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Are Rangers geared poorly?


There is some really good input here guys, thank you! I believe the third thing i did after i got the engine installed and running was to put the zip ties on the throttle to make up for the stretch. I am a pretty able mechanic and under the hood of the eec iv ford ranger I am pretty well at home. Lol. I have about 11,000 miles on the truck since I bought it, mostly highway. She runs really good. The 4.0 clutch swap I think would be very nice, but i was going to opt to that if I changed out the fm146 for an m50d. I think that 4.10s would be awesome to have but on the highway if the motor tachs another extra 500 rpm thats a lot, at say 70 mph. I think adversely affecting mileage (Which isnt super great to begin with) And I must say, I am not saying it wouldnt light up those 31's, I am saying that I wouldnt wanna do what it would take to do that. Lol.
Mileage, if anything, would be better. Small engines like RPMs.
 
Even if say shes doing about 3k at 70mph. If I put 4.10s in, she would be spinning ~3,500. If that means better mileage, Why should I use the overdrive over 60 mph?Or at all? lol. Does that mean I cant do 70 for prolonged times? I mean I mostly travel at 60 - 65 but you get caught in the flow of traffic and your running 70 at least. Personally I dont like going any faster in a Ranger, its pointless. That is the only good part about my retarded gearing, open on the parkway she does really good for what she is.
 
What does it run going down the road now?

There is a balance for how high your RPM should run. Too high can be as bad as too low.

There is nothing retarded about your gearing that way, it wasn't meant from the factory to have 31's. Besides that I don't think 3.73's should be all that bad with 31's anyway.
 
It'll only be 2500 RPMs at 70...

I ran 31s with 4.10s, It's perfect for a 2.9 and 4.0.
 
Sorry to jump in but my 92 ranger 4x4 stick with a 2.9 has 33's. What gear should I go with? I'm not a freeway runner just 60 mph really with most under that. What gears would you guys recommend and how much would this cost me???
I want lowend snap but don't want to go over board.
She's an extended cab too so I'm sure that adds a little weight.

Thanks
Jeff
 
Sorry to jump in but my 92 ranger 4x4 stick with a 2.9 has 33's. What gear should I go with? I'm not a freeway runner just 60 mph really with most under that. What gears would you guys recommend and how much would this cost me???
I want lowend snap but don't want to go over board.
She's an extended cab too so I'm sure that adds a little weight.

Thanks
Jeff

4.56 or 4.88's would be perfect.
 
There is some really good input here guys, thank you! I believe the third thing i did after i got the engine installed and running was to put the zip ties on the throttle to make up for the stretch. I am a pretty able mechanic and under the hood of the eec iv ford ranger I am pretty well at home. Lol. I have about 11,000 miles on the truck since I bought it, mostly highway. She runs really good. The 4.0 clutch swap I think would be very nice, but i was going to opt to that if I changed out the fm146 for an m50d. I think that 4.10s would be awesome to have but on the highway if the motor tachs another extra 500 rpm thats a lot, at say 70 mph. I think adversely affecting mileage (Which isnt super great to begin with) And I must say, I am not saying it wouldnt light up those 31's, I am saying that I wouldnt wanna do what it would take to do that. Lol.

4.10s and the m50dr1 is gonna give u the same gearing wise feeling as fm146 and the 3.73a' the 146 is geared much deeper to make up for the smaller 2.9...

do the 4.0 clutch upgrade, leave ur trans alone, and u shouldnt have to give it anything really to have it get out of its own way, my always seemed to just fine


i
 
Sorry to jump in but my 92 ranger 4x4 stick with a 2.9 has 33's. What gear should I go with? I'm not a freeway runner just 60 mph really with most under that. What gears would you guys recommend and how much would this cost me???
I want lowend snap but don't want to go over board.
She's an extended cab too so I'm sure that adds a little weight.

Thanks
Jeff
I'd go 5.13 since you only want to go 60. Problem is to go anything over 4.56 you need a D35 and 8.8 which is a good idea anyways with 33s. 4.88 minimum.
4.10s and the m50dr1 is gonna give u the same gearing wise feeling as fm146 and the 3.73a' the 146 is geared much deeper to make up for the smaller 2.9...

do the 4.0 clutch upgrade, leave ur trans alone, and u shouldnt have to give it anything really to have it get out of its own way, my always seemed to just fine


i
The non-4.0 M5OD and the FM146 are geared nearly identical and the 4.0 M5OD still has the same 4th and OD ratio.
 
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These 7.5's won't hold up? Not like I'm going to runaround burning the tires just want the grunt power where it's actually used and sling some mud sometimes. The cost of switching to the 8.8 would take awhile and never had the plan of switching to the v-8 for this ranger within the next couple years so wouldn't that be overkill?
The cost would triple if I had to get 8.8s, get the gears done, freshn up all the brakes and then the cost of swapping stuff to put it in? Trying to budget as well as I can :).
 
These 7.5's won't hold up? Not like I'm going to runaround burning the tires just want the grunt power where it's actually used and sling some mud sometimes. The cost of switching to the 8.8 would take awhile and never had the plan of switching to the v-8 for this ranger within the next couple years so wouldn't that be overkill?
The cost would triple if I had to get 8.8s, get the gears done, freshn up all the brakes and then the cost of swapping stuff to put it in? Trying to budget as well as I can :).

