Acceleration issues

[jdm_farmboy]

So recently my BII has developed an acceleration issue; namely, it does not want to accelerate. It bogs down driving up any size hill, and tops out around 50mph. It hasn't bothered me too much because I mostly only drive it around town, but it needs fixed before I head back to college this fall. It has a new clutch from this winter.

I pulled codes on it today and here's what I got.
KOEO
18 (on-demand)
31 (continous and on-demand)
KOER
12 Cannot control RPM during High rpm check
13 Cannot control RPM during low rpm check
18 Erratic IDM input to processor/ Spout circuit grounded
31 EVP circuit below minimum voltage
41 HEGO Sensor indicates system lean

I can identify the 41 code because my O2 sensor might as well not be connected right now.
The 31 code I don't think has anything to do with my poor acceleration.
Is it possible the 18 code is causing the 12 and 13 codes? Also am I going to have to search the entire engine bay for that short in the spout circuit?
I'd really love to run this thing on the highway again, so any help is appreciated.

 

[low_five]

take it up a good size hill that you can safely stop at the top and get out and look under the truck. do it at night and see if your cat is glowing. if so, you have an exhaust restriction. its happening a lot with the older 2.9s in the 2.9 section. there is only one thing that controls the idle, and it is named (aptly) the idle air controller. its the tube shaped thing hanging off the passenger side of your intake. you can try to clean it or replace it. are you having idle troubles? does your truck idle abnormally high? i dont know about the code 18, but it doesnt look great. might check the wiring, because the spout is in the same general area as the idle air controller. check for bare, burnt or cracked wiring on the passenger side of the engine.

good luck

 

[low_five]

the more I think about it, the more I think youre exhuast is getting hot and melting wires on that side of the engine. might have also burned up the o2 sensor wire.

at least, sitting here on the internet, thats what I would check out.

 

[feellnfroggy]

The spout plug controls the timing. If you have a problem with that then 90% of the time the engine reverts to safe mode and runs 10* TIMING. I would find your spout connector and check all the wiring and follow it around looking for a problem. 10* will screw with your acceleration as well as your torque output. As far as the rpm thing the only thing I can think of is that running 10* is similar to running rich and in open circuit. All emission shuts off at idle and wide open throttle i believe. Find the spout problem and maybe you will be able to eliminate other codes.

 

[jdm_farmboy]

The spout plug controls the timing. If you have a problem with that then 90% of the time the engine reverts to safe mode and runs 10* TIMING. I would find your spout connector and check all the wiring and follow it around looking for a problem. 10* will screw with your acceleration as well as your torque output. As far as the rpm thing the only thing I can think of is that running 10* is similar to running rich and in open circuit. All emission shuts off at idle and wide open throttle i believe. Find the spout problem and maybe you will be able to eliminate other codes.

That's what I was thinking too, I just need to find the Spout and track it back. The trucks got a younger cat on it, so I don't think that's it, I've been through that once already, but I will check the wires on the passenger side for any melted wires while I'm crawling on top of the engine.

 

[low_five]

thats cool, but dont rule out a clogged muffler too. there are baffles in there that can come loose and plug things up.

 

[crusin93]

The spout plug controls the timing. If you have a problem with that then 90% of the time the engine reverts to safe mode and runs 10* TIMING. I would find your spout connector and check all the wiring and follow it around looking for a problem. 10* will screw with your acceleration as well as your torque output. As far as the rpm thing the only thing I can think of is that running 10* is similar to running rich and in open circuit. All emission shuts off at idle and wide open throttle i believe. Find the spout problem and maybe you will be able to eliminate other codes.

I aggree 100%. To quickly determine if you are getting any ignition advance, hook up a timing light set it to zero. Point it at the balancer marks and sweep through the rpm range idle- 3500 rpm. The numbers on the balancer should increase as the rpm's go up and back down at idle. The spout connector itself may be the problem.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

spout is probably not plugged in or not making a connection make sure the pins are pushed all the way in if you still have problems with upper end power check the knock sensor, Have someone tap on the block next to the starter while to have the timing light on and see if the timing retards with the tapping

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If the spout wire is good going to the computer then it could possibly be the computer itself. erase the memory then disconnect the battery for 15 mins to reset the computer while your checking the O-2 wires and the knock sensor wires on the block next to the starter. Then take it for a drive at med speeds up to operating temp and retest it hot both KOEO first then KOER.

 

[feellnfroggy]

spout is probably not plugged in or not making a connection make sure the pins are pushed all the way in if you still have problems with upper end power check the knock sensor, Have someone tap on the block next to the starter while to have the timing light on and see if the timing retards with the tapping

Thats a helluva idea, I never thought about creating a knock situation to check timing,LOL.

 

[jdm_farmboy]

I decided to check the timing after messing with the spout connector, it was over 30 BTDC, got it timed back to 10, and its all better now Probably got nudged at some point during the clutch change a while ago.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Isnt it nice when it is something that simple and cheap.