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auto >standard


ONE possible scenario.
Because you got stopped on a hill.
You are holding the brakes to prevent sliding down/back and you need throttle to get going up the hill. Try is sometime.
It can be done by slipping the clutch and making it hold you instead of the brakes then getting on the gas and trying to make it up. But more than half the time this seems to result in a stall.
I do this every day I drive and when off-road, it takes less than a second to get off the brakes and on the gas with zero rollback :dunno: Also remember this little thing tranfercases have called low range...
 
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The point is that: even the meager 146 is stronger than the a4ld. Also, it would be much cheaper than adapting an AOD.
True. It that is the bottom line then that is the correct choice!


I do this every day I drive and when off-road, it takes less than a second to get off the brakes and on the gas with zero rollback :dunno: Also remember this little thing tranfercases have called low range...
Good, I'm glad.
To me, this means you know your truck well enough to make most anything look easy. Props to you!


The main reason I went manual was reliability, plain and simple.
Then you did the right thing, dont let my noise bother you. You'll learn what stick is about offroad and life will be A-OK
 
the bellhousing bolts (thats what i think there called) not the engin mounts but the other bolts that hold the engine are giving troublenot a lot of room hard to get to might have the engine pulled tonight

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no one else comented yet so ill post it here

day wasnt a complete falure only need to take the bolts mentioned above and the motor mounts and it should come free and one engine down ill what time i get home tomorow might get it out if i get some help (extra set of hands)
 
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for the hell of it im gunna keep the other engine and transmision and depends on how much extra cash i have in the summer build a trail rig and keep the body but i plan on useing the one on and mild off road for hunting season basicaly the trail ride for fun
 
the bellhousing bolts (thats what i think there called) not the engin mounts but the other bolts that hold the engine are giving troublenot a lot of room hard to get to might have the engine pulled tonight

I just had a un-fun time removing and re installing my trans onto my V8. If you think those bolts at the top of the bell housing are tough with your 2.9, try it with a 5.0L. I ended up using an electrical knock-out tool to make two holes in the firewall. Now all I do is stick a socket with extension through the firewall! I have rubber plug for the holes.



for the hell of it im gunna keep the other engine and transmision and depends on how much extra cash i have in the summer build a trail rig and keep the body but i plan on useing the one on and mild off road for hunting season basicaly the trail ride for fun

There was a whole tread a while ago devoted to "how to rig up a trail rig cheap style", I think it ended up off topic thought.
To me an cheap, effective trail rig is something with acceptable ground clearance. And most importantly GOOD TOW POINTS front and back!

So if you want to build a cheap trail rig my advise is rig/build/fab good bumpers with tow points and possibly a winch mount. Splurge on some blocks and coil spacers to get a tiny bit of lift and see if you have any money left for a winch. If it's not going to see much road use then weld at least one diff. With a winch and a welded diff you will go far my friend.
My prioity list for trail rig:
1) tow points
2) abuse friendly bumper
3) winch
4) lift / locker (these two tie for importance)
 
the ranger has quite a bit of clearence so ild lock it first and jimmy rig some sort of lift

1,2,3 are a almost all in one steps build a bumper with tow points and a winch mount guess i need a back bumper too if i do this ill be posting more questions in here somewere. only problem is there trying to put in some new comunity buitification law and they dont want cars left in yards but ill see what i can do

I like that line> there is a diference between haveing a budget and being on a budget
 
I Fried the clutch out of my truck in a bog hole :icon_thumby:
 
the one engine fired today of course i was spaying eather in and it died when i stopped so there is somthing with the fuel for it not firing im gunna look into it it was exiting
 
well couldnt find the problem

the one engine is pulled (good one)

starting to dismantle the slightly better body truck passenger fender is off i need to disconect all of the other stuff on the driver side and then pulla few bolts and it is out then disconecting fuel lines electrical stuff and then the not running motor should come out sometime next weekend ill post some pics later not too exiting ones though...
 
I'm going to swap out my Frankentranny for a M5OD soon too. The autos just suck up way to much of the 140 HP the 2.9 puts out. I actually prefer a manual over a auto for offroad. Much more control going downhill and won't slip going up severe hills due to the pickup getting uncovered of ATF. As for stopping on hills, very important to disable the starter interlock so you CAN start the engine in gear.


BTW, priced out a chrome FX4 shifter. Over $600 retail !!! I'll stick ( no pun intended :icon_rofl: ) to the stock shifter.
 
o i should point out that the title of this thread is auto >standard but what i ment was auto to standard (conversion) not that auto is is better or worce than standard transmisions they both have their advantages
 
one engine is out and the other should come out today as long as i get an extra set of hands to help it coming out both transmissions are still in though...
 
both engines out just trying to deside is swapping the trannies and all the skrewing around is worth it...

cause it has 245ish on the auto... and speaking of relyability it would be coming up soon if anything were to happen and fuel economy should be better in the standard plus i realy like driving stickif u want power u deside when u get it not when the trany feals like downshifting
 
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I do this every day I drive and when off-road, it takes less than a second to get off the brakes and on the gas with zero rollback :dunno: Also remember this little thing tranfercases have called low range...

Takes a lot less than a second to end up on your roof.

On pavement with good traction you can easily get no rollback. Offroad, it's impossible to modulate the clutch well enough to prevent it without sometimes slipping the tires--and if you slip the least bit in some cases you can really be hosed.

I know, everyone will always think that if they were the ones in the seat, it would never have happened--that are too damn good. Or they think they could shift gears in a mud pit.

Or check out this climb--it's snot like mud. Watch my tires while I try to get on the road. The sun on that frozen mud turned it into stuff so slick you couldn't walk up it. You couldn't get enough speed on it in first so you had to shift. And I know everyone is a much better shifter than I am, with ninja reflexes, but you can see the speed come out of it when I shift. In thick mud, it sucks your tires to stop when you touch the clutch.
 
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