Auto to manual swap

[Fsmith]

I’m finishing up my 2002 Edge Tremor edition extended cab auto to manual swap. Having issues with the pats and the clutch safety switch. parts I’ve used listed below.

2003 5spd trans
2003 ecu
2005 engine harness
Factory 2002 dash harness
I’ve read that the 05 trucks don’t have the pats system, am I screwed with the 05 engine harness or will it work for my swap?

I’ve also read and seen in videos that the clutch safety switch plug is tied up in the 02 dash harness ( I can’t find it). I’ve also read that they stopped wiring the trucks for manual transmissions in 01 and switched to two different harnesses for auto or manual in 02.

If I use an 05 ecu will that fix my issue with the pats and eliminate it all together or do I need an 03 engine harness and reprogram the pats?
Can I bypass the clutch switch or or wire the plug into my 02 dash harness?
Any direction, tips or advise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

 

[franklin2]

PATS works by incorporating a transponder in the key that communicates with the vehicle's engine control module. When the key is inserted and turned, the transponder sends a unique code to the engine immobilizer. If the code matches, the engine starts. If not, the engine remains immobilized, preventing theft.

From the above quote, your PATS system with a different engine computer will never work. Unless you get the new computer re-programmed to be compatible with your old PATS system. If you plug your original automatic computer back in, I bet the PATS would be happy.

I personally never worry about the clutch interlock. If the truck happens to quit in the middle of the road, it's handy to crank the starter with the truck in gear and the clutch out to move the truck out of traffic.

 

[Brain75]

there is another thread here on the same swap - thing is you end up with both the clutch triple function switch and the auto NSS wiring, you have to just jumper out the NSS so it behaves like a stock manual trans... give me a couple to google it up
This is for 2001:

2001 ranger neutral safety wiring!!

Just finished my auto to manual swap in an 01 ranger 2.3 2wd. Now all I need to do to start it up is figure out the neutral safety wires so I can splice them together. Anyone have an idea which color wires they are? Thanks

www.therangerstation.com

also PATS comes in a lot of flavors, so if you see people (even experts like RonD) saying grab the ECU and module - that is only true for some PATS models... some years it is a module some it is the entire dash cluster, etc.

It looks like All the years in question here are system type E for PATS:

PATS, Sticky thread?

We get a fair number of PATS questions, and in searching I found this: https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/understanding-ford-pats-the-passive-antitheft-system-explained/ Up till now I only thought of PATS flavors as 1 and 2, not A/B/C/D/E/F/G, and didn't know the diagnostics of "if it runs...

www.therangerstation.com

and from a quick deep dive I see the system E does not have a standalone module to grab from the donor.

 

[Fsmith]

PATS works by incorporating a transponder in the key that communicates with the vehicle's engine control module. When the key is inserted and turned, the transponder sends a unique code to the engine immobilizer. If the code matches, the engine starts. If not, the engine remains immobilized, preventing theft.

From the above quote, your PATS system with a different engine computer will never work. Unless you get the new computer re-programmed to be compatible with your old PATS system. If you plug your original automatic computer back in, I bet the PATS would be happy.

I personally never worry about the clutch interlock. If the truck happens to quit in the middle of the road, it's handy to crank the starter with the truck in gear and the clutch out to move the truck out of traffic.

I know and understand what the pats is, I have a friend that’s a locksmith and has completely wiped the ecu of all keys and has gotten the ecu to be able to be programmed. But the truck still isn’t turning over. With that happening we’re not sure if it’s the pats or the fact that the clutch safety switch isn’t connected. The ecu is a manual ecu, so if it’s looking for the css and it’s not there is that the reason it’s not turning over, or being the engine harness is from an 05 does it not have the pats wiring in it cause they didn’t use pats in the 05 v6 trucks?

 

[Fsmith]

there is another thread here on the same swap - thing is you end up with both the clutch triple function switch and the auto NSS wiring, you have to just jumper out the NSS so it behaves like a stock manual trans... give me a couple to google it up
This is for 2001:

2001 ranger neutral safety wiring!!

Just finished my auto to manual swap in an 01 ranger 2.3 2wd. Now all I need to do to start it up is figure out the neutral safety wires so I can splice them together. Anyone have an idea which color wires they are? Thanks

www.therangerstation.com

also PATS comes in a lot of flavors, so if you see people (even experts like RonD) saying grab the ECU and module - that is only true for some PATS models... some years it is a module some it is the entire dash cluster, etc.

