advice on buying a rebuilt engine 2.5 L

[need info]

hello, I have a 2000 4 cylinder 2.5 L manual transmission ranger. I am thinking about having my mechanic put in a rebuilt engine in and he has been searching for a good rebuilt and has not come up with any definite places to purchase one. Any suggestions on who and where to purchase a good rebuilt block engine for a 2000 ranger 2.5 litter? thanks.

 

[RonD]

Why wouldn't you rebuild the one you have?

Then you know what you got.

Rebuild engines have shipping(engines weigh a bit, lol) and warranty does not cover labor and usually only covers shipping it one-way.

So I would ask mechanic what he would do, i.e. pull the head and block out of the truck
And then send BOTH out to a local machine shop to be rebuilt
Then mechanic reassembles after its done
All local, all warrantied locally

Can't be without a vehicle........thats why we have friends, , and you can always rent a car for a week or two as part of the cost.

Rock Auto lists 2.5l Lima long block for $1,600 + $300 core deposit
Long block is rebuilt block and head bolted together ready to install, so just add other bolt on parts, i.e. oil pan, valve cover, water pump, ect...

Master rebuild kit is usually about $500-$600
So if local machine shop comes in at under $700 labor then you are saving money PLUS no shipping cost

 

[need info]

Why wouldn't you rebuild the one you have?

Then you know what you got.

Rebuild engines have shipping(engines weigh a bit, lol) and warranty does not cover labor and usually only covers shipping it one-way.

So I would ask mechanic what he would do, i.e. pull the head and block out of the truck
And then send BOTH out to a local machine shop to be rebuilt
Then mechanic reassembles after its done
All local, all warrantied locally

Can't be without a vehicle........thats why we have friends, , and you can always rent a car for a week or two as part of the cost.

Rock Auto lists 2.5l Lima long block for $1,600 + $300 core deposit
Long block is rebuilt block and head bolted together ready to install, so just add other bolt on parts, i.e. oil pan, valve cover, water pump, ect...

Master rebuild kit is usually about $500-$600
So if local machine shop comes in at under $700 labor then you are saving money PLUS no shipping cost

I agree with you 110%. I did want to to find a place to rebuild, but have not been able to find a trustworthy place so far. In other words I have not been able to find a company who rebuilds typical engines, only high performance. I am kind of going by what my mechanic suggest, but that can change if I decide to. I can find another mechanic its nothing personal or anything, although he put a rebuilt in my van 20 years ago and i never had one single problem for 5 years and then I sold it. I am just assuming he will do another good job. His attitude is "dropping an engine in the ranger is a piece of cake". Well anyway with your good advice I am going to search the buffalo area high and low for a machine shop to rebuild my engine. I would have to ask this mechanic if he is willing to work with me on a machine shop doing the work. I have a second vehicle so that is not a concern. Also I am in no hurry because these Lima engines do run for ever. This one has low miles but is 19 years old and was used on a farm. It sounds like a bucket of rattling nuts and bolts. it goes through oil, without leaks or indication of smoke or smell. Not knowing it looses oil, I ran it down 2 quarts recently for quite a while and it sounded really bad. All and all it is a very nice little truck and it still runs good, just sounds bad especially on acceleration. I wouldn't mind having it around for another 6 years of heavy use, so to pay for a rebuild would be great. thanks your feedback it makes sense to me.

 

[need info]

I found out, it ends up costing more for shops to rebuild (a one off) even with the shipping charge involved on buying a rebuild. who figured! evidently a Jasper engine has a 10 year warranty but they are expensive.

 

[RonD]

Well that is odd, but at least you did the research to know which way to go

 

[need info]

Well that is odd, but at least you did the research to know which way to go

yea i think so. by the way, I could drive this thing until it falls apart and start saving some money for the rebuilt engine in the mean time. Have you had good luck or do you know if the Rock auto engines have a good track record? Thanks for the advice and help. much appreciated.

 

[RonD]

No I wouldn't, never needed to get a new engine.........knock on wood

 

[tomw]

Why not find out what's wrong causing the noise? It may be as simple as needing some replacement valve lifter supports, or cleaning them.
These engines bottom end seems to stay together pretty well, into the hundreds of thousands of miles.
You could have a sticky PCV valve or a clogged PCV system, or even an oil separator that needed to be cleaned causing the oil consumption. Sticking rings can sometimes be loosened with the addition of lighter fractions to the crankcase. Some have remove the spark plugs and poured ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders and let them soak, as the fluid should be able to seep past the ring end gap and go near all ring sets. Some add either or both to the crankcase.
Have you checked the actual oil pressure? If decent, then just replacing the rings could give a significant rejuvenation, or having the cylinder head replaced.
How long since the cam belt was replaced? I do not know later model intervals, but earlier suggested replacing at 60-80k interval(I think).
What kind of noise are you hearing? Have you made a recording, or is the problem more the concern with oil consumption?
tom

 

[Craig0320]

I had close to 300k on my 98 2.5. Got the truck at 130k. All I used was 10w-30 havoline and kept all of the other fluids changed. Only reason I sold it was to get an automatic. It might be worth diving into the noise. It could be something simple you never know. The 2.5's are really good engines.

