Air Compressor Suggestions

[ford4wd08]

Bringing this thread back up from the dead lol.

What is everyone's thoughts on this compressor?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-KOBALT-30-Gallon-Two-Stage-Portable-Electric-Vertical-Air-Compressor/1000528965

I'm not a professional shop, so I think this would work well for a DIY'er and I like that it can be 120 or 240.

Plus I have a Lowes card that I can get interest free on for 6 months.... I think the Kobalt compressors are made by Ingersol Rand I believe...

 

[ford4wd08]

I also like that the compressor is not stationary. I can move it around in my garage which is always confined for space and reconfigured for storage by me lol.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I probably wouldn't...

I would settle on a place to park a 60 Gallon stationary and be done.

 

[sgtsandman]

It depends on the tools you are going to be running. Sanders and grinders tend to be the real air hogs from what I remember. For an impact gun or something that runs in bursts instead of continuously, it would probably be fine. Someone that has experience with setting up their own shop and tolls will have to expand on the details. The only air tools I use are at work and the setup is on their dime. My tools for home are either hand or electric due to lack of space to put a compressor.

 

[adsm08]

I bought a Kobalt 60 gallon a few years ago. 220V oil lubed. It works well, it isn't excessively loud, but it does get louder as it gets the tank pumped up.

The only thing it doesn't keep up with is a sander, or really extended use of a grinder with no regulator on it. The first year I had it I put so much air through the grinder that the tool and the lines got hot.

 

[ford4wd08]

I think I will and currently use mostly electric tools. If I can find a decent grinder and sander that are electric I think I would prefer it so I don't have to worry as much with air consumption. I really don't care for my oil free compressor. It is load and limited at 20 gallons, but it does still work.

I don't know that I can justify a big 60 gal 220v at this point that gets limited used.

I think the one I have linked from lowes might be a decent compromise.

 

[Rick W]

My choice is always “budget.” Save a little utility money and up front money, and get some flexibility: my shop is about 27x48 and packed to the rafters with 4 generations of who knows what. Air hose was never where I needed it. Soooo...

I ran 3/4” schedule 40 pvc everywhere in the rafters with I think 9 drops. The bottom of each drop is a sideways tee. It’s supplied from the top, and feeds out the side, with about a 6” (Or longer) drain leg below (like a gas line). I drill a pvc cap and install a tire valve/shrader valve pointing down, and use that to drain condensate before each use. I seated the valves with gutter seal. The long drop is for when you have to cut it off every 10 years to change the tire valve. All cheap and easy, one day. You have to do the prime and glue carefully and let it set a week, but indestructible after that.

I amazingly still have my 110v 1hp 1970s 10 gallon oil compressor. I supplemented it with a 20-gallon match I got on Craigslist for $30. I have a third in the wings for a spare (also $30). I have 2 propane tanks (surge tanks) inverted in the rafters on the long legs. I also ran a 3/8” line/tube though a conduit to the kitchen in the house with a lab-style gas valve in the sink.

I haven’t done it yet, But I’m in the process of moving both air compressors to a high shelf under the car port aside the garage. I’m thinking of building a fiberglass insulation-lined box, but I don’t like the current neighbor, so I’ll do that later.

Smaller compressor is set at about 95psi, and the bigger machine is set at about 85. Bigger one rarely runs, but I never run out. I wired both to an 8-hour mechanical timer switch (eBay) and I only twist up the time I need, so hence, I never forget to shut it off when I go to the house.

it’s all ugly, but works great! Hope it helps!

