Any experience w/ Rust-Oleum "2-in-1" SANDABLE Primer?

[fixizin]

Sounds like just the ticket for my ALuminum hood shallow corrosion spots, AFTER some self-etching primer (also by Rust-Oleum)...?

Total paint and body noob here, throw me a bone, thanks!

 

[Jazzer]

No experience with that product, just a reminder that you’ll need a self etching primer on aluminum.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I used the 2in1 paint/primer on bare mild steel, and have noticed it is very "sticky"...like is less likely to run and more difficult to clean off hands....also had a good tip and spray pattern. My only caveat would be higher price per and slightly longer dry time than a regular rattle can.

Couldn't tell about sanding results....

Maybe try one can on something test it out for yourself first.

 

[fixizin]

"Sticky" implies it would NOT be very sandable, kinda like epoxy putty (PC-7, JB Weld, etc.), which is strong AF, but would clog up incredible amounts of sandpaper trying to shape it!...

... I'm just trying to avoid having to thin-out Bondo with polyester resin, which is NOT an exact science/known ratio, thus different results with each batch, etc...

 

[Eddo Rogue]

"Sticky" implies it would NOT be very sandable, kinda like epoxy putty (PC-7, JB Weld, etc.), which is strong AF, but would clog up incredible amounts of sandpaper trying to shape it!...

... I'm just trying to avoid having to thin-out Bondo with polyester resin, which is NOT an exact science/known ratio, thus different results with each batch, etc...

I never tried sanding it, but that makes sense. It is "goopier" than normal. Sprsys pretty thick too. I use it for outdoor stuff or metal that needs rust sealing but dont need to be pretty

 

[RobbieD]

"Sticky" implies it would NOT be very sandable, kinda like epoxy putty (PC-7, JB Weld, etc.), which is strong AF, but would clog up incredible amounts of sandpaper trying to shape it!...

A "work around" for that could be to wet sand it, instead of using dry paper. After the paint has dried as dry as it's going to get. You can even add a drop or two of dish washing detergent to your water to help keep your sand paper from clogging.

 

[Brain75]

That's exactly what I did (after I ruined the first disc trying dry sanding in about 2 1/2 seconds....).

I quick hit any goobers with a cheese grater when it wasn't half hard yet, then started wet sanding a little past the earliest I thought possible. Worked fine for me and I even used the cheapest junk sandpaper I could get on amazon (alu oxide)

 

[Brain75]

when I did mine I googled how to thin out bondo and read in a few places acetone so that is what I used.... it's only been since october so I can't tell you the long term success, but it worked fine for me.

 

[fixizin]

GREAT info, but... back to the original proposal: Rust-O sandable primer... is it the ticket for filling in THIN voids? Anybody got pics?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thin voids? Spot putty. Comes in a tube. Usually used for filling in pinholes and small divots as a close to last step.

 

[Shran]

Yeah, spot putty for stuff like that. If you've got the whole panel down to bare metal though, I might suggest a really thin layer of 2 part filler (bondo.)

Be careful with etch primer. It will chemically react with a lot of other paints.

 

[fixizin]

OK, lastly, how to strip WAX before getting into da Priming and da Filling, i.e. right now I've got the whole hood slathered in Meguiar's carnauba wax, but obviously I need to get every last bit of it out of the pits and voids, and even from the "good" areas, before the sanding and priming... MINERAL SPIRITS??

 

[rumblecloud]

I've used Rustoleum Aircraft remover on hoods and doors to strip down to bare metal as a start and it works well. There are other brands that also carry the "Aircraft" label. Fresh air required...

 

[fixizin]

I've used Rustoleum Aircraft remover on hoods and doors to strip down to bare metal as a start and it works well. There are other brands that also carry the "Aircraft" label. Fresh air required...

Sounds extreme but... gotta mask all the surrounding parts of the truck anyway... but STRIPPER needs to be kept out of the engine bay... will have to test it on a corner of my old plastic shower curtains that I'm planning to use for "shields"...

My XL didn't come with an underhood blanket, so it's "nekkid" and will have to be closely inspected for corrosion... I mean if it's GTG after 26 years, do I really want/need to prime/re-paint the under-side?

 

[fixizin]

...
Be careful with etch primer. It will chemically react with a lot of other paints.

Yeah but, Rust-o brand self-etching primer, right on the bare metal, should be compatible with follow-on coats of Rust-o sandable primer, yes/no?