It looks like All the years in question here are system type E for PATS:

PATS, Sticky thread?

We get a fair number of PATS questions, and in searching I found this: https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/understanding-ford-pats-the-passive-antitheft-system-explained/ Up till now I only thought of PATS flavors as 1 and 2, not A/B/C/D/E/F/G, and didn't know the diagnostics of "if it runs...

www.therangerstation.com

and from a quick deep dive I see the system E does not have a standalone module to grab from the donor.
[/
I’ve seen some posts about the css, but most of them are the older late 90’s trucks and all the 2.3 4cyl. I haven’t been able to locate anything on the 2000’s trucks with the v6. Not sure how much of the wiring is going to be the same between the 4th and 6cyl. The new ecu is being reprogrammed by my friend who is a locksmith, it’s been wiped clean of all keys and is recognized by his computers but loses connection for some reason. It’s hard to pin point with having two different electrical issues. Not sure if the pats isn’t working correctly or if it’s not turning over cause it’s looking for the css.

 

[Brain75]

which dash cluster are you using? I get the 2002 dash harness but which cluster are you using with the 2003 computer.... first off to eliminate pats I would try the married pair of the 2003 instrument cluster with the 2003 computer (fairly sure PATS is half in each of those parts in system E).... if that works then it is in the pats delete, if it doesn't then probably in your clutch and neutral safety switch wiring...

 

[franklin2]

Here is a diagram of the 2005 starting system. You can see the starter relay goes through the ECM for starting.

 

[franklin2]

Here's the part you were worried about. This has to work also. You should be able to get a testlight and probe this circuit and see if this part is working. The ECM provides a ground for the relay.

 

[franklin2]

I think I would pull the starter relay out of the underhood fuse box. Then probe the socket to see if the neutral safety and that stuff is working.

 

[Fsmith]

which dash cluster are you using? I get the 2002 dash harness but which cluster are you using with the 2003 computer.... first off to eliminate pats I would try the married pair of the 2003 instrument cluster with the 2003 computer (fairly sure PATS is half in each of those parts in system E).... if that works then it is in the pats delete, if it doesn't then probably in your clutch and neutral safety switch wiring...

2002 cluster, I didn’t think the cluster came into play until 06 or so when they came out with the HEC that was married to the ecu.

 

[Fsmith]

Here's the part you were worried about. This has to work also. You should be able to get a testlight and probe this circuit and see if this part is working. The ECM provides a ground for the relay.

so I pulled the starter relay and I get constant power at the solid yellow wire, power from the ignition switch at the tan/red wire in the start position, ground on the yellow/blue wire and nothing at the blue/pink wire. Is that blue and pink supposed to a second ground triggered from the pats system?

 

[franklin2]

Power at the tan/red wire when the ignition is in start means your neutral safety and all that are ok.

In the diagram I posted, I do not see a blue/pink wire, only a brown/pink wire. You should have power all the time on the brown/pink from the 40 amp fuse. But wiring diagrams are known to have typos, is your power wire from the 40 amp fuse yellow instead of brown/pink?

If you get someone to turn the ignition to start with the relay plugged in, it should click. You might have to put a screwdriver on it to your ear or maybe you can feel it click with your finger.

If it's not clicking, you can take your testlight, hook to the probe to the tan/red, BUT put the ground on the tester on the darkblue/orange. You should get a light or voltage then when the key is turned to start. if you don't, most likely the problem is the ECM is not providing a ground on the darkblue/orange. That is most likely how the PATS controls the starting. The ECM might also tell the injectors not to fire.

You can provide a temporary ground to the darkblue/orange, and I bet when you try to start it, it will crank. But if the PATS system also turns the injectors off it probably will not start.

 

[Fsmith]

That’s kind of where I’m at this point. Grounded the pink and blue wire and the truck turns over and we get a crank no start. My battery is weak, I wasn’t sure if the battery just didn’t have enough juice to run the fuel system. I hear the pump prime and start up. I guess it’s time to get my key guy back out here to try programming the keys again. At least I know the truck will turn over with out the neutral safety or the clutch safety.

 

[Fsmith]

Any idea what this blue plug is? I noticed it was loose when I took the steering column cover off to check the wires on the column.

 

[Roert42]

Pretty sure that’s for the dingger that tells you the key is in the ignition.

I messed it up while screwing around with my steering column a few years ago and the key dinger goes off any time the the door is open now regardless of if the key is in or not.