B4000 lift question?

[Stevepotato]

Can I get away with coil springs and lift blocks to get 2 inch lift in a 2001 Mazda b4000 4x4. Or are there things that will get drastically changed? new to b series, was a jeep guy.

 

[4x4junkie]

A 2001 4x4 doesn't have coil springs.

What you have up front are torsion bars. They can be adjusted approx 1.5" higher with no ill effects, but more than that can accelerate ball joint and CV axle wear (not to mention negatively impact the ride quality).

See this article in our Tech Library:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TorsionBar.shtml

For the rear, you can use blocks to raise it, however since there is already a factory block back there, it is strongly recommended replacing it with a taller block rather than stacking blocks. Better still would be another method of lifting such as extended shackles or even an add-a-leaf, which won't exacerbate the wheelhop issue Rangers (B-Series) already are prone to having with the stock block.


Welcome to TRS

.

 

[Stevepotato]

Thanks for the repy. Picking the truck up next week.i read up on torsion keys. It's Either lift keys or aftermarket keys to make it easier on parts when turned up for lift. Am I on the right track with that info? I'm looking for 2" and add Lead in rear for lift and my camper.

 

[adsm08]

Lift keys don't make anything easier on anything when cranking up torsion bars. Torsion bars are adjusted by a bolt that runs through the mount. When you put keys in for "lift" the bar still gets tweaked the same, the bolt just gets put back in the spot it would be with factory keys at factory height.

 

[Stevepotato]

So torquing the stock keys for 1.5" should be fine it sounds like

 

[Caleb_19]

A 2001 4x4 doesn't have coil springs.

What you have up front are torsion bars. They can be adjusted approx 1.5" higher with no ill effects, but more than that can accelerate ball joint and CV axle wear (not to mention negatively impact the ride quality).

See this article in our Tech Library:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TorsionBar.shtml

For the rear, you can use blocks to raise it, however since there is already a factory block back there, it is strongly recommended replacing it with a taller block rather than stacking blocks. Better still would be another method of lifting such as extended shackles or even an add-a-leaf, which won't exacerbate the wheelhop issue Rangers (B-Series) already are prone to having with the stock block.


Welcome to TRS [emoji481]

.

Not to thread jack here, but if I were to remove the factory block, and get lift shackles or AAL to bring me back to stock hieght, that would keep the back from hoping? Is it that block that causes the hoping?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[4x4junkie]

Not to thread jack here, but if I were to remove the factory block, and get lift shackles or AAL to bring me back to stock hieght, that would keep the back from hoping? Is it that block that causes the hoping?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

No guarantees removing the stock block alone will fully eliminate any hopping (the spring-over-axle configuration of the suspension is also a contributor), however it should greatly reduce it, yes.

Fully eliminating wheelhop usually means adding a traction bar (or bars) to the rear axle/suspension.