Advice needed for removing 3.0L engine from Ranger 4x4

[Gar]

I am removing a 3.0L for replacement on a 2000 Ranger 4x4 with the auto transmission. I have removed all of the bolts from the bell housing except for the top bolt on the driver's side. I can see it and I know it is a 15mm bolt but I can not get a wrench on it to apply enough force to break it loose. I have tried a universal joint, socket, penetrating oil and box end wrench with no success. Can anyone give me some advice on this one?

 

[Earl43P]

I haven't done a 3.0 or 4wd, only 2.3 5 speeds, but if you put downward pressure on the crossmember, with it still atached to the trans, you should be able to rotate it downward enough to free up some room. It'll pivot on the engine mounts pretty far. I had my wife step on the crossmember while I broke it loose, using a box end and a sharp jerk.

 

[Big Jim M]

I don't know that particular bolt but many top bolts have come to jesus after I BENT a closed end wrench and got just the correct fit on it to apply leverage with another box end wrench or even a good whack with a BFH..
Big JIm

 

[BARanger]

i reached it by coming in from the top after the intake was off

 

[Psychopete]

I use a ratchet with a swivelling head and get them from the top. IMO Snap-On makes a great one.

Pete

 

[4x4RangerGuy]

Air makes a huge difference. With the engine leaning backwards after removing the tranny xmember, I just used a bunch of extensions and my 1/2in impact to remove them. Takes about 5 minutes that way.

 

[Just_Randy]

I am removing a 3.0L for replacement on a 2000 Ranger 4x4 with the auto transmission. I have removed all of the bolts from the bell housing except for the top bolt on the driver's side. I can see it and I know it is a 15mm bolt but I can not get a wrench on it to apply enough force to break it loose. I have tried a universal joint, socket, penetrating oil and box end wrench with no success. Can anyone give me some advice on this one?

I just went thru this chaning my rear main. My air wrench has 600 ft-lbs in reverse and wouldn't budge it. Both of the top ones were this way. I had to use a breaker bar and 2-3 ft of extensions with a u-joint and come at from under the truck. Even that wouldn't do it without a torch on the block. Your best bet is the long breaker bar and a friend with a torch. Wrench on it hard while the buddy hits it with the heat. The idea is to get the block hot while keeping the bolt cool. Otherwise you might twist the head off the bolt. Also, taking the tranny mount out helps angle the engine back too.

 

[Quiksurf]

i just don't understand, last weekend i did the heads on my 1995 3.0 4x4 in the truck in about 3/4 of a day, whay are you taking bell housing bolts out??????

 

[Quiksurf]

nevermind i'm a jack i missed engine removal, not heads

 

[mfp4073]

Those are best to get to from under the truck with a really long extension and a swivel head. So that the ratchet is behind or beside the transmission.

 

[Gar]

Thanks to all ! I finally achieved success by loosening the tranny crossmember bolts and jacking up the tranny then using a sockett (actually two since I broke the first sockett) with a 3' breaking bar and another 3' extension.