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axle truss?


My 8.8 has disk brakes, and the flex lines coming off of each caliper mount to the spring perches, with the main flex line coming from the driver side perch.. Now that I flipped them, the flex lines don't mount without conflicting with the leaf springs. I decided I'm going to the local pull-a-part to get a flex line from another 8.8 passenger side caliper. Then I can use the BII steel lines that have the main flex line coming from the center. (like you have 59bisquick)
FrankBoss, sure, I'd be happy to help as I can, what are you doing?
 
You just reminded me of what I did, I had a spare passenger side line and then fabbed everything up so I could use the center brake line.

And yes...good eye, that is a spare rear driveshaft. My rig carries a ton of driveline spares. An entire front and rear axle shaft set, u-joints for axles and drive shafts, hubs, rear driveshaft and some other misc stuff.
 
59 busiquick. Cool, sounds like you're well prepared. I'm working in that direction, but have a ways to go, still. Working with 0 budget is tricky...
I just got back from the Pull-a-part yard, and found the passenger side flex hose I need, and another steel line with centered main flexline, from an EXP. Guess I'll get out there and start fabbing that stuff to fit, cost $13 all together. Hopefully thats all I need to get it ready to bolt up. I still need to weld on the shock mounts, but that'll happen when I can put them in place and get the right angles. I'll have to see about the E-brake lines, as wellI have the originals to the Exp that the 8.8 came from, DK if they'll work, yet.
 
I originally used the exp parking brakes. I that to splice them under the cab with some cable clamps and make a few brackets. I eventually took them off and added a line lock since when I flexed it out, the rear parking brake cable on the drivers side would pull tight and not let it droop far enough.

Some of the trails I have been on...a full set of driveline spares is a must!
 
OK. All that is done. The finished product looks the same, but simi-gloss black. I'll show that soon. What have you guys done about remounting the brake lines? The brackets are now exactly backwards, and I'm thinking I need to make an extension bar, downwards to stay with existing stuff. Any ideas?

That's what I did on mine, worked out fine. I used pieces of 3/4" x 1/8" steel strip, about an inch or so long.
 
OK. Finished rattle can product. I used self etching primer, and simi-gloss black. ( it willl get pretty dirty, so color isn't really an issue to me). Here is front view, rear view, and a detail of the driver side flexline attachment.

1. On driver side I used a late model 8.8 disk brake flex line (From passenger side)
2.In center, I used a late model EXP 8.8 center main flexline, and related (modified/shortened) steel lines.
2. On passenger side, I used the original flex line, but re-shaped the bracket into an "L" shape so it would rebolt and hang below spring mount.

Remember, I still have not welded the shock mounts. (to be done when installed into my BII, to make sure shock mount angles are correct)
 

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Looks good! Now how about some diff protection? That stock cover doesnt do well when bumping into stuff.
 
Oh, yeah, actually I was toying with a design for a bolt-on diff cover gaurd. I'm still unsure about the details. Temporarily, I may leave it as is, in favor of some other things I need/ want to get done. One way or another, I'll have to build my own, since $$$$ is tight. Got some ideas?
 
I have a BDS diff protector on my front diff that could easily be duplicated. The rear is a Ruff Stuff cover that is literally bomb proof. While it is much tougher that the rock guard on the front, the front one is effective and was free at the time and the Ruff Stuff was around 100 dollars out of my pocket.
 
Would you mind posting a pic of your front cover? maybe I can get some brain juices flowing on that idea....
 
Thanks 59 bisquick, I appreciate it. Nice chin gaurde. I can see that would be fairly easy to reproduce. Probably the hardest part there, would be the mounting plate that bolts on over the cover. If I use the cover itself as a template, I should be able to make it fairly easily. I'll give that some thought. I was thinking about making a gaurde that bolts to the bottom holes on the cover, but has a "v" shaped brace that wraps up over the cover and bolts to the truss. Still toying about that idea...
 
welding the tubes in your back yard can do little to no good at all. welding mild-steel tubes to a cast-iron housing requires the proper use of pre-heating in the right spots or else it just makes the weld (and the surrounding metal) more brittle than it even was to begin with. i wish i had a dollar for every mustang guy around here who just blasted a bead around his 8.8 tubes. just to tear the diff apart right there before even hitting the 60-foot line at the drag-strip

lol nice touch on neg repping me because you didnt like my comment about what i said.

ive welded up atleast 40-50 8.8's under mustangs, some under 1Khp cars and never had a problem. the center sections are CAST STEEL which means you can weld to them but i guess you know more then everybody else on the internet.

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Damn Slo-Vo!! Thats nice! :icon_thumby::icon_thumby::icon_thumby:
 

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