900 dollars may seem high(and it is)but that is the going rate for your typical commercial auto repair shop these days. In that case you are paying for the warranty, and the parts prices are jacked up about 50% also. Another reason that it is so much more expensive for your truck is that the labor is higher and the uppers are integral to the control arm. So you'll be getting two press fit lowers and two upper control arms(some newer rangers have press fit uppers, however). If it was an older I-beam setup, it would be alot cheaper on parts because you just buy 4 press fit ball joints, no complete control arms. You need to get Moog ball joints or TRW if Moogs arent available or you will be replacing them again. Make sure the lowers have 90 degree grease zerks and install them facing forward and slightly inboard otherwise the outer axle cup will be in the way of greasing them. I hope the technician showed the worn ball joints to you and didnt just assume the uppers were bad because the lowers were. Really nothing else in the front end prone to failure on those, you'll probably check the brakes while its apart. The front bearings are not serviceable and are sealed hub assy's, you would know if they were bad(common issue on these, loud roaring that sounds like a bad tire). If you want to know how I do them I can tell you the exact tooling you'll need and how to do it, I get uppers and lowers done in about 1.5 hours at the shop I work in. These instructions are if you are doing it on the ground...I'm not exact on every detail and its kinda hard to articulate with no pictures but here's the basic run-down...
-Jack one side up as far a possible, support frame with jackstand, remove wheel(19mm).
-Install 2 or 3 lugnuts tapered side out on the wheelstuds and tighten against the brake rotor hat. This will keep the rotor from breaking loose from the hub, allowing rust to fall between the hub and rotor causing a brake pulsation.
-Loosen center nut (30 mm). Insert a round punch(not tapered, must fit tight) in the brake rotor vents and rotate the brake rotor. This will wedge the large end of the punch against the caliper bracket and keep the axle/rotor from spinning so you can loosen the center nut. Driver's side will be counter-clockwise against the BOTTOM of the caliper bracket, passenger's side counter-clockwise against the TOP of the caliper bracket. Or just get someone to hold the brakes so you can break them loose.
-Remove entire caliper assembly by removing two 18mm bolts on the back of steering knuckle. Tie the caliper up so its out of the way and the hose has no weight on it. I use the upper control arm mount brackets right at the frame.
-unclip the entire wheel speed sensor harness from vehicle frame and disconnect it at the vehicle end. (8mm to unbolt it from the steering knuckle and flat blade screwdriver to disengage the clips on frame)
-Support the lower control arm with whatever is solid and will fit under out near the lower ball joint end. Hopefully its jacked up high enough to get another jackstand under it. By the way, the suspension is at full travel on these when the front tire is off the ground-dont worry about the torsion bar "springing down" and the shock absorber will stop any further travel. This is so you have something solid to hammer against when blasting the lowers out and so youre not beating up the shock pistons. Keep the support device far enough away from the lower ball joint so it dosent get in the way of your work.
-Remove the upper ball joint pinch bolt (15&18mm)
-Wedge a large prybar under the upper control arm and on top the vehicle frame and pry up while hammering the tubular top area of the knuckle that the upper ball joint stud is connected to. You may need a second person to pry or hammer, they can really be stuck good. There is a split in the same area on the back of the knuckle you can spray penetrant into. Let the upper control arm hang there for now after you seperate it from the knuckle.
-Remove the lower ball joint castle nut (21mm).
-Since you are replacing it, hammer on the lower ball joint stud where it comes through the knuckle on the bottom or use a "pickle fork" to seperate it. Hopefully you have enough room to do this.
-Coax the knuckle off the lower ball joint and the axle at the same time. Spin the center nut back on the axle end flush with the tip so you have something to hammer on without galling the axle threads. The lower ball joint stud will disengage first, then the axle.
-Set the knuckle forward and out of the way onto something to support it. Otherwise, the weight of the knuckle, hub assy, and rotor will be sitting on the inner tie rod socket.
-Tie the axle out of the way, remove the lower ball joint snap ring, and blast the lower ball joint downward and out of the lower control arm. Dont go crazy and mushroom the edges of the ball joint. If you do, you will have to file the edge off before it will come out.
-LIGHTLY sand the corrosion out of the hole in the lower control arm.
-Lubricate the new ball joint with anti-sieze and reinstall it with a ball joint press. You can get it started with a hammer so it wont fall out when you get the press into position. Its hard to tell you how to use the press...I do it this way(from the bottom up)- open hole end of the press, lower ball joint stud inside that, control arm, small cup, closed reciever, forcing screw. The hex end of the forcing screw will be pointing straight up. The open hole end of the press will be pressing against the top body of the ball joint where the stud ends, and the cup and reciever will be on top of the control arm with the snap ring end of the ball joint hidden under that. The body of the clamp and the ball joint will be the only things moving upwards. Try to remove the ball joint boot so the press doesnt cut it. If it does, it will seal against the inside edge of the knuckle anyway.
-Reinstall the snap ring and reverse the process. Make sure you install the grease zerk as described in the initial part of this post. The only thing that is really torque sensitive is the center nut torque. I put them at 180-200 lb. ft. If you dont, the hub assy (bearing) will fail prematurely.
-At this point you will have a fully assembled front end minus the upper control arm hanging there.
-Remove and replace the upper control arm. The cam bolts/pivot bolts and nuts are all 21mm. Make note of how the cams are installed. The bolts are installed from the center out. The bolt heads should both be facing the shock tower. The squared-off cams go on the outsides of the cam bolts facing the fender wells. The inner cams are squared off also but not as much. Make sure to install the upper ball joint stud into the knuckle before tightening the cam bolt nuts so you dont have to pry the upper control arm down as hard to connect it to the knuckle, just makes it easier.
-Repeat for the other side. I'm not sure about this year, but the passenger side upper ball joint may look completely diffrent than the driver's side. Ford built a caster adjustment into the p/s upper on some of these. If so, replacing it will be self-exlainatory and much easier than the Driver's side upper. Make note of where the adjuster bolt was so its close when you put it back together. If it is not this style, the passenger side upper will look like the driver's side and replacing it will still be easier because the fuel lines are not in the way.
-I failed to mention one thing, check the sway bar links because they are prone to breakage on these too.
-Don't forget to reconnect the abs harnesses to the vehicle!
-The "Ball joint press" is also called a "3-in-1 service set" if you go and rent one.
-All of this is just me relaying to you how I do this job. If you decide to tackle it, please be careful!! Josh
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