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B3000 SHO swap


Hey Pat, I'm just curious on the progress of this build and looking at dropping a stock 3.0 SHO into my truck. If you have any updates, that'd be great, and if you had any advice for mating the engine to the transmission and chassis, that would also be welcome.
 
Lordy, what happened to this super-ambitious TRS member? Has he passed away from over-exertion? ;) If so, an elaborate memorial service is in order. HOPEfully he's just busy making bank on paid-work.

OTOH, I think he's only about 70 miles up the road from me... should I buy up his project as-is, and charge people just to stop by and touch the killer welds? :LOL::p That's my only option, as I don't have NEARLY the skills needed to finish it... and my part of FL is way too densely populated to get in much drifting action, while staying off the po-po radar. :sneaky:
 
LOL

So the project isn't dead - work just got in the way. I was sent overseas for 2 years mid 2021. Before I left, I left the engine with a machine shop to get rebuilt. I had no idea I was going to be gone that long. When I got back, I got in touch with the machine shop only to find the shop closed down. Thankfully they still had my engine, but had not proceeded any farther than tearing down and media blasting the heads. They did no machine or reassembly work. Earlier this year I took the engine to a new machine shop that does racing engines. Unfortunately they have quite the back-log and I have multiple engines that need built and the sho is the least important to get done. I'm currently waiting in-line for it's time in the machines and I expect to have it back by the end of the year. I have much more planned for this truck, like completely cutting the front crossmember and building a mustang-2 style front suspension for it, but I want to get the motor back to verify clearances before I cut even more out.

But yeah, 70-ish miles sounds right.
 
Pat,
I’m currently building a 99 ext cab 4x4 ranger and swapping in a 3.0 sho for the 3.0 Vulcan that’s currently in there. My truck is being used exclusively for racing (picture tuff truck style racing, just less brutal). Since I have no concerns for emissions, hvac, longevity, etc I suspect I’ll have an easier go than the typical guy who wants to swap this engine into a daily driver type of vehicle.

couple questions for you. I noticed you said it’s easier to modify steering linkage than make exhaust. How mush in the way is the stock linkage if using the stock SHO manifolds?

The height you have the engine at, was that intentionally lowered or ia that about where you suspect it would land using some simple custom mounts? I don’t plan on flipping the intake because the entire dash is removed and I’ll be making a custom dash out of aluminum so cutting a hole in the firewall for the throttle body and an air filter to poke through is not an issue in my setup, but I am curious if it’ll go through the firewall or more through the cowl at “standard” height.
 
Tuff trucks is a very cool competition, even if it is a more Miller version of it.

There is no way to make the stock manifold and steering linkage work. The linkage must be moved away from the manifold or a custom header made. I don't have the stock manifolds anymore but on page 3 you can see the headers I made and how much clearance there is ( very very little).

Since you're building a 4x4 you will have a lot more options. Assuming you're using a live axle front end and not an IFS, you should be able to lower the steering box to get more clearance to the steering shaft.

Regarding the height I have the motor installed at, I came to this height by leveling the frame, mounting the engine to the factory tranny, and bolting the tranny to the trans cross member. Then I either leveled the motor front to back, or pointed it 1 degree down in the front (or back,I don't remember - maybe I posted it somewhere). That's where I locked the motor in at.

Keeping the intake pointed in the stock location makes the most sense. If I could do it again I probably would have done that. Then you can build an air box in the cab of the truck. Lots of things I would do differently given the opportunity....

This is from earlier in the thread. This is without the intake risers and should give you a good idea where it will poke through in relation to the heater core inlet
 

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Thanks for the quick reply!
I have a decently well equipped shop but don’t do this as a profession. But I have a milling machine, 14x40 lathe, cnc plasma table, welders, etc, so most fabrication isn’t too far out of reach, but I’m leaning toward the steering modification being significantly easier than a custom from scratch header.

like you im also using megasquirt, though the one I have is an ms2 from back in the day that saw use on an old turbo mustang I ran about 12-15 years ago. I’m actually contemplating keeping the auto in it. I’m not worried about transmission controller as I’ve looked over schematics and it seems the gear solenoids could be easily electronically controlled manually if that makes sense (think paddle shifter style manual valve body) and a PWM controller for line pressure adjustment. If im way off on this being doable with the auto, a mazda 5 speed for the 4x4 and Vulcan should be easily obtainable, and I noted that you listed the appropriate parts to make it work with the SHO engine. Would you foresee any added clearance issues with the pan etc since my application is 4wd?
 
To be completely honest, I have no idea. I am entirely unfamiliar with the 4x4 platform. I didn't even know if it's a-arm ifs, twin-beam, or liveaxle. I would think so long as it's not a-arm ifs you will have more clearance - especially so if you are lifting the truck.
 
Unfortunately for me, it’s a 1999 and that’s the year they went to A arm suspension. I guess I’ll see how it goes as we get further along. Thanks again for the responses. I’ll keep my thread high jacking to a minimum haha
 
If I keep my 3.0 block in the truck (95 3.0 4wd electric switch), could I swap the heads and intake for the SHO heads and intake?
 
I thought the SHO was a completely different engine?
 
it is completely different. only the bell housing pattern is the same.
the heads are not interchangeable.
 
I'd like to see one of these in a 4x4 setup. Has anyone ever done that?
 
To be completely honest, I have no idea. I am entirely unfamiliar with the 4x4 platform. I didn't even know if it's a-arm ifs, twin-beam, or liveaxle. I would think so long as it's not a-arm ifs you will have more clearance - especially so if you are lifting the truck.
Have you finished your swap? I loved reading up on the process. It's kind of kindling a swap like this in mine one day.
 
I'd like to see one of these in a 4x4 setup. Has anyone ever done that?
Click on my name and check out my threads. I have the SHO mounted in my 1999 Ranger 4x4. There’s YouTube videos of the build in the thread as well
 

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