ABS fuse removed - months later brakes are locking up

[djsquires2]

Hello all. Nice forum. I searched for a similar problem as mine but no luck. So, I have a 2001 Mazda B4000, Over a year ago I had the problem where periodically I would lose all pressure to my brakes (peddle would go to the floor) and the truck would only "slow" down. My mechanic told me it was the ABS sensor/module (or something like that) and said to remove the fuse, this would eliminate the $700 sensor cost. I removed the fuse and my brakes were great, good as new. Well a few months ago a new problem started, my brakes are now locking up at the slightest touch of the peddle. Its not always like this, maybe 75% of the time. I would like to get some ideas what to check/replace before going to the mechanic again. The shoes/pads/rotors/drums have all been replaced in the last 12 months. A month ago i pulled the drums and all looks fine in there and have adjusted. In the past 12 months the truck has cost me an arm and a leg with upper and lower control arms/balljoints, full brake job, main x-member replacement (rusted through) and now this..............

Sorry to be so long winded. I would appreciate your help.

thanks

 

[fordboi415]

You removed the fuse that provides power to the system that prevents lock ups, replace whatever is wrong with your abs, put the fuse back in and your problem will have subsided, its basically locking up cuz you have no abs with the removed fuse! Lol

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

while i agree you should fix the ABS properly, not by pulling the fuse, the brakes should not be locking up at the slightest touch of the pedal unless he is on ice or snow.

is this the front, back, or both ends giving you problems?

did the problem start before or after the pads and shoes were replaced? i ask because certain shoes have a bad habbit of absorbing moisture and swelling up over night, causing the brakes to be very touchy in the morning until they get warmed up and dry out. ford trucks are also notorious for warping the rear drums, but that usually causes touchy rear brakes all the time.

 

[thegoat4]

First, find out which wheels. Go find some dirt to drive on and hit your brakes in whatever way is causing the lockup. Get out and see which wheels left skids and which did not. The longest skids will be from the wheels locking up first.

Pedal dropping and your truck slowing without braking hard is consistent with ABS kicking in and working as it should when a brake locks up. It is possible that your mechanic misdiagnosed the problem and your fully functional ABS was compensating for an existing problem. Now that problem has grown in severity to the point that you notice it.

Stick the fuse in and repeat the dirt test.

It is also possible that whoever did the brake job made a mistake or overlooked something that needed to be addressed.

 

[djsquires2]

Thanks Guys, When I first had the abs problem the truck would actually NOT stop. Pulling into a parking lot, or coming to a red light, a few times I would need to throw the truck up in park or hit what was in front of me. Then removal of the fuse fixed it. One thing I forgot to mention was a couple months after I removed the fuse I found that the rear brakes were not catching at all, I would brake hard and the fronts would do all the stopping. I know the fronts do 90% of the work but when doing the "dirt" test (I did it in snow) the back wheels would not stop rotating while the fronts were locked. This is when I took the truck to the shop and he replaced the brakes. Well things were fine after that until this touchy pedal thing. I haven't done the dirt test with this new problem. So the touchy pedal started months after brake installation. And I trust the mechanic, have known him for years and know he does excellent work. But I am not saying he didn't miss something. And I'll have to check into what shoes he installed, I know he put on "good" ones and if memory serves me correct they have lifetime warranty.

So, with abs, I assume there is a sensor on each wheel? If a wheel was locking up then it would be that sensor to look at? Is there a master control for the abs system? I did some looking on the net and found sensors for $89. So I am wondering what the $700 part could have been.

 

[Jspafford]

You removed the fuse that provides power to the system that prevents lock ups, replace whatever is wrong with your abs, put the fuse back in and your problem will have subsided, its basically locking up cuz you have no abs with the removed fuse! Lol

While that makes some sense, it's not real helpful.

I am assuming you have drum brakes in the rear.. Do all 4 tires lock or just the rear?

The front ABS uses a sensor on each wheel, however the rear uses one sensor for both wheels.

 

[Earl43P]

Exactly.

One sensor for each front wheel, one on the pumpkin.

Gonna be less than $200 for all three (if you do the labor - super easy).

You can use the parking brake to test-stop a few times (hold the release handle). That'll tell you if the problem is in the rear brakes. Rears tend to hold moisture and stick to the rusty drum - very common. Usually goes away after one or two good stops, if your rears are adjusted properly.



I gotta disagree with one point. When ABS engages, the pedal should NEVER go down any further than you pressed it and NEVER near the floor. I "get into" the ABS nearly every day, and absolutely every rainy day, and my 2000's brake pedal NEVER acts like he described. NOWHERE NEAR THE FLOOR, EVER. Pedal to floor = master cylinder problem, not ABS.

 

[jrboatin]

Check out my tread......



http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29498



Where is fuse for ABS unit located at?

 

[djsquires2]

I'm not so sure if all 4 wheels lock up. I am currently offshore and can't check. Also, not able to use e-brake for any tests as the cable is seized. If the parts are only going to be $200 and easy to install I will have a go at it when I get home.

 

[djsquires2]

A for jrboatin question, as the posts on your thread said, the fuse was located in the panel on the left side of the steering wheel in the lower part of the dash. I don't know what fuse # it was off hand sorry

 

[thegoat4]

I'm not so sure if all 4 wheels lock up. I am currently offshore and can't check. Also, not able to use e-brake for any tests as the cable is seized. If the parts are only going to be $200 and easy to install I will have a go at it when I get home.

Well, the e-brake problem is the root of things. If you never use your e-brake, your drum brakes will not adjust fro wear and you will throw too much load onto your front brakes. You will also mash your pedal to the floor before building enough pressure in the front brakes to do anything when your rears are way out of adjustment.

Your e-brake is part of your brake system and needs to be working and your mechanic should have told you so.

Don't waste money on sensors you probably don't need--get your e-brake fixed and your drum brakes adjusted up.

 

[04 EDGE]

And I trust the mechanic, have known him for years and know he does excellent work. But I am not saying he didn't miss something.

theres your answer

he suggested you pull the fuse. find a new mechanic.

 

[pimtool]

If its the rear brakes grabbing, I would almost bet dollars to donuts the wheel cylinders are leaking. Fluid on the brake shoes will make them grab like you wouldnt believe.

Or if its just in the morning, brake dust in the drums and out of adjustment shoes will also tend to grab until they are used a few times and warmed up.

 

[djsquires2]

I am thinking it may be due to moisture. My girlfriend is using the truck now and tells me after about 20 minutes of driving and using the brake often (traffic, stop lights, etc) the locking up does not happen. But then when she gets out of school and on the way home the problem is back again for another 20 minutes or so.

When I had the issue last year of the rears not grabbing I removed the drums for inspection. Everything was wet (water not oil, I am sure of this). I was told then that these trucks are famous for moisture in the rear brakes (lots of rain in my area). Anyway, thats when I had the brakes done.

I know without the E-brake working the auto adjusters will not work but I do manual adjustment every so often. I did it about 5 weeks ago and made no difference. I lost use of my e-brake about 5 or 6 years ago due to the shoe hardware rusting appart and seized cable.

But thank you all for your input.

 

[Bent Bolt]

theres your answer

he suggested you pull the fuse. find a new mechanic.

Beat me to it.