 

[need info]

Why not find out what's wrong causing the noise?
Have you checked the actual oil pressure? If decent, then just replacing the rings could give a significant rejuvenation, or having the cylinder head replaced.
How long since the cam belt was replaced?
What kind of noise are you hearing? Have you made a recording, or is the problem more the concern with oil consumption?
tom

I appreciate your input and you are most likely correct. The engine has low mileage but the truck was used on a farm and had many short heavy loads. The noise is a heavy rattle during acceleration unless I use high rpm's. without knowing that the engine consumes oil, I ran it 2 quarts low for a long time with many starts ups in the cold winter. It sounded really bad when ever I started it up. Yes I could kick myself, but I am not a mechanic by trade and just did not know better. I been driving good vehicles for many years and never thought of checking the oil, because it had a fresh oil change. Anyway, I think I am going to take your advice in one way or another. I should run the truck and do what I have to to keep it running. Although I am going to start putting some money aside each month and keep that possibility of having a fresh engine and clutch perhaps if I absolutely have to. I think the main problem here is being that I can not do much myself due to lack of experience and paying 95 bucks an hour for a mechanic in my area. It sometimes seems overwhelming because I am semi retired now. I would really like to know a mechanic that can tear apart an engine and fix the engine without paying an arm and a leg. Just buying a long block now starts at about $2200. Thanks for the good advice.

 

[need info]

I had close to 300k on my 98 2.5. Got the truck at 130k. All I used was 10w-30 havoline and kept all of the other fluids changed. Only reason I sold it was to get an automatic. It might be worth diving into the noise. It could be something simple you never know. The 2.5's are really good engines.

Yea, I like this truck allot. I drove many manuals in my day and this one is great. I have read many stories like yours with high mileage and that they run for ever. I should do as you suggest and keep it maintained and fix problems when they break. I have to say that by purchasing this truck I am half way there. I could never see buying a new truck that cost more than my house is worth! you know what I mean. I started thinking that it would really be nice to have a fresh engine and drive around knowing that the trucks engine will outlive me! LOl. Thanks much appreciated sir.

 

[tomw]

I have no idea of your technical/mechanic skills, nor physical capability. I am old, and still do a lot of stuff, but not all can, so I mention this with no animosity.
You can rent a hoist, or buy one, and pull the engine & transmission in about 3-4 hours. If you have skills and a decent set of wrenches. Given both parts coming out, you don't even need long extensions. Just disconnect electric, cooling, driveshaft, shift linkage, and motor mounts - two front, one rear plus crossmeber. Hoist.
Now you have several choices. Used - range from $400 to $2k. car-part dot com will note local listings and prices, along with seller & distance from your zip. Re-man will depend but they are not cheap. A head is $200+ or more, long block over $1k.
If you just took yours apart, replaced the piston rings, maybe the rod & main bearings - check condition of inserts or use Plastigage to get a ballpark clearance - you would have a low mileage engine you know. Given the low mileage, machine work is LIKELY not necessary. The engines go to 300k ... so 19k is barely broken in, but you may have stuck rings from all the short trip/cold running/gunk etc. A good cleaning might do exactly what you need, thus the suggestion of additives to the crankcase.
If you have engine noises, that would suggest finding what's making the noise.
You can even do some of this with the engine still in the truck. IF you can get the oil pan removed w/o pulling the engine. It may be possible by loosening the pan, the front motor mounts, and dropping the oil pump into the pan to gain clearance. Not too sure.
Pistons can come out the top, bearings out the bottom, mains one at a time, leaving the crankshaft in place. I've done it. Pretty fair results in making a noisy engine a lot quieter. Clean pistons and add a new set of rings, maybe touch up the valve seats, and replace the valve guide seals. You can remove, disassemble and clean all the lifter supports - do NOT mix & match the internals - and put them back. Inspect the cam & followers, and put back together. It is just a lot of cleaning with solvent and a parts brush, then maybe hone the cylinders or break the glaze, or not it is arguable ...
Parts less than $500 likely. Your time. If you have the patience and physical capability.
tom

 

[need info]

I have no idea of your technical/mechanic skills, nor physical capability. I am old, and still do a lot of stuff, but not all can, so I mention this with no animosity.
You can rent a hoist, or buy one, and pull the engine & transmission in about 3-4 hours. If you have skills and a decent set of wrenches. Given both parts coming out, you don't even need long extensions. Just disconnect electric, cooling, driveshaft, shift linkage, and motor mounts - two front, one rear plus crossmeber. Hoist.
Now you have several choices. Used - range from $400 to $2k. car-part dot com will note local listings and prices, along with seller & distance from your zip. Re-man will depend but they are not cheap. A head is $200+ or more, long block over $1k.
If you just took yours apart, replaced the piston rings, maybe the rod & main bearings - check condition of inserts or use Plastigage to get a ballpark clearance - you would have a low mileage engine you know. Given the low mileage, machine work is LIKELY not necessary. The engines go to 300k ... so 19k is barely broken in, but you may have stuck rings from all the short trip/cold running/gunk etc. A good cleaning might do exactly what you need, thus the suggestion of additives to the crankcase.
If you have engine noises, that would suggest finding what's making the noise.
You can even do some of this with the engine still in the truck. IF you can get the oil pan removed w/o pulling the engine. It may be possible by loosening the pan, the front motor mounts, and dropping the oil pump into the pan to gain clearance. Not too sure.
Pistons can come out the top, bearings out the bottom, mains one at a time, leaving the crankshaft in place. I've done it. Pretty fair results in making a noisy engine a lot quieter. Clean pistons and add a new set of rings, maybe touch up the valve seats, and replace the valve guide seals. You can remove, disassemble and clean all the lifter supports - do NOT mix & match the internals - and put them back. Inspect the cam & followers, and put back together. It is just a lot of cleaning with solvent and a parts brush, then maybe hone the cylinders or break the glaze, or not it is arguable ...
Parts less than $500 likely. Your time. If you have the patience and physical capability.
tom

Thanks Tom for your feedback and the time you spent giving me the incentive to do some of my own work. I have to consider your sound advice. Much appreciated. Many years ago I restored a couple old cars and have some of the experience.