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B2 suspension question


B2crawler

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May 15, 2012
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I'm new to the forum and I'm thinkin about building a bronco 2 for a rock crawler and have a question on suspension. How much lift can I get out of it without binding anything and having to much of an angle on the drive shafts. Is the front suspension coil springs and shocks or no? If it is can I put jeep Jk coils on it with longer shocks or is that to much lift or not very much? What is the cheapest way to lift it to get more flex? Could I lift it by gettin longer shocks only and get more flex or would I have to get new leaf springs and radius arms? Any info will be appreciated. If I'm missing anything please add it in. Thanks.
 
I'm new to the forum and I'm thinkin about building a bronco 2 for a rock crawler and have a question on suspension. How much lift can I get out of it without binding anything and having to much of an angle on the drive shafts. Is the front suspension coil springs and shocks or no? If it is can I put jeep Jk coils on it with longer shocks or is that to much lift or not very much? What is the cheapest way to lift it to get more flex? Could I lift it by gettin longer shocks only and get more flex or would I have to get new leaf springs and radius arms? Any info will be appreciated. If I'm missing anything please add it in. Thanks.

bigger shackles the guys on this site know exactly what they are i believe they are beltech 4600 shackles, that takes care of your rear. Find a F-250 in your junk yard pull the shocks and coils from it throw em in your b2 with very little modification ( you just have to bend the retaining piece of the coil mount) thats the cheapest lift i know about definitely look at the tech library theres step by step instructions etc. on how to do what i just explained to you on there. Also any further questions concerning things that are not Bronco II specific can go in the "general discussions" forum.
 
You can do a 1-2" body lift and trim the fenders to fit 33's.

A 4" suspension lift from Rough Country is only 440 bucks.
 
What kind of trails are you looking to do with it? If you want to build a legitimate rock crawler for intense trails then stock axles have to go. If you want a mild trail runner then you could swap in a d35 and 8.8. Either way the d28 and 7.5 have to go
 
bigger shackles the guys on this site know exactly what they are i believe they are beltech 4600 shackles, that takes care of your rear. Find a F-250 in your junk yard pull the shocks and coils from it throw em in your b2 with very little modification ( you just have to bend the retaining piece of the coil mount) thats the cheapest lift i know about definitely look at the tech library theres step by step instructions etc. on how to do what i just explained to you on there. Also any further questions concerning things that are not Bronco II specific can go in the "general discussions" forum.

the f250 coils will ride like crap and have less flex then he has now and to be specific you need the shock mounts off a 4wd f250 the 2wd truck have the shock mounts built into the coil bucket iirc
 
It will be wheeled at super lift orv park and we usually do level 3-4 trails and wheeled as hard as possible. I've gotta keep the stock axles for a while till I can get jeep solid axles to put under it if it's possible to do that. The more flex the better. I would like to get as much flex as possible. Lift hight isn't a big deal but would like to get at least 2 1/2 ft. Of flex if not more if that is possible and be able to tuck the tires in the fender wells when flexin on rocks.
 
Idk how much flex the have stock so I put 2 1/2 ft. But would like to get way more flex then stock.
 
Jeep axles suck, just swap in a Dana 44 from a 78-79 f150 or bronco. Build extended radius arms off of the stockers, use EB coil springs and a ruff stuff trac bar kit. You can use f250 shock mounts. For the rear I would use trail gear 3in lift leafs. Thats about as simple as it gets and it should work great.

Oh yea, and FOR THE LOVE OF GOD SEARCH! All of this has been covered so many friggin times
 
I wouldn't mess around with Jeep axles... The front D30 from a Jeep may be a little stronger than your D28, but it's not as strong as the D35 from an Explorer, and it just bolts in (your stock 7.5" rear is better than a Jeep rear D35 already)

What size tires are you ultimately planning on? Maybe take a look at my build for some ideas (link in sig).

Edit:
Too slow on the jeep axles :icon_twisted:
 
It will be wheeled at super lift orv park and we usually do level 3-4 trails and wheeled as hard as possible. I've gotta keep the stock axles for a while till I can get jeep solid axles to put under it if it's possible to do that. The more flex the better. I would like to get as much flex as possible. Lift hight isn't a big deal but would like to get at least 2 1/2 ft. Of flex if not more if that is possible and be able to tuck the tires in the fender wells when flexin on rocks.

my local club has superlift as our local venue park... superlift is a nice place. i like it.

personally, if i was you... i'd just get the ford hp d44/9" combo now, build it right. coils up front w/ the stock ra's and 9" rear w/ some good soft leafs.

you're not gonna be able to 3-4's over there likely with stock axles. the d28/7.5 is weak for that. plus you'll be running what? at least 33's locked diffs? you're gonna break it... plus why spend money on the ttb stuff when you know you're gonna sas? seriously...spend the money once and be done. do the ford hp d44/9" now. that's my plan for an explorer i have... maybe i'll see you at superlift one day. :icon_thumby:
 
OK... you want to build a rock crawler... keep it LOW. You do not need a lift. It is easy to cut your fenders to clear 33" tires, I have done it.

Personally, if I was building another TTB rig (and I will one day) I would leave it right at stock height, no TTB lift crap, no gay body lift, nothing. I would build extended radius arms and run a D35/D44 hybrid with long, soft Jeep coils, coilovers, or ORI struts.

Of course when you have that much time and money into building a TTB axle to both work well and not break, you will have as much money into it as you would building a really nice solid axle D44 or even a D60.

My advice is pick the tire size you ultimately want to run, and build your truck around that.
 
Here is proof of 33" tires on a stock height truck with NO rubbing. I cut about 4" out of the fender and a lot out of the plastic inner liner. This was my old tough truck.

10-29-09_2119.jpg
 
long soft coils, cut and turned beams or skyjacker brackets, extended radius arms, crossover steering, long good shocks.... lots of money!

to do that, you might as well build it right the first time... what's your FINAL plan for the truck? sas'ed and 35's? 35's will do most all the trails at superlift if you have a good spotter. 33's might even, if you don't mind damage lol.

if you're not staying at ttb... i wouldn't lift it and make it flex. if you want sas, do it now. i'm not saying sas is the only way to go... i'm not sas'ing my rig. but i'm not trying to do 4's either.
 

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