Alternator Wiring

[DeMilled_83_4x4]

The OEM wire harness went up in smoke, literaly, so I have been re-wiring the truck from bumper to bumper and have gotten to the charging system.

I have a Motorcraft alternator. Thats all I know about the alt. besides the fact that it has the following terminals on it: BAT FLO GRD and of course an unmarked terminal.
If I understand things right I need to wire the alt. like this...

BAT= Hot wire that goes to the + post on the battery.

FLO= Ignition On/Key Hot wire goes here.

GRD= Ground the alternator.

Does that look right? Have I missed anything?
Do I need a voltage regulator in my system, if so where in the power circuit would the regulator need to be?

 

[MAKG]

If you're rewiring, you simply must have a factory wiring diagram. Check E-bay.

And you can probably find a decent harness in the junkyard. Might save you a WHOLE LOT of work.

 

[DeMilled_83_4x4]

I really don't want to use a junk yard wiring harness since I have already replaced the chassis and ignition wiring with new wires and all that is good to go. The stock wiring is what went up in smoke the first time (Black with Red Stripe) so that's about the last thing I want to have under the hood.
All I need to wire up is my charging system.

I did come across this little gem from AutoZone.com that has answered my question, maybe it can help someone else.....

The alternator charging system consists of the alternator, voltage regulator, warning light, battery, and fuse link wire.
A failure of any component of the charging system can cause the entire system to stop functioning. Because of this, the charging system can be very difficult to troubleshoot when problems occur.
When the ignition key is turned on, current flows from the battery, through the charging system indicator light on the instrument panel, to the voltage regulator, and to the alternator. Since the alternator is not producing any current, the alternator warning light comes on. When the engine is started, the alternator begins to produce current and turns the alternator light off. As the alternator begins to generate power, the output is divided between the battery to charge the cells, and the electrical components of the vehicle A voltage regulator is wired into the alternator to prevent it from receiving too much power which could cause serious damage to electrical components in the vehicle. Conversely, if the voltage regulator does not allow the alternator to receive enough current, the battery will not be fully charged and will eventually go dead.
The battery is connected to the alternator at all times, whether the ignition key is turned on or not. If the battery were shorted to ground, the alternator would also be shorted. This could damage the alternator. To prevent this, a fuse link is installed in the wiring between the battery and the alternator on all 1970 and later models. If the battery is shorted, the fuse link is melted, protecting the alternator.

 

[MAKG]

If your factory wiring harness lit up on fire so bad as to be unrepairable, the problem was not the harness, but rather the fuel leak.

I've rebuilt several wiring harnesses. It's not that hard. But you do have to identify your problems correctly. Now, unless you are truly anal about documentation, you aren't going to be able to repair this truck when it breaks, and neither will anyone else (and if you are anal about it, shop charges are going to be huge since now you have a unique truck).

 

[DeMilled_83_4x4]

Does onyone know offhand how many AMPs the voltage regulator will want to draw? Or how I would check that myself? I am pretty noob to figuring out electrical mechanics.

I have been considering the two options of having the Key Hot power to the Voltage Regulator on the same fuse as the Key Hot to the DuraSpark Control Module, or having each on their own fuse/circuit.
Any input guys?

 

[MAKG]

You want to fuse your voltage regulator?

Bad idea.

Your VR doesn't draw current. The load does. Depending on which circuit you're talking about, the load is either your alternator field coils or whatever you're running in the electrical system. The VR is a wire when it is closed and an open circuit when it isn't. It's a BIG MISTAKE to think of it as a discrete component. Complete circuits perform functions, and any part taken in isolation is a paperweight.

I'll say it again. You need a factory wiring harness from a junkyard. This thing is going to leave you stranded, and it's going to be a real bitch to repair.

 

[DeMilled_83_4x4]

Yes, MAKG I want to fuse my VR.
I do not understand why you think it would be a bad idea to have a fuse in the circuit that feeds power to the VR, you may have misunderstood what I am doing and that's probably becouse I am sometimes not too clear when I explain things so it's probably my bad on that one.

The good news is that my alternator is wired up complete with VR and looking good so far.
You know what's funny MAKG? When you mentioned paper weights it made me laugh out loud becouse that's exactly what I had been useing my VR for, for the longest time. I had no clue what it was when I was ripping out the OEM wiring but kept it hanging around on my work bench anyway since I am nervous about thowing something away 'till I know what it was. This is the part that made me crack up when I read your post, I had been useing the VR to hold down the wiring diagram that showed me how to wire up the VR into the charging circuit. I literally had no idea what it was and there it was holding down the paper explaining to me what to do with it....oh that was quite the moment right there.

I have been thinking about registering at one of those sites that host your pictures so you can insert them in forums like this one. Can someone reccomend a good site? I will probably go with Car Domain, anyone have any input on them, good or otherwise?
After I get set up with a host for my pictures I will post them and the diagram I used so that you guys can see what I have been doing. I think pictures will explain this much clearer that I can describe with words.