Am I on borrowed time? Fuel pump Q'n

[stinkijeans]

2001 Ranger,
4.0 SOHC, 4x4, XLT Supercab,
146,354 miles.


I've read multiple threads similar to my question, but it seems the time to replace your fuel pump seems to vary greatly... Some have crapped out at 50k and others over 200k.

My question (concern actually): Am I on borrowed time to replace the pump?


It's running great; however it still has a start problem its had for years.
ONLY when it's hot outside, and after I've ran the engine (for example - you run to lunch break at work)... at quitting time, it hard-starts.
Very weird problem. Again, it's had this for years.
I was told it may be a ground issue at the pump itself, but I never investigated. I figured I'd do that when I replace the pump someday.


So back to my question:

At 146k miles... should I go ahead and replace it? How long can they last?

My concern is... I often visit our deep deserts in the Spring and Summer. I carry a universal pump for emergencies, but I would rather not have to replace it in the middle of B.F.E.



What do you think?

SJ.

 

[adsm08]

My original fuel pump lasted 20 years. I replaced it because the float on the level sender got punctured and they weren't available separately.

Turn the key on and see if you have pressure at the test port under the hood. Looks like a tire valve. If you do, I would not suspect the pump itself first.

Also, if it was a ground issue, I would think the pump would be cutting out while you are driving.

 

[stinkijeans]

Thank you for the quick reply...

I planned to check the fuel pressure next (when I get a chance).
I would also assume that if it was a ground issue, it would act up at other times. My thoughts were that since it only happens when the truck it 'hot', perhaps something is swelling and making a bad connection.

Very strange issue, but it's just annoying at this point.
I would dive into the wire connections, but as you know... it's not that simple to get at the pump.

SJ

 

[adsm08]

I know that on the 02-04 Explorers there was a calibration issue with the PCM. Every so often the PCM and ABS modules would disagree on the VIN and it would cause a hard starting issue. I'm not sure that it affected the Rangers, but the fix was a PCM update.

I think the issue is something specific to the Explorer ABS module though. If have an in at a dealership you might want to have him check for updates.

If you PM me your VIN I'll run a check for known issues if I can. The system gets sketchy with vehicles over 10 years old.

 

[stinkijeans]

PM sent.

Thank you!!

 

[adsm08]

I only found 2 known common issues. Bad crank sensor, and water getting into a connector under the driver's seat. I'm gonna say the second one is unlikely since it brings a host of other issues including check engine light, ABS light, and erratic speedo operation.

The crank sensor is a 50/50 shot, but might be worth trying.

 

[stinkijeans]

Hmmm.. It could be the crank sensor I suppose.
I already replaced the cam sensor some time ago, but it wasn't the problem. It wouldn't hurt replacing the crank sensor. They aren't terribly expensive.

Question:

I noticed the crank sensors come in a few different configurations that claim to fit my engine. Even the Motorcraft brand.
The OEM sensor currently on my engine doesn't look anything like the ones I found at local store's web sites. They are flatter, thinner, etc.

Did Ford change the package design (as they are famous for) ?
I assume as long as it bolts up, it should work?

I prefer to buy Motorcraft when it comes to critical components such as this.

Thanks,


PS:

I was under my truck yesterday replacing my fuel filter and I noticed the under-seat connector you mentioned.
Would it hurt to seal that connector with some silicone or other sealer to be on the safe-side? Or I can build some sort of splash-shield. I work in a machine shop, so it would be very easy to make something.
I'm not sure why Ford put a connector like that in a place it could get moisture. You'd think they would put something around it at the very least (IMO).

 

[doorgunner]

I'm not sure why Ford put a connector like that in a place it could get moisture. You'd think they would put something around it at the very least (IMO).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thier mechanics need the work. Simil(i)ar reason why the tank pumps are sold as "units"-----makes you spend big $$$$$$$ when you only need a 5 $ part to repair the thang......



ohhhhh....i forgot.......mines is now 22 years old....I cleaned all the rust scale/corrosion off'n it & brazed the pinholes in the metal tube just in case it decides to last another 20 years...I also did the bed floor with planks covered with diamondplate aluminum----just in case the pump don't last....it takes 5 minutes to remove the floor & pump including sipping coffee........waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahhahhahahhahhahahaaaaaa

 

[stinkijeans]

WOW! 20 and 22 years on those pumps.
I guess mine is still just a pup!

I was also thinking about putting an "access" plate above my pump. You'd think in Ford's (and other manufacturers) divine wisdom would put a plate there and make the pump replacement 1000-times easier and quicker?

Doorgunner: Do you think you could post a picture of your diamond plate access port and some location measurements (from inside the bed of course)? It would help me take out some guess work if I decide to cut a hole.

Thanks a million everyone.

SJ

 

[stinkijeans]

Replaced Crankshaft sensor

I went ahead and replaced my crankshaft sensor. Only time will tell if that solves my secondary problem when the weather gets warmer.

Does anyone happen to know how to test the crankshaft sensor?
I assume it suppose to read a certain amount of resistance between the connections on the sensor? My old senor is reading 460 ohms.
I'm curious if my factory sensor is out-of-whack. If it isn't, then into the spare-parts box it goes!

Thanks everyone... this site rocks!

Stinki

 

[Moreflying]

WOW! 20 and 22 years on those pumps.
I guess mine is still just a pup!

I was also thinking about putting an "access" plate above my pump. You'd think in Ford's (and other manufacturers) divine wisdom would put a plate there and make the pump replacement 1000-times easier and quicker?

Doorgunner: Do you think you could post a picture of your diamond plate access port and some location measurements (from inside the bed of course)? It would help me take out some guess work if I decide to cut a hole.

Thanks a million everyone.

SJ

Yep...I've got darn near 220,000 on my original pump and just tested it recently. It was well within specs.