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Active Member
Surf report I sent to my friends, thought I would share
I got the Biggest wave of my life – as my First Wave, it was all downhill from there though
I did a 90 min session, got lucky on the paddle out and split the Rips – it was smooth, paddled out, took a breather, set up on a wave, coming coming, crap, get off it, OH shit – Standup – felt like a 5 second drop to the bottom, OMFG, Oh – shit, have to carve – carved hard right, hard enough my butt hit, started closing out, straighten out, rode the white for about 75 yards decided didn’t want to paddle all the way out carved hard right dove in – Wave 1 = 16ft = A smile I could not wipe off, Still can’t
All in all – caught about 15 in the 90 minutes, got Rocked a few times, got pinned a few times for multiple wave sets, duck dived through a wave that was doubling up and got my first ride backwards laying on the board but it dumped me in knee deep water almost before I realized I was going backwards, that one tossed me a few times and made me stand there for a minute before I went back out.
All in All, I kicked Earls Ass, and Earl Kicked My ASS!
We have a mutual respect, the 16ft to start was like jumping off a 2 story building because of the massive amount of speed going down, all I could think was DON’T STRAIGHTEN YOUR KNEES, and what I said above.
In the very end, I realized I was gassed when I made the dumb decision to jump in late on a 8 ftr breaking on the beach = me having to repair my broken board.
Wasn’t much trash in the water, but did get a jelly sting on my left foot, little mustard and all the sting was gone I know I know, didn’t have vinegar but what’s the #1 ingredient in Mustard
I give Earl and Epic 2 thumbs up, I would be going out again today but it’s not Loggable still, and my short board really got rocked on that 8ft beach break Time to break out the Glass for that one
I can’t even tell you all how Stoked I am today – that was Epic – and I was out there, walked out past Droves of People who were too scared, I ****ing rocked it, will be looking for pic’s of me for the next few days as there was a lot of camera’s out there, but we’ll see
I got the Biggest wave of my life – as my First Wave, it was all downhill from there though
I did a 90 min session, got lucky on the paddle out and split the Rips – it was smooth, paddled out, took a breather, set up on a wave, coming coming, crap, get off it, OH shit – Standup – felt like a 5 second drop to the bottom, OMFG, Oh – shit, have to carve – carved hard right, hard enough my butt hit, started closing out, straighten out, rode the white for about 75 yards decided didn’t want to paddle all the way out carved hard right dove in – Wave 1 = 16ft = A smile I could not wipe off, Still can’t
All in all – caught about 15 in the 90 minutes, got Rocked a few times, got pinned a few times for multiple wave sets, duck dived through a wave that was doubling up and got my first ride backwards laying on the board but it dumped me in knee deep water almost before I realized I was going backwards, that one tossed me a few times and made me stand there for a minute before I went back out.
All in All, I kicked Earls Ass, and Earl Kicked My ASS!
We have a mutual respect, the 16ft to start was like jumping off a 2 story building because of the massive amount of speed going down, all I could think was DON’T STRAIGHTEN YOUR KNEES, and what I said above.
In the very end, I realized I was gassed when I made the dumb decision to jump in late on a 8 ftr breaking on the beach = me having to repair my broken board.
Wasn’t much trash in the water, but did get a jelly sting on my left foot, little mustard and all the sting was gone I know I know, didn’t have vinegar but what’s the #1 ingredient in Mustard
I give Earl and Epic 2 thumbs up, I would be going out again today but it’s not Loggable still, and my short board really got rocked on that 8ft beach break Time to break out the Glass for that one
I can’t even tell you all how Stoked I am today – that was Epic – and I was out there, walked out past Droves of People who were too scared, I ****ing rocked it, will be looking for pic’s of me for the next few days as there was a lot of camera’s out there, but we’ll see
