Another slave cylinder thread...

[cmattina]

So you push in the clutch while in gear, and the truck will roll down a slope? That means the clutch is disengaging. It may not be disengaging 100%; the weight of the truck may be enough to overcome any leftover drag. I would try jacking up the rear end and spinning the tires by hand with it in gear and with the clutch pushed in. The wheels should be easy to rotate by hand. If not, the clutch may be dragging.

Pilot bearing is still my guess, because it happens when the engine is running -- the input shaft is still spinning even with the clutch pushed in.

I did encounter one clutch that was dragging because the friction disc was coated with grease and oil, but the inside of your bellhousing looks clean.

While running, it rolls forward while in reverse and clutch depressed and roles backward in 1st while clutch depressed. Momentum feels the same as when in neutral.

I did an eyeball test with the clutch off it seems to move at least the distance of the collar. I am told the spec is 5/16th movement.

I will try spinning the driveshaft with clutch depressed. I will also see WHEN clutch pedal's travel the truck starts rolling.

 

[fastpakr]

While running, it rolls forward while in reverse and clutch depressed and roles backward in 1st while clutch depressed.

Is that what you meant to say, i.e. that it moves in the opposite direction of the selected gear when the clutch is pushed in?

 

[Josh B]

The throwout bearing always spins

Would the throwout not be on duty while the clutch is engaged? I thought the throwout was at the end of slave and therefore get pushed up against the fingers when the pedal is depressed?

Either way will have a listen

I can't find much to quote from the manual but this,
While verifying the condition, determine whether the noise is gear roll-over noise, release bearing rub or some other transmission related noise. Gear roll-over noise, inherent in manual transmission, is caused by the constant mesh gears turning at engine idle speed, while the clutch is engaged and the transmission is in neutral; and release bearing rub is sometimes mistaken for mainshift bearing noise. Gear roll-over noise will disappear when the clutch is disengaged or when the transmission is engaged in gear. Release bearing rub will disappear when the clutch is engaged. In the event that a bearing is damaged, the noise is more pronounced while engaged in gear under load or coast than in neutral.

 

[cmattina]

Is that what you meant to say, i.e. that it moves in the opposite direction of the selected gear when the clutch is pushed in?

Yes, i tried those particular gears because in first, if the clutch was dragging it would roll forward. In reverse, with the clutch dragging, it would roll backward. So those gears/direction help prove it is fully disengaging?

 

[Josh B]

With the clutch pedal fully depressed(the clutch should be fully released) it should not roll in any direction
If it does the problem is most likely in the hydraulic system

 

[cmattina]

With the clutch pedal fully depressed(the clutch should be fully released) it should not roll in any direction
If it does the problem is most likely in the hydraulic system

No, the opposite. Depressing mean "to press in". So when i press the clutch pedal, the clutch disc disengages allowing the wheels/driveshaft to spin freely.

 

[cmattina]

So you push in the clutch while in gear, and the truck will roll down a slope? That means the clutch is disengaging. It may not be disengaging 100%; the weight of the truck may be enough to overcome any leftover drag. I would try jacking up the rear end and spinning the tires by hand with it in gear and with the clutch pushed in. The wheels should be easy to rotate by hand. If not, the clutch may be dragging.

Pilot bearing is still my guess, because it happens when the engine is running -- the input shaft is still spinning even with the clutch pushed in.

I did encounter one clutch that was dragging because the friction disc was coated with grease and oil, but the inside of your bellhousing looks clean.

Did the test. the driveshaft spins freely when the pedal is pressed in about 3/4s of the way.

So, back to pilot bearing i guess. Could it be throwout?

 

[BlackBII]

The throwout bearing just spins freely against the pressure plate. It's not connected in any way to the clutch friction disc or input shaft.

 

[cmattina]

The throwout bearing just spins freely against the pressure plate. It's not connected in any way to the clutch friction disc or input shaft.

so should not affect shifting?

 

[cmattina]

As an update... the temperature has plumeted to sub zero highs and will stay like that for the rest of the winter. Shifting has got substantially better... perhaps temperature related. However, right when it got cold i realize by driver's side hub/bearing was totally shot (perhaps has been bad for some time). Right after changing the hub, shifting got a lot better... But that was also the same time as temp change...

Perhaps it was driveline bind???

 

[cnord]

I just when through all this. I have a 96 Ranger XLT 4X4 4.0l M5OD-R1. I was having difficulty shifting into 1st gear while at a complete stop.... a classic slave cylinder issue where is does not completely disengage. Replacing the slave cylinder solved my issue – shifts like a new vehicle.

So I pulled the transmission and replaced the clutch pack, flywheel, pilot bearing, slave cylinder and rear main seal

Stuff I learned:
Remove the front fender well liners and wheels. Makes from better access.

Removing the Y-pipe from the exhaust manifolds was a huge hassle. I used my complete playbook of tricks and still managed to snap one of the bolts (no damage to the manifold!). I was able to drill it out without having to pull the manifold. For the reinstall I used bolts where I welded a tab on the nut to prevent it from spinning. The bolts go through the existing threaded holes on the manifold flange. I gooped the threads with nickel anti seize. I now have the option of cutting out the bolts if need be. See photos.

The transmission mounting bolts were a major hassle to remove. You will need long extensions, universal joints, impact tool. The top two you can access from the back of the engine compartment. On the reinstall I put a dab of anti seize on the threads and used lock washers. In the future it should unbolt without having to really mash on it. The last thing I wanted to do was to snap a bolt in the block, but I was able to get them all out.

Get a transmission jack.







You will want to remove the transfer case prior to dropping the transmission; easy. Make sure to get a replacement gasket.

Used ½ impact wrench to remove the flywheel to crank bolts. On the reinstall you will need a way to secure the flywheel so you can get the torque correct.

I bucked up and got a main seal install tool; used a FEL-PRO seal BS40619 with a wear collar. Worked great no leaks.

Good luck.

 

[cmattina]

So, it has been almost a year and the problem has seems have "fixed itself". I think it is temperature or moisture related. I will keep an eye on the master and change as necessary, as it was leaking before.

I still have a new Luk slave and Luk clutch kit sitting on the shelf. I am happy i waited, and will continue to wait.