Supposedly you can still get the 5.13s for the 7.5 but I'd recommend against it, the pinion gets really small at that ratio.
 
Okay so 4.56's are my best option for the 7.5's.

Any ballpark figures on parts and install?
I found $210 rear gears would I need master kit?
Is it only a 28 up front?? If so they don't list 4.56's for it? Once again master kit or not?

Really appreciate the feedback and help guys. Just can't beat good advice.


Jeff
 
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I'd go 5.13 since you only want to go 60. Problem is to go anything over 4.56 you need a D35 and 8.8 which is a good idea anyways with 33s. 4.88 minimum.

The non-4.0 M5OD and the FM146 are geared nearly identical and the 4.0 M5OD still has the same 4th and OD ratio.

ok....so u have to fine a transmission that was ONLY used in 4 years inorder for it to make sense....

most of the m50dr1s people are buying and able to find came behind a 4.0, i wouldnt swap a 4.0 m50dr1 insplace of a fm146 UNLESS its garbage...
 
Okay so 4.56's are my best option for the 7.5's.

Any ballpark figures on parts and install?
I found $210 rear gears would I need master kit?
Is it only a 28 up front?? If so they don't list 4.56's for it? Once again master kit or not?

Really appreciate the feedback and help guys. Just can't beat good advice.


Jeff
Sorry, you've got a D35, missed the "92" part...

If you do a ranger 8.8 swap it won't cost much and it'll bolt in. 4.56s will be OK but 4.88s and 5.13s will be much better. I basically have 33s with 4.56s and a 4.0, half the time I wish I had 4.88s. Gears/install kit average $300ish per axle, labor is usually another $200-300 per axle.
ok....so u have to fine a transmission that was ONLY used in 4 years inorder for it to make sense....

most of the m50dr1s people are buying and able to find came behind a 4.0, i wouldnt swap a 4.0 m50dr1 insplace of a fm146 UNLESS its garbage...
I woulnd't want a 4.0 M5OD behind a 2.9 either but I'm just sayin'...
 
Factory fgearing was based on getting mileage in the EPA's test cycle drive to determine fuel economy.

the problem is the model they were using at the time was fundementally flawed
(do not presume my remarks as implying or suggesting that the new test cycle implemented a few years ago it all that much better)


Frnakly 3.45's common to many 4x4's are just wrong.

3.73's on a 4x4 basically designed for stock 215/75-15's isn't any better.

I found happiness with my 2.9 and 235/75-15's by running 4.10s.

Yeah, you still had to shift out of fifth on an occasional steep hill but
I never found a hill on an interstate that requred downshifting to 3rd... even when towing a 3500lb car on a tow dolly or a 3500# milling machine on a 2000# 16' dovetail trailer.

And my best mileage I ever got (by nearly 2mpg) with the 2.9 engine was with the 4.10 gears driving west on I80 cross pennsylvania in JULY at 75mph with the A/C on full
"Don't want my ice cream to melt" setting

26.2mpg. I repeated this eastbound across Ohio on the return trip

Is your truck geared poorly from the factory? Yes, it is.

It should however be noted that Ford NEVER installed 4.10 gears in a 7.5axle with a V6
and a manual transmission, mostly because the 4.10 ratio 7.5" gears are kinda fragile.

So 3.73'ws is as good as it got.

When I went to 4.10's I did it on an 8.8" axle.

AD
 
Factory fgearing was based on getting mileage in the EPA's test cycle drive to determine fuel economy.

the problem is the model they were using at the time was fundementally flawed
(do not presume my remarks as implying or suggesting that the new test cycle implemented a few years ago it all that much better)


Frnakly 3.45's common to many 4x4's are just wrong.

3.73's on a 4x4 basically designed for stock 215/75-15's isn't any better.

I found happiness with my 2.9 and 235/75-15's by running 4.10s.

Yeah, you still had to shift out of fifth on an occasional steep hill but
I never found a hill on an interstate that requred downshifting to 3rd... even when towing a 3500lb car on a tow dolly or a 3500# milling machine on a 2000# 16' dovetail trailer.

And my best mileage I ever got (by nearly 2mpg) with the 2.9 engine was with the 4.10 gears driving west on I80 cross pennsylvania in JULY at 75mph with the A/C on full
"Don't want my ice cream to melt" setting

26.2mpg. I repeated this eastbound across Ohio on the return trip

Is your truck geared poorly from the factory? Yes, it is.

It should however be noted that Ford NEVER installed 4.10 gears in a 7.5axle with a V6
and a manual transmission, mostly because the 4.10 ratio 7.5" gears are kinda fragile.

So 3.73'ws is as good as it got.

When I went to 4.10's I did it on an 8.8" axle.

AD

So given all that, what's your opinion of 235/75/15 and 3.73s behind a 4.0 OHV? I want to have my final gearing set before the axles go in the truck. Figure since we seem to have similar trucks and to be driving in the same areas you might have a good suggestion.
 

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