
Say you're crawling through large rocks while the truck is significantly leaning driverside-down... Because of weight transfer (from it leaning), the outer sidewalls of the driverside tires will see much greater load than the inner sidewalls of the passengerside tires.
The same also happens when cornering in circle-track racing, weight transfer from the forces of cornering puts much more load on the outside tires of the turn than on the inside tires.

I have contemplated beadlock wheels a few times in the past myself... I always ended up deciding against them simply because I haven't really had much issue with slipping beads.

I usually run somewhere between 10-20 PSI, depending on the terrain...
On lengthy roads that are severely washboarded (Saline Valley road not far from Death Valley being a good example), I run 10 PSI for the extra cushioning it provides over the washboard (I'll also run 8-10 PSI in soft sand). For large rocks (Rubicon trail for example), around 12 PSI. For less-difficult runs, I'll use 15-20 PSI.

 

[Curious Hound]

I know I'm a bit late to the party here,

Single-beadlock wheels exist largely for cost considerations (obviously it's much cheaper to have one beadlock than two), and to a smaller extent, ease of use (only one beadlock to torque down). Single beadlock wheels are practical in a lot of cases simply because the inner sidewall of a tire is generally not subject to the same forces as the outer sidewall.
Say you're crawling through large rocks while the truck is significantly leaning driverside-down... Because of weight transfer (from it leaning), the outer sidewalls of the driverside tires will see much greater load than the inner sidewalls of the passengerside tires.
The same also happens when cornering in circle-track racing, weight transfer from the forces of cornering puts much more load on the outside tires of the turn than on the inside tires.

I have contemplated beadlock wheels a few times in the past myself... I always ended up deciding against them simply because I haven't really had much issue with slipping beads.

I usually run somewhere between 10-20 PSI, depending on the terrain...
On lengthy roads that are severely washboarded (Saline Valley road not far from Death Valley being a good example), I run 10 PSI for the extra cushioning it provides over the washboard (I'll also run 8-10 PSI in soft sand). For large rocks (Rubicon trail for example), around 12 PSI. For less-difficult runs, I'll use 15-20 PSI.

This post represents my current thoughts exactly. I also need to decide exactly how I want to use the truck. My adventures this weekend really woke up the camper/traveler in me and I am set up pretty well right now for overlanding in a cheap and simple way. But I also enjoy going to a park and getting fearless on the rocks and hill climbs. Ideally, I should have a rig built and dedicated to each purpose. $$$$ I don't have.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Kinda sorta makes sense but in circle track racing while the right side tire is being pushed inward the left side tire is being pushed outward so you would still technically still need double beadlocks, especially once the track starts getting grooved and force is coming from all angles. BUT most professionally sanctioned dirt track racing doesn’t allow bead locks anyway and have rules per track about minimum tire pressure to prevent tires from coming off. I work on the "pit crew" (3 drunk guys in a trailer) of a sportsman 602 class dirt car, our home track usually mandates about 25-30 psi minimum depending on the current track condition and no beadlocks are not permitted in any class.

 

[truckfan]

To me, the only con is the price. If you have a budget, go and get them. With bead locks, you can air down to single-digit psi. I saw the Black Rhino beadlock wheels on 4wheelonline, and they look nice. I'm actually thinking of getting a set.