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Aftermarket Gauges


chrwilkins30

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
1,720
City
Mishawaka, Indiana
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
I have a 88 bronco 2 with the 2.9 with auto. I am looking into hooking up an aftermarket temp. gauge. I'm not really sure on how to hook it up and was wondering if anyone has done it before. The stocker still works but fluctuates alot so its not really reliable. Plus i like the look of aftermarket ones. I cant really find anything on this procedure so can some one please help!!:beer:
 
if it's fluctuating, it may be an actual problem besides the gauge. check that before you replace the gauge, thinking it's just a faulty gauge.
 
It has always done this since i got it. It has never overheated. It just goes all the way to hot then give it a minute and it drops down into normal range. I would just rather get an aftermarket one for looks and benefits for being more reliable. Have you done this before?:beer:
 
I have a 88 bronco 2 with the 2.9 with auto. I am looking into hooking up an aftermarket temp. gauge. I'm not really sure on how to hook it up and was wondering if anyone has done it before. The stocker still works but fluctuates alot so its not really reliable. Plus i like the look of aftermarket ones. I cant really find anything on this procedure so can some one please help!!:beer:

The aftermarket gauge will probably have the sending unit to install, and a lot of them come with the correct brass fitting to fasten the sending unit in (or it may bolt in OK as-is, you'll just have to see). Either way, you can probably find the fitting you will need. I have done this only on my 5.0L, so the fitting and what the sending unit size is, is the unknown for me. Use a small amount of teflon tape on the treads to make sure they don't leak. The sending unit still needs to touch ground (or make some contact with the threads in the lower intake).

There's a hole in the fire wall on the driver's side that you can route the wire through, but put a grommet in the wire wall so that the fire wall does not gradually eat through the wire over time and ground out.

On my '88, the fuse for the power locks or windows (can't remember which), was hot, but didn't run to anything (and also no fuse). Autoparts stores carry fuse holders that plug into existing fuses locations with an additional wire that will allow you to add the power to the gauge from the fuse box. Solder and shrink wrap (or crimp if that's all you got) the postitve there.

Ground can go to anywhere metal on the chasis..
 
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Where would be a good place to pick one up. Also do the top of the sending units have wires coming out of it or a hose. I looked today and it looked like two things are plugged into manifold. Whatg would be a good brand to trust. :beer:
 
Where would be a good place to pick one up. Also do the top of the sending units have wires coming out of it or a hose. I looked today and it looked like two things are plugged into manifold. Whatg would be a good brand to trust. :beer:

The stock sending units will have wires. Mechanical gauge will have a hose, electrical just a single wire. The sending unit you are looking at is the one on the driver's side with 1 wire. I am using an autometer, haven't really dealt with much else, but it doesn't need to be anything too fancy.
 
Is there a sender which is the electrical connections and a hose goes somewhere right by it? So where does the hose go? Also how would the get the gauge light to turn on at night?:beer:
 
Is there a sender which is the electrical connections and a hose goes somewhere right by it? So where does the hose go? Also how would the get the gauge light to turn on at night?:beer:

You're probably looking at the engine coolant temp sensor on the pass side, leave that one alone. The other coolant temp sender for the gauge is on the drivers side threaded into the upper intake manifold. It is sort of near the coolant neck on the front of the motor, but more to the driver's side. It's points up and has a single wire. If it's 5/8" heater hose, probably for the heater core.

Forgot about the illumination, my dash was a custom, so the wire was right there when I spliced into the old wiring and soldered in a new plug. You'll probably want to get power from the dimmer circuit near the light switch. I'll try and remember to get you the color of wire when I get home, I am not near my EVTM.
 

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