ABS Light

[Hetzi]

I replaced all rotors, pads, and bearings on my 2011 Ranger 4x2. After doing that I got an ABS-Traction Control light on. Scanned it and says C1296 left front sensor fault. Replaced that sensor 3 times. Light still on. Thought tone ring on the rotor may be not right, replaced rotor. Light still on. Thought maybe wheel bearing and torque play wrong, replaced bearing again, torqued nut to spec. Light still on. Light stays off under 55mph. Over that comes on. Checked continuity on harness, OK. Thought that ABS module was the final problem. Replaced that. Light still on. Any thoughts of this problem?

 

[Dirtman]

Did you buy motorcraft rotors?

 

[Hetzi]

No they were rotors from previous auto parts. Why would it just be the left front and not both? I am a ASE Master Certified Technician and have done hundreds of brake jobs and cannot figure out why this one is a pain in the butt.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Have you looked at live data?

 

[Hetzi]

No they were rotors from previous auto parts. Why would it just be the left front and not both? I am a ASE Master Certified Technician and have done hundreds of brake jobs and cannot figure out why this one is a pain in the butt.

 

[Hetzi]

[QUOTE="Hetzi, post: 1720934, member: 107533"
Oreillys not previous

 

[Hetzi]

Have you looked at live data?

No I don't have that capability. Used to have a Masters that could.

 

[Hetzi]

No I don't have that capability. Used to have a Masters that could.

Maxysys not Masters

 

[Hetzi]

Maxysys not Masters

Have Fluke oscilloscope. Sensor reading square wave OK.

 

[Hetzi]

I never touched the ABS to begin with or any sensor or anything electrical. I just don't understand why changing the wheel bearings rotors and pads would make the light come on. After changing the ABS module this time it stays on all the time. The original ABS module would stay off under 55 miles per hour. If you went over that after a few minutes it would come on.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Are you sure you aren't dealing with a damaged connector at the wheel speed sensor? Cause it wasn't broke until you fixed it.

Just scan tool live data... I'm not certain of the criteria for setting that DTC... but it may have a 55mph threshold. Go above 55 and have that sensor be out of whack... comparatively… it turns the light on. You should see that issue in the data. At slower speeds... will the ABS pump come on slowing down say below 8 to 10 mph?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

@Dirtman
That's not helpful in the least. If you don't have an answer keep out.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Agreed... lets just keep this about helping a fella out. We've all been there...

 

[pjtoledo]

Have Fluke oscilloscope. Sensor reading square wave OK.

put the O'scope on and monitor as you turn the wheel slowly by hand.
then compare to the other wheel at same speed.
if the amplitude is different try moving the trigger ring closer to the sensor to increase it.