Ball joints or wheel bearings?

[fishon1213]

Hello everyone. So I have a 94 4x4 Ranger that I am having trouble with. I have only had the truck a couple of months and put about 500 miles on it so I don't know the history.

The truck pulls to the right, drives straight with wheel at about 10'oclock. Let go of the wheel and it changes lanes. Alignment may be the issue, but the wheels do have some play in them. I jacked the front end up today and grabbing the tire at any point it would move, nearly an inch. The ball joints and steering did not seem to have any play in them.

I did some very mild wheeling today to make sure the 4x4 was working. While crawling in low and steering there was some noise coming from the front, almost like a popping. No humming from the wheel bearings but I am thinking maybe they are just loose. Could that also cause the truck to pull to the right? What size is the axle nut and what are the torque specs?

 

[cvar]

Sounds like bad wheel bearings. Do you have auto hubs or manual hubs?
See here: http://imgur.com/a/d8skq

For manual hub torque, see here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.htm

Alignment can be off due to worn radius arm bushings: http://imgur.com/a/BkzJc

 

[wizkid00104]

The axle nut is actually a spindle nut. Its a special 4 "prong" socket available at auto parts stores.

There are actually 2 nuts. The inner one puts the preload on the bearing, then a washer with holes in it goes on, the a second nut. I believe you preload the inner nut to 18-25 ft-lbs. The inner nut has a stud on it that fits into the little wholes on the washer to keep it from loosening. Then you wind down the outer nut a lot tighter. Not sure on the spec.

 

[4x4junkie]

The axle nut is actually a spindle nut. Its a special 4 "prong" socket available at auto parts stores.

There are actually 2 nuts. The inner one puts the preload on the bearing, then a washer with holes in it goes on, the a second nut. I believe you preload the inner nut to 18-25 ft-lbs. The inner nut has a stud on it that fits into the little wholes on the washer to keep it from loosening. Then you wind down the outer nut a lot tighter. Not sure on the spec.

That's if he's got manual hubs... There's been no mention which ones he has yet (the auto hub setup has just a single nut).

If there's no humming or grinding noises, the possibility is there that the bearings just need to be tightened properly. Loose bearings would also allow the axle shafts to wiggle inside the hubs, which could be a source of noise while in 4WD.

 

[fishon1213]

Sorry fellers, ive got manual warn hubs.

So I need a special socket huh?
Could wheel bearings really make the truck pull that much?

 

[fishon1213]

Ok, so I have a buddy that has that special socket that I should be getting tomorrow. I will tighten the wheel bearings and maybe repack them?

As far as the radius arm bushings, I looked at them a little closer and they are definitely suspect. The passenger side pops and moves more than the other, which would explain why the truck pulls to the right. I am pretty comfortable replacing them. However buying them, I see that some of them say adjustable +or- 2 degrees, what is that about?

Also I have a set of f150 coils I plan to install, should extended radius arms be something I should consider, or will I need them?

 

[4x4junkie]

That + or - 2 degree stuff I think is for caster correction. If you plan to stick different coils in there for a bit of lift, they may come in handy, however they are not needed with extended radius arms (though you should have at least a 3" suspension lift on it in order to take full advantage of what ext radius arms have to offer).

When you retighten the bearings, also tighten the outer locknuts to 225-250 ft-lbs. They are known to come loose occasionally from the book-spec of 150 (which is probably what you experienced).

 

[fishon1213]

Will the extended radius arms be required because of the f150 coils? Or are those needed just for bigger lifts and more articulation?

 

[4x4junkie]

Extended arms give you more articulation. They are not required for leveling coils (F-150 coils, etc.).

 

[fishon1213]

Well thanks for all the help, and to finish up this thread.....

I checked the wheel bearings and found the outer locknut was finger tight, so I repacked the bearings and tightened the locknuts to spec.

I replaced the radius arm bushings which were worn very badly, in fact I had to weld a small crack in the crossmember.

After doing this the truck drives smooth and straight and the alignment is back to where it should be. Time for f150 coils, camber bushings, and realignment, yay

Thanks