 

[scotts90ranger]

I've been using the 10 year old version of that for about 8 years (craigslist for $200), it's a decent compressor, I think mine cuts off at 145psi or something but it's similarly rated if memory serves... It's on the small sides for me right now and will not run a 3" cutoff grinder worth a darn for long enough to be useful but for air drills, impacts and tires it works very well... I mounted a HFT retractable hose reel to the outside of the garage which is the best garage addition I made so far I think

 

[97RangerXLT]

When my grandpa retired (in his 80s) and sold his farm in 2002 he gave me the 1970s era 20 gallon craftsman 220v compressor that ran the machine shop air on the farm for 30 some years. Didn't have a 220 volt outlet at my house in Illinois. So it sat in the garage or storage until I bought my current house in 2011 and I had a 220 outlet installed in the garage. That has been awesome. I put some black pipe along the back of both of my 8' work benches with a quick connect on each work bench. I also have a Harbour freight 50 foot retractable hose reel and I have enough hose to reach the street. I have a separate pressure regulator and moisture separator as well.

I love the setup.

AJ

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I say look beyond just psi and tank size, and seek the cfm rating. This is what runs high demand air tools like a die grinder. I suggest get the highest cfm air compressor you can find within your budget.

 

[Curious Hound]

I say look beyond just psi and tank size, and seek the cfm rating. This is what runs high demand air tools like a die grinder. I suggest get the highest cfm air compressor you can find within your budget.

Psi and cfm work together, so pay attention to both. Having the cfm at too low of a pressure will not help. The heater blower in our trucks provides lots of cfm. But no pressure. So it won't run an air tool. Conversely, having lots of pressure but at a low volume, will run tools that only need momentary bursts like an air nailer, but will let you down on a tool that needs the pressure for a longer period of time, such as a sander or large grinder. A large tank volume makes up for that, but only to a certain extent. So it depends on what tools you will use the most. The tools should have their air needs listed in the rating on the label. So match the compressor to your hungriest tool.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I ran my Kobalt compressor with a regulator at the die grinder, carbide bits and adjusted the regulator so I had good bit control without having to throttle the air switch for a few hours when I ported the 2.3L head years ago.

That Kobalt is kinda a compromise, has high pressure, somewhat low flow rate and medium tank size. The only time I have flow issues on mine is running the 3" cutoff wheel or using the blowgun for prolonged periods. For the most part it works fine with my die grinder, air ratchet, impacts, air hammer in short bursts, air drill in short bursts and tires and a couple minutes with a high flow airgun. I supplement with electric tools. I think the new one is rated better than mine though, if I remember right mine is 26 gallons and 1.6hp and high pressure of 145 or 150. It is WAY quieter than an oilless compressor though

I do agree though, a upright 60 gallon does have the same footprint and would be nicer...

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Psi and cfm work together, so pay attention to both. Having the cfm at too low of a pressure will not help. The heater blower in our trucks provides lots of cfm. But no pressure. So it won't run an air tool. Conversely, having lots of pressure but at a low volume, will run tools that only need momentary bursts like an air nailer, but will let you down on a tool that needs the pressure for a longer period of time, such as a sander or large grinder. A large tank volume makes up for that, but only to a certain extent. So it depends on what tools you will use the most. The tools should have their air needs listed in the rating on the label. So match the compressor to your hungriest tool.

This is true. I just pay more attention to cfm because most compressors are rated at 90psi or higher, which is plenty... but cfm can vary greatly even with similar tank size. Both do matter, and price range will be the compromise. At work we mostly use 1"x3" studs and 1/4" luan sheets to build walls. Our nailers and staplers like to run at or just below 90psi.

 

[Curious Hound]

As mentioned, having a regulator on the output helps also. Fill the tank to 120-130psi or maybe a bit more if it's rated for it. Then use the regulator to send 90psi to the tools. That helps keep more volume in the tank and reduce how often the compressor runs. So it stays cooler.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The stock regulator on my compressor can't keep up with most tools, I think it is the flow restriction so I just maxxed it out and it runs 120psi to the tools (just on the restriction in the regulator) but tank pressure goes up to 145psi or whatever it's supposed to do, works good on everything, when I need reduced flow I have a regulator with a male and female quick connect to put at the tool to drop it down for say paint spraying where you need like 50psi max... that way the hose is up to pressure and you don't get hose related inconsistencies... My impacts work much better at 120psi than they do at 90psi